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Had to relocate the mounts as the driveline was sitting too high at front, causing the extension housing to foul the handbrake crossmember.

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Ok, I didn't have that problem with mine.... I had to weld the handbrake frame onto the Rare's transmission mount... It had a "generous" aperture to pass everything through it.
The first attempt to fit the engine gearbox assembly was done with this in situ - and we simply couldn't get it in. The next day, I removed the rear mount and the assembly went in easily.... then the rear mount assembly was fitted.

I note you have left the grey motor rear engine/transmission mounts in place... any reason for this Clay?
If you have to fit a chassis rail kit for engineering requirements - the "paddles" of that kit will mount into the three holes.....

It might be worth mentioning to spray some fishoil liberally into the gap between firewall/body and the sub-frame... there are abundant crevices just waiting to collect small stones, sticks and the like to trap crud between the two.

Sadly, by lowering the engine mounts - the compromise is that you will also lower the sump towards the draglink centre bar.
I'm surprised that some clever and entrepeneuristic engineering firm has not made available a HR draglink centre bar with reversed bend... they would sell a zillion of them.
Of course, in modern times - many have opted for rack and pinion...

frats,
Rosco

I'm running original crash box rosco, that's why. I dont want to cut the floor or put buckets in this one. I've had the subframe off, painted and mastic glued back together.

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Started painting body in 1k primer surfacer filler and I'm wondering why I didn't start with something simpler. All keyed 240 and 180 the older Epotec. Some of the metalfix I didn't bother, but all cleaned with w and g remover. This tends to act as a solvent on the metalfix so I hope it will be okay.

I mixed up a litre 4 parts to three thinners and got 3/4 way through first coat. A lot of overspray and wondering if I have the settings correct. Low pressure gravity 2.0mm tip 2.5 turns out and full fan. I seemed to be in a cloud and now have bit of a head ache. I will change the filter and press on. Was thinking to get four coats on the important bits. I'm wondering if I can spray subsequent coats over the dry previous coat as not sure I can get all four coats on this afternoon.

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Errol62 wrote: Thu Mar 05, 2020 5:44 pm Started painting body in 1k primer surfacer filler and I'm wondering why I didn't start with something simpler. All keyed 240 and 180 the older Epotec. Some of the metalfix I didn't bother, but all cleaned with w and g remover. This tends to act as a solvent on the metalfix so I hope it will be okay.

I mixed up a litre 4 parts to three thinners and got 3/4 way through first coat. A lot of overspray and wondering if I have the settings correct. Low pressure gravity 2.0mm tip 2.5 turns out and full fan. I seemed to be in a cloud and now have bit of a head ache. I will change the filter and press on. Was thinking to get four coats on the important bits. I'm wondering if I can spray subsequent coats over the dry previous coat as not sure I can get all four coats on this afternoon.

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Hi Clay,
What pressure is at your gun ? I have a gauge the clips on the gun to set it as the regulator pressure can be different to the gun pressure at the end of the line. I use 30-40 psi in a gravity fed gun at the gun and 2mm tip.
Headache ? Use some new filters and turn a fan on or something to disperse the stuff. You could try less thinners which will give you a heavier coat and less overspray. Its practice makes perfect !!
1K will dissolve and key to a point with the next top coat as its thinners based and will still be "wet" for some time.(Its why I don't like it as its always moving! Personal preference).Sanding will help it key as well if your keen !!!!!!

Regards Greg

Thanks greg for the prompt reply. Reassuring information. 25psi at gun. Got another coat on and didn't notice the overspray nearly as much this time. Changed the filter and all good. I'm up for a couple more coats now but I'll Google the flash off time I think.

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9 minutes flash off. Back to it.

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The fun part is done. Used at least 2 litres.

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Errol62 wrote: Thu Mar 05, 2020 11:02 am I'm running original crash box rosco, that's why. I dont want to cut the floor or put buckets in this one. I've had the subframe off, painted and mastic glued back together.

