Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

[Blacky]

Bring it on

[rosco]

Someone's been busy, how many finger prints left, Clay?

It's taking shape.... did the wipe on guide coat stick hard enough so that you could block down the highs without it rubbing off the mids and lows without any pressure on them? I'm pretty keen to track this product down - compared to mixing up some sub-frame black or duxone - this would save me a lot of time.... and, can be applied easily to go deeper with the blocking down for those lows which take more to dig out...
Ultimately, a final "smear" with just one wipe to remove would be my indication that I'm ready to shoot color... this product appears to be capable of that "smear"...

I might suggest having a go at blocking the large flat areas with a larger block... but one of about the same hardness of the cork you are using.
I have had great success using a rubbing block made of plastic, with a spring clamp at each end. The "pad" is made of very "thin" foam rubber, but it is not what I'd call "soft"... it will "just" follow a contour - but is hard enough to take out high spots around a low - and hard enough to prevent "dips" in straight lines. I use this block on large panels only... probably holds about 1/3 sheet...
I found rubbing this larger block in a small number of differing angle passes produced the best result.
I would rub "along" a couple of times, then run "cross hatch" a couple 45 deg "up" then 45 deg" down - then go back to along the panel.
This way, if there was any contour, the cross hatch rub would follow the contour - rather than create a hex.

I do like using large round pipe for those concave curves... again, straight and cross hatching... I like to "roll" the pipe as I cross hatch along the curve as well... it seems to bring the very best line out of the valley of a curved channel etc.....

Rubbing along every third pattern helps to prevent "dips" in a panel.... guide coat is your friend - and so too are your fingers and eyes.
Looking a long the panel "wet" against some object in the reflection reveals an awful lot.... you know all this.

Once you learn to look at paint like this, even what many appear as good paint/body work jobs look soured... it's a burden you place on yourself for life - I simply can't prevent myself from doing this... even with new cars....

It is very easy to forget the purpose of primer... and almost "polish" it up before colour coats.... I made this mistake once, and paid for it.... chipping.... it's ok to have a gloss look when it's wet.. but if rubbed that fine dry - is a potential failure in waiting...

You know all this, Clay - but for any newbie or anyone with thoughts of doing a paint job for the first time... I believe posting here both explains part of the process, and also reveals the work involved - as evidenced by your pix.....

Like to see a pic or two of the rubbing process with this wipe on guide coat "revealing" your rubbing....

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

I'm a newbie really at this painting. I do have an eye for the surfaces though. The 400 has put somewhat if a sheen on it and paint man says go to 600. This makes it easier to see any waves and must say I'm pleasantly surprised. It does concern me that the paint won't stick so well. This is acrylic so maybe the thinners will help there.

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[EK283]

Looking good Clay,

Rosco has pretty much summed it up. The only thing is that 400 may show scratch marks in the top coat so 600 is probably a safer bet.

The thinners in the top coat will soften the primer and bite a little, just make sure you wax and grease all the panels before the topcoat as well.

Regards Greg

[Errol62]

Yes thanks fellas. Wax and grease yes and metal prep on the primer sand throughs to bare metal.

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[Errol62]

I'm not sure about using the guide chalk with wet rubbing. Been using a plastic chamois to clean off the sanding residue and maybe that tends to take the chalk off to an extent.

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[Errol62]

Had to bite the bullet and back peddle. Now I'm going for a bit of polyester over epoxy. I managed to ignore this large low spot prior to the epoxy application.

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[Errol62]

Needs a mm of filler

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[Errol62]

The old timber venetians come in handy, and the tea stirers from work.

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[Errol62]

I may have to touch up with etch prime.

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[Errol62]

Touched up sand thrus, including smaller ones with a brush. Have to wait 24 hours before I can feather and key for more surfacer.

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[Errol62]

Meanwhile thought I'd give the column a qtu. Using up left over 2k etch from this morning's job. Four hour old mix. Just usable.

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[Errol62]

I'm still deciding on colour for door reveal trims and column. Honey pot will be clinker grey to match the dash and blend with the wheel. I got some 2k one shot metallic silver to do the tank. Will see how it looks maybe use on column if it's not too light.

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[rosco]

Arghhh.. the work, Clay - how quickly I forget how much is involved... you wore me out thinking about it...

If it is of any help, Roger H told me to spray the steering column and honeypot in "Monument".... can't remember the brand name, but it's readily available at Bunnings... I'll go out to the garage shortly and find the can... it came up really good for an aerosol... satin finish, just like the original.

See if I can find some pix too..

I'll add (if you don't mind) a pic of my rear quarter panel when I was blocking down - you'll see 100 different shades/colours and hues of differing paints... each one of them, another spray and block.... it was almost a shame to run plain old grey primer over the end result before colour coating...

It might not mean much at present, but when you come to look at this creation when you have run the last of your top coats over it - "you" will know what underneath.... most people don't.. they simply think its the top coat of color where all the work is.... ignorance is bliss - literally....

Great work - keep going... and, thanks for the progress pix.. I do like to see what others are doing - not just the end result...

1mm is probably a bit too much to expect a spray filler to cope with.. especially acrylic... it will "shrink" in years to come - and some of your effort will be lost... this is why I want now to go to 2K primer/filler... it will go rock hard in less than 24 hours and I won't have shrinkage issues in 10 years time...
I'll have to run coat of something to marry the 2K to the acrylic primer - this I do understand...

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

Acrylic primer will stick to the outer 2k just fine as long as it's keyed. So I'm told a nd I bloody hope so as that's what I'm doing right now.

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