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I guess the question I am asking is whether there is pedal free play? ( input to booster is not under constant pressure from pedal ) Output adjustment influences master cylinder behaviour, input side adjustment influences booster behaviour.
If good pedal freeplay then perhaps either booster is leaking vacuum or vacuum system is leaking??
Brett

Hey Brett, since I made the adjustment I feel pedal drop when vacuum comes on so I agree with you I’m thinking leak in the system or the cheap arse Chinese booster is leaking

I'm pretty sure I have the same booster on my ute. I had leak trouble with my first one after I adjusted it and I think it was because I didn't fully stop the inner nut from turning when I adjusted the little domed rod that goes up against master cylinder piston. I think that nut is attached directly to the diaphragm and by allowing it to turn it started to leak. Fortunately I had purchased a spare (by mistake) and have had no trouble since. Maybe that is what happened with yours.

Just to confirm first though, you do have freeplay on the pedal to the booster?
B

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Starting to think I need one of these brake setup tools that you have just picked up Neil to check the settings on the rattler - can you walk me through how they work ???

You tube is your friend.
https://youtu.be/OZGzsIeVjG4?si=VmRTdQgZ3TwEprQ0

Brett027 wrote: Mon Sep 23, 2024 10:09 am You tube is your friend.
https://youtu.be/OZGzsIeVjG4?si=VmRTdQgZ3TwEprQ0

Blacky the tool I bought was $22.69 on Evilbay you can borrow mine if you like.

You may be onto something there Brett my booster doesn't have a locking nut on the adjuster, it is it is very hard to turn and I had to hold the female threaded part with pointy nose pliers to turn the screw/adjuster so could have damaged the diaphragm then.

I might look into getting another booster.

FireKraka wrote: Wed Sep 25, 2024 10:37 am Blacky the tool I bought was $22.69 on Evilbay you can borrow mine if you like.

I ordered one the other day mate - you can't have too many tools

Blacky there is no truer statement

Well looks like the gearbox in Frank didn't survive the lose of oil from the cooler getting punctured when we were on the club run out through the Wheatbelt.
I drove up to the local shop the other day and when I accelerated the revs went up but we weren't moving as quick as it should have been and there a rattle noise underneath that sounds like the muffler has a bunch of nuts and bolts in it

Uh oh. Bloody cars are a money pit.
I’m sure you can fix it Neil.

As they say in the classics, bugger….


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Dang, I had one reconditioned for the rattler a couple of years ago, cost me about $1700

Got a couple of second handy's one is supposed to be a good one a guy bought from a wreckers and I have another one here in the company workshop but not sure of condition.

Just hope I haven't torched the torque converter