That'd do it, Clay - red motor only.... four engine mounts. Depending on size of motor, you might get away without engineering.
As I recall, there were a number of engine/trans mount options - the odd ball was the EJ... from memory, it had the grey motor front mount and also a way of fitting the alloy bell housing rear ones... long time back, can't remember exactly how it went. EH was when things changed from engine mounts on the crossmember.
From what is still resident of my fading memory, it was possible to have five engine mounts in an EJ...

My suspicion was that the EJ was actually intended to get the red motor.. but ended up with the grey. I also am led to believe that some EJ's came out of the factory after the EH was released with a red in them.... all hearsay, I have no evidence. Maybe we need another famous "myth busting" thread to seal this one up forever too... jury is still out on the HR disc wheels one again, apparently...

Keep going, every piece brings us closer to seeing this creation come to completion...

frats,
Rosco

Your paint looks good to me, Clay - I do things a little different with 1K primer.
My mix is 2:1.... 2 paint, 1 thinners - it needed a bit of pressure to lay it down and went on pretty thick - but primer is always going to be sanded back anyway.
From memory, the last big panel I did was the roof.... I put a lot of primer coats on that, blocking down between each of them and using "guide coat" to find the highs and lows... almost all of the primer was rubbed off.. but I got the result I was looking for before laying down many top coats with blocking back twice in between the three sessions.

I too, have an adjustable regulator at the gun end of the hose... a long hard drawn copper supply line between the compressor and house regulator, then an almost equal length of flexible air line allows excellent recovery... short lines from compressor to gun are deadly when you are trying to get a consistent volume and pressure of air from the gun.. the long hard drawn copper line also affords the air to cool, condense and any condensate to flow back to a drain valve at the compressor connection..... I use two regulator/driers as well... one on the compressor - and one at the flexible hose connection... I have never had issues with a "dribbling" in my paint since effecting this system. The hard drawn copper slopes downward slightly for the entire length.. along one side of the garage, across the rear and half way back up the other side.. then a vertical drop to the second regulator.

Spraying thicker paint has a trade off - it leaves a roughish surface... but it doesn't seem to mist as much and also doesn't penetrate the previous coat so deeply... it has to be kept wet when spraying... and for me, this is all needle/pressure and distance related... I can't tell you what to use - there are too many variables.. but, once I get the result I want - I write it down for that particular gun.. paint mix, temp, humidity, pressure etc.... it is generally pretty close the next time I want to repeat the same spray job.....

You have a lot of rubbing ahead of you now... I'm guessing you'll guide coat some of it to get that mirror finish in the top coats... much of it will just be a blocking down... in places where such a finish is simply not a priority...

Keep going, starting to take shape... I can see "finish" in this appearing now....

frats,
Rosco

Guide chalk

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Ok - haven't heard of this one... basically a wipe on guide coat I expect.... great to be able to use it as you block down.

Keen to see some "action" pix, Clay....

Most people who I have seen make mistakes with blocking down, do so by using too soft a block... I did this with my boot, the first time I sprayed acrylic. I used a "color block"... which was basically a soft sponge... it simply did not "work" the panel down to a flat finish.. left ripples in it which I have just recently re-visited...

My practice now is to use as hard a block as will follow the contour... I have even used steel sheet on perfectly flat panel sections to get that mirror finish...
I built up an arsenal of differing blocking pads... made many up myself for purpose... large dowel rod was one favorite I used for some of the harder compound curves in our vehicles.... the boot side of the fins being one of those. Plastic plumbing pipe in varying sizes are others, with the ends chamfered..

I am keen to see progress of your work blocking down, Clay... please post regular pix as you go....

frats,
Rosco

Ok, action shots. Surprised and happy with how roof and drivers quarter have come up. Few pin holes in the roof is about it. I am just using traditional cork block 1/3 sheet every wet rub. Fingers for the concaves. A few minor sand throughs to the etch prime.

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The dash top needs work. I didn't strip it, that's why. Bottom rear left has a couple wee dints I missed. Sill panels need more paint. Next coats will be on stands.

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Ready for more paint

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