fbekholden.com

Sweet !!

Greg

Thinking about these lowering blocks and noting the rear axle is HR, I would need to include spacers between the bolt up surfaces to maintain the design limit on compression of the sandwich rubbers. This would amount to a bit of extra work, and weight.

Roger has given me some U-bolts but I am undecided whether to use them or just get longer bolts.

I have thought of a couple of alternative solutions. I could forget about the spacers, and use the U-bolts, possibly with FE EH bottom plates, which are much more substantial. Another idea would be to use fully threaded bolts with extra nuts between the two plates to limit compression. I may be overthinking this of course. I wouldn’t be surprised if most people lowering their HRs just throw in the blocks with longer bolts.

While I had the arse in the air I confirmed the drive ratio. The flange seal guard has 3.36 stamped in it but also has 3.08 LSD etched by hand. 40 turns of the tail shaft equated to exactly 13 of both rear wheels confirming 3.08:1 ratio. Being an LSD made the test relatively easy as both wheels turn together.


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Also, the blocks I have will not engage in the hole in the underside of the HR spring saddle, which is smaller than the FE EH hole. I suppose I will file down the lug on the top of the block so it fits in the hole.

Maybe I shout pull out the springs and cold re-set them in the press as I did with the ute. I could use the inverted eye springs I got from Greg, but I would need to change the sway bar if I did.


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Looking on line I see this type of bar mounted under the spring. Will look at that down the track to eliminate the fouling with passengers in the back seat.


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Becomes apparent lowering blocks will cause the bar to foul the shockers unless I space the bar mountings on the axle down a corresponding amount. I can either re-set the springs and attach the bar on the under sides, or use the blocks and change the bar. I have a body mount one stashed for the van.


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i've put blocks in a million times used the U bolts that came with them or U bolts i had not changed a thing not used spacers or nuts or bolts or anything out of the ordinary, never had to file anything, never had an issue and drive my cars like i stole them

Yer, ok. Never been a fan of the things but yeh….


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Errol62 wrote: Sun Jan 12, 2025 12:47 am Yer, ok. Never been a fan of the things but yeh….

seem to get a better ride with reset but they will no doubt cause you exhaust issues (reset springs) as it brings the spring up closer to the body, end of the day though doesn't make a huge difference in my cars the rear is usually that low it only has about an inch of travel at best

Yes. And the sway bar is affected either way. I’m going to use the blocks because of the exhaust and also because I can’t be bothered pulling the springs off. I will probably take the bar off although I may be able to play around with it. I can put the body mount bar on that I got from fb delivery and was saving from my van. The spring mount bar should work mounted underneath lowered springs okay, and I can use it on the van, possibly even with the reverse eye springs from EK283.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

i'm pretty sure the EK i have at the moment has the same sway bar set up and it has blocks in it

Got the blocks in today. I had to take the bar off as it was fouling the bottom of the shocks. I will have a play in the morning and see if I can get it in with the ends under slung rather than on top of the springs. I had to trim down the knobs on the top of the blocks from 1” to 13/16” so they would sit up in the holes in the saddles.


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No way I can see the current sway bar working with the lowering blocks.

Went for a cautious run and could hear some serious clunking sounds when powering on and off. Back on stands and I can’t pick anything obvious.
I know that HD HR utes have spacers to make up for the thicker spring packs so that the plates nip up together, so I made up these 1.5” spacers.
No more clunking.
Went for a run up the hill and down the highway. There is a slight but noticeable increase in understeer without the rear bar, making cornering a bit heavier. Then I remembered that I have just added about a degree of caster by lowering the back 1.5”.

Measured the driveline angles. Engine is up 6 degrees and pinion only 3 degrees. This explains a slight vibration at highway speed when off the pedal. I will keep an eye on it but if necessary I can probably shave a bit off the back of the spacers to correct this.


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rubber should be above block not under

Thanks. I did wonder about that. It would explain the clunking and eliminate the need for the spacers. My concern was that the top of the block won’t locate in the rubber. Tomorrow is another day.


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