fbekholden.com

Ideally you would use the three wire on sedan or wagon but the six wire will work on the sedan. Just don’t use the reverse light circuit, but run a separate feed direct from switch to reverse lights.

The three wire type will work on ute except you won’t be able to use the rear indicators as reverse lights. Ideally use the six wire.

I may have a spare three wire here if required.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

These are the inner upper and lower wishbone seals from Rares: kit PSK1003.
Can anyone tell me which seal goes where- please!!
I'm thinking that each kit does one side?
Many thanks


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Ok. I've done a bit of research
I think there are both inners and outers and enough for both L&R sides? The kit is called " pivot seal set ...upper and lower INNER control pivot pin bush".

I think the cone shaped ones are lower inners and cone faces inwards?
I think the flat wide ones are top inners?
I think the flat thin ones are bottom outers (steering knuckle)?
I think the grooved ones are upper outside (steering knuckle) ones ?

Is this right?

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I think you’ve got it. Definitely both sides, inner and outer. I think the conical ends face outwards, away from the crossmember. They fill with grease extruded from the bush ends.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Many thanks Clay. Felt like a goose not knowing, but nothing left of old ones and wasn't sure from the manual.

Rob will be more informed as haven't played with the original fronts a great deal.

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Brett,

The third row down is the upper outer pivot pin seals, even though my master-parts catalogue says 7402842.
The bottom row is the lower outer pivot pin seals. Should be about 5/8" ID, and say 3/16" square section.

Master parts catalogue says FX-FJ lower inner and FE upper inner seals are 7408962, while FE lower inner seal is 7408957.

The conical ones (second row down) were sold to me as HR lower inner. I fitted them to my FC lower control arms when I rebuilt the front suspension, and they've now split.

The top row I'd use for lower inner. If the upper control arm shafts are smaller diameter than the lower control arm shafts, you could use the conical ones there, but I'd be inclined to buy two sets of seals and use the straight ones both top and bottom, inner.

Clay has a later master parts book than mine. Any insights?

Rob

Many thanks Rob.

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The exploded diagram for the front suspension suggests that the upper inner seals are shorter than the lower inner seals; but both of them are tubular. After my FC experience, I'm suspicious of the conical ones. But it is probably considered butcherous to improvise seals out of 5/8" or 3/4" heater hose.

Rob

Heater hose sounds ok to me. Would last forever. I'll look into it, particularly for the inners which I am hoping not to have to touch again. Thanks again Rob, and you too Clay. Tomorrows job while I'm waiting for steering wheel paint coats to dry. Thank goodness for heat lights. Snow here tomorrow

FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Thanks Clay, thats what I had a look at in my research, but it's #32 that I can't see in the kit. It looks to be at least an inch long? By the way, where do the 45degree grease nipples belong?

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The 45-degree grease nipples go wherever needed. I'd suggest them at the rear upper control arm bushes, also at the front upper control arm bushes if needed for easy grease gun access, and the rear lower control arm bushes (or even 90-degree grease nipples here).

Part 32 of the exploded diagram has been superseded in the Rare Spares kit by the conical seal. Heater hose cut to length instead?

Rob

Purchased some 3/4 heater hose to make bottom inner seals. Worked a treat and will last for yonks.
Not a good day in the shed today. Driver's side lower wishbone would not torque up and revealed an absence of thread. Fortunately yellow ute had a good one, so a few hours of dissasembly, sandblasting, priming and painting later a replacement is ready for tomorrow. This time I test torqued up the bushes before making it pretty. Its a fiddly job setting the wishbones, made a little harder by not having the factory spacers, but improvisation with a piece of steel and a lot of measuring and I think they are going on ok.
Picture of Wilma's revenge.

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Bush Mechanics 101 -

What you do here is peen the return inwards with a big pin-punch to shrink the hole down and re-install the bush. As long as you can torque the bush up to 35 lb-ft. on the control arm, all will be good.

The Rare Spares control arm bushes are oversize on the outer threads, and are fording tight to install.

The other trick is to start one bush into the control arm, making certain to pick up the external thread correctly; then start the other bush. If you're lucky, the external thread will index correctly. If it doesn't (the end of the control arm will bend inwards as you wind the bush in), unscrew the bush until the external thread disengages, then lever the end of the control arm outwards a little. You'll feel the external thread engage, and all will be good. Lube everything up well with gear oil before installing the bushes, though.

Rob