EK Wagon project - Total rebuild

[Finny]

Sloth, you were right about the pushrod lengths. I took two from one engine, however when compared they were about 1cm shorter than the ones I needed. I saw an earlier post that said maybe the motor had two different sizes, depending on the cylinder. It appears that all pushrods should be the same length in a motor, but the 138's definately have two different lengths depending on the motor.

Anyhow, I have replaced the bent rocker, checked everything and it all looked good. Have started installing the rest of the motor. Trying to remember were every item came from is not easy, especially when you have two bolts that are slightly different lengths. But I got it all right in the end.

Photo's ended up a little blurry, but you can see it's getting there. Next time, I'll take the photo's before it gets too dark

[Finny]

As you may have seen in the previous images, I cleaned up the manifold before putting it back on. I used a wire wheel on an electric drill, and it certainly looks much better. I'm not sure how you get it to shine, like I have seen in other posts.



If I can get any time tomorrow, I might be able to get the motor running.

[Finny]

Tim, and it appears the later ones are different too.

Looks like original motor in Parts car, short pushrods.
138 in project car, is out of an EJ, longer pushrods.

EK and EJ appears to be different too.

[Mephious]

Maybe try ceramic coating Finny ?

May cost a little , but the way grey motor holden parts are these days ... any money spent you would get back if you ever decided to sell them.

The extractors on mine originally were just black primer .... got both sides ceramic coated and they came up really flash.

[Finny]

My 138 is suffering a little size envy, but it will recover.

Any idea/guidelines on costs for ceramic ?
Certainly looks nice

[Finny]

Tim, I'll go with whatever you say, I just a novice in this field, with only a little bit of knowledge.

A very dangerous thing I'm told.

[Finny]

Didn't get to start the motor yet, so many things to do and check. Add water, add oil, etc.

Some better photo's with some more work done.







Decided to repaint the accelerator bar, it was red previously. There was a broken off drill bit (Stuck solid) in the hole where it attaches to the bracket on the fire wall. That was what was holding in on. I had to drill a hole completely through it and put a split pin through the new hole. Broke 5 drill bits trying to get the old one out and drill through the whole bar.





Almost there. Did connect the battery but got nothing when key turned. Could be flat battery or electrical connection issue. Will try again next week.

[Finny]

Thought I'd show the latest update on the body progress.



NONE. Each time I arrive, and when I leave this is what it looks like.

Either that or I'm creating a new design and keeping it under wraps

[Finny]

Finny
I think you'll find Repco and other engine reconditioners over the years have mixed things up a bit with blocks heads and other bits.
To be specific to original specs....
1948 to FJ Engine Number 178123 is one type
Engine No 172124 to FB enine number B65279 (1960) is another
Engine B65280 (1960) is the last
Cheers
Tim

Tim, my grey motor is a J149437 out of an EJ holden where does it fit ?

[Finny]

Got to do a bit more work on getting the motor running.

Battery charged and tested.
Leads and wires checked.
Fluids filled and checked.
Fuel in tank and bowl.

Turn key and................. nothing.

How can I check electricals, is battery power getting through ?
No dash, so no guages to see.
Can't check lights, none left on car.
Wipers ? Yes they work. I have power.

Turn key and .................. nothing.

Think ???????
Oh of course, silly me. Think !!! this is an old Holden, get a spanner.
Wack the starter 3 times, turn the key and ...........

IT's ALIVE..........
Nice sound too. Carby still needs adjustments, rough spot when you start to accelerate (almost dies), but once past it runs great.

Had my first drive, all of a couple of metres backwards and forwards in the back yard. What an awesome feeling.

It's a real shame I don't have any brakes or I could have really put the foot down, maybe next week.

[karsten]

hey finny that throttle shaft is meant to have a spring on drivers side that pushes it over to passengerside and keeps it from drifting around ,,and you dont need the split pin then ,, would of saved ya some drill bits if youd of just kept it standard,, you bloody modders

looking good mate ,, the body colour sceem is obviosly another bloody modder thing ,,you blokes just wont do things stock pesonaly i dont like the colour combo ,, but each to there own

[Finny]

Throttle shaft ??? That makes sense I knew something wasn't right, but the broken off drill bit put me off. Anyhow, it's now much safer, a design improvement, not a mod.

Colour scheme, each to their own, I like the fact that I haven't seen anyone else with that combo so far. It's just a little noisy when the wind gets under the plastic.

[Finny]

Moved onto preparations for swaping the front end over for HR disc brakes. Disconnected the brake hoses, removed the splash trays and stabiliser bar and loosened all the other bolts.
Everything went fairly well, except to two area.



Snapped one of the bolts off that holds the bracket for the stabiliser bar, Now stuck inside the thread. Strange because it was turning at the time. Guess I'll have to try and drill it out, unless anyone has another idea.

The second is I can't figure out how I'm supposed to connect the pitman arm to the new front end.


This is what I am starting with, no nut to undo off the pitman arm, looks like a solid seal at the top, no nut.


And this is what I have to connect up. A threaded bolt connection.

Do I need a HR pitman arm or am I missing a step or something.

[EK283]

Finny,
On the end of the drag link on the fb/ek there is a split pin that you remove and then unscrew the adjuster that will release the drag link from the pittman arm.
I dont remember but Im sure you need the pittman arm from a HR as well ( I could be wrong here ) haven't done one for years.
You will need a puller to get it off the steering box unles your lucky and its a little loose.
Thats all I can remember, someone else may be able to elaborate!

Regards Greg

[Finny]

Decided to take my car for a drive. Drove it out onto the front driveway (handbrake stopping only), to get the front end swap completed.

After spending the whole day on it, it's done.
And sitting a lot LOWER than before.

I think she appreciated getting out in the sun for a change.


Didn't take the motor out, but held it up with a hoist, plus the stands under the frame, and a jack under the gearbox


Took a long time to get the Pitman arm off. The puller was straining and nothing was moving. After several attempts I gave up and decided to leave the old steering intact for the time being. Took the puller off, went to the other side to bolt the idler arm back on, moved the wheels, and ping (heard the pitman fall off) I can only assume it must have been slightly off center when pulling. The old front end is OUT.


New front end is on. Had several attempts to get the 4 main bolts to sit down, kept ending up with movement and about a inch of movement when tight. Discovered that the short spacers were now making it too long and needed to remove them.


All back together and you can see that the front is sitting a lot lower. It was already lowered.


Real shame the HR rear cylinders and shoes won't fit, so I still don't have any foot brakes