harvs ek 327 wagon

[Harv]

Engineering booked in for Tuesday 17th. Basic visual, and perhaps a squirt up the road.

Full brake test to follow once the trim is in.

Wish me luck

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

It's a cinch Harv


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[Harv]

Doing some thinking about the indicators in the wagon . They are all LED globes, which require a fancy LED flasher can. The flasher can is full of electronic sorcery, instead of the old thermal switch that the EK originally came out with. The LEDs are nice and bright, but the flasher can annoys me.

The electronic sorcery means that the indicators no longer make the "click, click, click" noise when they are on. I have the attention span of a goldfish , and reckon I could drive a long way with an indicator accidentally flashing. I really want that "click, click, click" noise back.

Some Googling shows that there are companies that make warning alarms for indicators, but I don't want to buy something that sounds annoyingly electronic, or is at 110 decibels. I have nightmares of the soft, repetitive bonging noise that comes when you leave some modern car doors open. I just want the simple "click, click, click" noise.

What I am thinking is to take the +12V power lead for the indicators (the one that feeds the flasher can), and run it through the switch side of a normal 25A relay (the little square black box things that you use for driving lights). The flasher can will turn the power on and off, making the relay open and close (that should give me the "click, click, click" noise). The power side of the relay I will leave unconnected.

Is there a simpler (or neater) way to do this?

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

Use incandescent globes?


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[Errol62]

Sorry, couldn't help myself.


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[EK283]

Hi Harv,

You need the output wire from the flasher can, the wire that goes to the blinkers lights, then to the coil side of the relay +ve and then to ground -ve anywhere under the dash. This will pull the relay in and out matching the flash !

Regards Greg

[Harv]

The input wire to the can turns on and off, same as the outlet wire.

I'm figuring:
+12V from fusebox to (+ coil) side of relay.
(- coil) side of relay to flasher can.

Cheers,
Harv

[BILLY BLACKARROW]

Hi harv
There is a resistor that you can buy that lets you use your original flasher can
so it will go click click click as before. I know you have bought the new can plus the one that didn't bounce so maybe you don't want any more cost


Load Resistor:

2 pieces of 50W 6 Ohm Load Resistor for Auto LED lighting lamp
Fix blinker flash error, hyper or error flashing of LED turn signal, parking / driving running light or license plate light
It works as warning canceller, decoder, capacitor, or blinker rapid Flash Equalizer for LED light bulb such as 1156, 1157, 3156, 3157, 7440, 7443 or etc.
Size: ~50mm (~1.97 inches) total length from end to end

BILLY

[Errol62]

Bloody hell billy,
What language you guys speaking? Auto electrickerish!
Cheers
Clay


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[BILLY BLACKARROW]

Errol62
I don't know what it means it's copied from a Ebay sale but it should work
BILLY

[Errol62]

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[Mick]

dunno what they used but the austin had LED blinkers and it still went click click click when the blinkers flashed maybe what Billy said

[BILLY BLACKARROW]

I don't know for sure but think you have to have one for each corner
4Pack Load Resistor 50W 6ohm Fix LED Bulb Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blinker Sales
Brand new
AU $6.93
+AU $0.99 postage
look on Ebay you can get them in Australia from auto excesories places but dearer
Out of China
BILLY

[rosco]

Harv,
I like your practical thinking.... I wouldn't have come up with that.

My humble opinion is that you should continue with what you have purchased and fitted - all components are matched for this new LED system. I am surprised that some form of audible warning has not been included either in the can or as an additional component - might be worth a check with an auto sparky..... simple phone call - or to whoever you made purchases with.

I am a little perplexed as to why the supply to the LED driver switches on and off..... if it does - then your original plan is more suitable than what I suggest below.

As for the relay - yes, yes and yes.... good work. You'll need to connect up terminal 30 to the output of your LED driving lead - I fully suspect that the can will easily cope with the very small amperage required to energise the contact coil.

Secondly, terminal 87 would then be connected to earth. To totally confuse you, I don't believe there is much of a difference in making terminal 30 or 87 earth... but terminals 85 and 86 are the switched terminals.

Now, something which might be of interest to you.... should you now wish to make use of the work involved in fitting this relay - use the switched terminals.... a number of options are available for having now effected an indicator driven line....

The first, of course - would be to drive some form of secondary alarm - and I do note that a piezo or beeping warning would amount to its own demise...
My hearing is almost shot due to industrial deafness (and a little bit of domestic gender deafness) - I can barely hear the indicator warning in any of my vehicles - even with these mega dollar hearing aids I now wear...
If yours is still good, you might be able to hear the contacts close and open in a relay - but we must consider, you will have a healthy V8 engine under the hood - and virtually no-one who has one fitted to a classic vehicle doe not also have a "healthy" exhaust note as part of the package.... not to mention some form of audio entertainment... just thinking outside the box.

The only issue I have here is that if connected to one of the outputs, the relay will only operate when that direction is selected... I have added a little bit further down this post which will ensure that either of two relays will sound for you - but not together.

The second which comes to mind is that of hazard lights.... but it involves using a master control switch and two diodes then splicing into the current (excuse pun) loom to both the left and right indicator leads..... not a huge job, but one which you may find useful if you get stuck in traffic and the moron behind you simply doesn't understand hand signals. Alternatively, if you intend (or have) fitted a security alarm system to your vehicle - wiring up a hazard switch is a little easier..... the control box already has two driver leads which connect to either the indicators or headlights - the diodes are inside the "wizardry" box.

And my third suggestion would be to fit two additional relays, one to each indicator lead in the loom.... and two additional leads added to the loom to the rear of the vehicle.

You can then send down a driven line to a trailer socket, if you intend to fit one..... making use of the relays to power them from an ACC supply through terminals 85 and 86 - pretty much standard "driving lights" set up.

I don't know how the LED system would cope with the draw of incandescent globes in a trailer connection... but do know, if you run separate leads to the left and right pins of the trailer socket from a relay - the LED system would not know they are there.... and the very small load placed on the LED driver to energise each relay coil would be negligible ...

Ok, again Harv - great thinking on the relay option for an audible alarm.... I'd be taking a battery with me to source out one which made the loudest "click"....

frats,
Rosco

[Harv]

Thanks guys - appreciated.

My hearing is starting to drop off too, or at least that's what the audiometry says. I worked with a lot of ex-Vietnam era RAN guys, who were all stone-deaf from working with turbines similar to the industrial stuff I play with. Makes you think a bit more deeply about hearing protection.

The wagon does have a healthy exhaust note... twin 2 1/2" pipes, single cross-over and one muffler on each run. Hoping the engineer is as deaf as I am next Tuesday. Loud pipes save lives . I must be getting old though as I put a big-bore exhaust on Number 1 Son's VL Commodore, and the drone drives me nuts (he thinks it is awesome).

The feed to the LED flasher can comes straight out of the fusebox, +12V accessory power. It's always got 12V up its bum, but normally has no current flow because the flasher can does not let current flow out to the LED bulbs. If you put a test lead into that feed line and earth the other end, the test light comes on all the time. If however you put the test lead in series to the feed the test light will flash as the current stops and starts to the flasher can. The trick is thus to put the relay in series, not parallel, to the feed line.

There are two types of LED flasher cans available. One is made for a couple of LEDs, and has a low current rating. If you put incandescent bulbs on that type they tend to blow the flasher can. The other type of flasher can has a lot higher power rating, and is made for cars with LED taillights and incandescent side marker lights. This latter type is the one I have.

Cheers,
Harv