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Yes darker than dash paint. Going to do repaired steering wheel in same paint. Next job. Will be glad to finish all this steering malarkey.

Brett027 wrote: Sun Aug 16, 2020 3:56 pm Hi Rob, I didn't use the carbon on these as I had good brass buttons- just the wire, spring and brass end plates. In the post I was musing that there would be no reason not to use the carbon if you had nothing else. A file would do it - a bit of a fiddle but easy filing. Carbon would be quieter and self lubricating as well

My kingdom for one of those horn contacts . When I first bought the FB, it would sound the horn at odd moments. I pulled the wheel apart, and someone had jammed two contact sets into the hole (I kid you not). Replaced the contacts with Rares parts, and good to go. Over the next ten years, every time I pulled the wheel off I shorted the contacts. The wire and spring would glow incandescent, then melt. I’d curse my stupidity, then buy another contact set. Blew the last set and went to Rares, only to find they have nil stock. Been on back order for a long time. Of course, I threw the blown brass and cylinder out. Have been hunting eBay, but the prices are ridiculous.

Cheers,
Harv

Hi Harv. If it helps you keep your kingdom you can have my 2nd one that was for Project 2. I'm sure I will sort something out by the time I need it again.

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I have used a carbon brush out of an angle grinder and filed the carbon down to suit the hole. Worked great. Not sure what brand of grinder the brushes came from though as it was a couple of years ago. Regards Daz.

Thanks Daz. I was wondering if a distributor cap centre carbon contact might work with no work to do at all?

I've been playing with these FE EK horn contacts since 1986. All the little bits have always been precious. None more so than these contacts.

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Brett027 wrote: Sun Aug 16, 2020 5:45 pm Hi Harv. If it helps you keep your kingdom you can have my 2nd one that was for Project 2. I'm sure I will sort something out by the time I need it again.

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Many thanks. I'll see if I can lay my hands on a set of brushes, and make one up. Appreciate the offer though.

Cheers,
Harv

Send me a PM with your details Harv and I'll pop it in the post if you change your mind.

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Mucking about with steering wheel today. Cracks and missing bits, but overall a good one. Used a dremel to gouge out and clean the surfaces and then ended up using an araldite like filler. I had read that araldite is good because it remains a bit flexible. Sanded back and primed with a plastic primer used for bumper repairs. Coated with normal acrylic primer and then filled minor imperfections with spot putty. Sanding and more primer tomorrow when putty is fully dry. Will try gloss black for final coats. With a bit of luck more pics tomorrow.

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Bit more on column assembly. I had bought a Rares upper column bush on spec long ago, but when it came to it I cleaned up the old ball bearing set up, greased it up and used it again. Putting the honeypot thingy back together was not particularly onerous and I did the required set up measurement for the gear lever adjustment (2.2"). I had one of the ute ones with me and swapped the indicator wires over as they had the ends still on them. Noticed the ute indicator assembly had an extra set of wires - presumably this is about the brake lights also being the indicators?
Used a bit of thin wire to feed the indicator group and horn wire through the column and out the side.
Anyway all together without any dramas.

PS. Clay, I got hold of an HR linkage setup to put on Project 2. Nearly bought another rusty ute body on the weekend but common sense and domestic fear averted an incident.

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Uh huh. FB and EK are slightly different as I recall but using the brake lights for rear indicators went out in mid FC run. I think the difference may be down to changes to suit the hydramatic reverse light setup in EK? Either will work but pays to test resistance prior to installing in column to make sure it all works. White wire is power in from reverse light switch.

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Now I remember. One set up has separate wires out for front and rear indicators and other just a circuit for each side.

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The six-wire indicator switches are for all FE-FC body styles and FB-EK commercials - anything with FE-FC taillights.
The three-wire indicator switches are for FB-EK passenger vehicles, because they have separate tail/stop, indicator and reverse lamps.

Rob

Yes that makes sense now. When I put the indicator switch in my ute I must have lucked on the column out of the van.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Great information on the indicator mechanisms!
So to be clear, either type of mechanism will work ok?
Just need to wire it up accordingly?