fbekholden.com

Blacky wrote:

mph wrote:so i have a oil pressure sender on my spare blue motor and im wondering if it would work on my red motor in the fb with the original fb wire to it.
as in i presume the grey oil switch would come on when oils low.
So would the blue motor oil switch work the same as grey or is it different internal to suit a oil pressure gauge
I have a mechanical gauge i just want the dash light to work as it would with a grey
Thanks

That sender is for a gauge not a light - you need a different one mate.

thanks mate. , and off to the auto shop

I've used a brass union so as to have mechanical gauge and idiot light too.


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Errol62 wrote:I've used a brass union so as to have mechanical gauge and idiot light too.


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That's what I have done - bought the adaptor at Auto One.

Thats the plan fellas, i did that on my cruiser worked a treat. Just need to take both to match threads etc
I picked up a switch after work from auto one , it was $8 i dont know if thats good or bad thing

The fuel tank ive dropped off to Tony for a rebirth, peace of mind that i shouldn't cut out due to a dirty tank and blocked fuel line on a hwy somewhere, ive stripped the sender not sure if it can be fixed or i need a new one yet and might need to find copper pop rivets
Have been on the wiring side of things ,im going for a bit of a preventative maintenance setup, all wiring is now hidden and engine bay wires kept to minimum view
The headlights high high low and low beams now each with separate fused 12v supply and relay should have any burnt wires problems and will upgrade to some 90w/100w halogens some day. not hids had them in my cruiser ute and was sick of every one flashing me so i ditched them back to oem globes.
Reverse lights working led
Dashlights leds, had to bypass the resistor in the light switch thanks to a topic post on the forum about it
Auto lock out working
Grey dash light wire extension to the after market oil water and temp gauge lights leds
LED adj flasher box for the led blinkers make sure it has a separate earth or it will not work
Blinker lights working leds
Tail lights working leds
park lights working leds
interior light led
Quadrant light green led
im hoping the leds should give the wiring loom a more relaxing life

Question
Not sure on the pink wire to the coil ive given the coil a new solid 12v feed and the "old" coil wire is now my relay trigger switch not sure if it will quite work as some posts say if ive read it correctly that oem coil wire was actually a resistive wire to dropping the voltage to 9v ? or something.
Question
when you turn the key on to ign just before start the temp and gen light stay on is the oil light also ment to light up .
I bought a new pressure switch for the block and have hooked the wire up.? the block switch is ment to be for a light not a gauge?

Thanks

mph wrote:Question
Not sure on the pink wire to the coil ive given the coil a new solid 12v feed and the "old" coil wire is now my relay trigger switch not sure if it will quite work as some posts say if ive read it correctly that oem coil wire was actually a resistive wire to dropping the voltage to 9v ? or something.

Nope, the FB/EKs don't have a resistor wire, or ballast resistor. They feed 12V to the coil constantly.

In "more modern cars", a ballast resistor/wire drops the coil voltage down ~9V to limit coil current. When starting, the resistor is bypassed to feed a full 12V to the coil.

mph wrote:Question
when you turn the key on to ign just before start the temp and gen light stay on is the oil light also ment to light up .
I bought a new pressure switch for the block and have hooked the wire up.? the block switch is ment to be for a light not a gauge?

Your Gen light comes on as the gen is not charging. The Oil light should also come on, as there is no oil pressure. The Temp light stays off, as the temperature is OK. Check your wiring - sounds like you swapped the Oil and Temp bulbs.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote:

mph wrote:Question
Not sure on the pink wire to the coil ive given the coil a new solid 12v feed and the "old" coil wire is now my relay trigger switch not sure if it will quite work as some posts say if ive read it correctly that oem coil wire was actually a resistive wire to dropping the voltage to 9v ? or something.

Nope, the FB/EKs don't have a resistor wire, or ballast resistor. They feed 12V to the coil constantly.

In "more modern cars", a ballast resistor/wire drops the coil voltage down ~9V to limit coil current. When starting, the resistor is bypassed to feed a full 12V to the coil.

mph wrote:Question
when you turn the key on to ign just before start the temp and gen light stay on is the oil light also ment to light up .
I bought a new pressure switch for the block and have hooked the wire up.? the block switch is ment to be for a light not a gauge?

Your Gen light comes on as the gen is not charging. The Oil light should also come on, as there is no oil pressure. The Temp light stays off, as the temperature is OK. Check your wiring - sounds like you swapped the Oil and Temp bulbs.


Cheers,
Harv

Nice one Harv had them mixed over and now there good.

Now that ive pulled the wire loom from the engine bay to relocate it under the dash with the high low beam dip switch having the wire on the out side of the firewall i didnt want to re poke the cables back out the floor to the switch so off to auto one and bought a narva gmh dip switch i think it might be hq style and the terminals now stay in the car along with the wire. had to drill two new holes horizontal other wire the terminals would touch the floor

it retains the same height as the oem one so shouldn't poke through the carpet any more than the oem, the narva one also covers the switch hole but i also made up a metal plate to cover the hole outside. i made a perspex cut out the same as the base of the switch so those terminals physically cant be stomped to earth out on the floor.


Regarding blinkers the wiring diagram above im not sure if i am i missing something , it shows from the column the dark blue wire which has a junction to 3 wires , #1 the Rh front blinker dark blue, #2 rear rh blinker running the purple wire #3 the last dark blue wire but that goes to the lhs dash blinker is this correct?
The loom on the dash cluster seems to follow the wiring diagram were wires are bunched and tapped from holden . Is that a if a earth breaks or a globe goes its works odly

see the loom seems to be how it should be but the dark blue wire on the lhs blinker

Not much to up date not realy pic worthy plus flickr doesnt reconise my email to log in anymore
All the chrome is back on now with the new clips from rares ,i think having a std fb would have been much eaier chrome wise
Back doors done. have glass, q glass, felt strips, rubbers all complete with new rear door switch for alarm an central locking actuators installed.
The front q glass frames ive re built cleaned polished sanded painted re rubbered etc man they are fiddly time consuming bits to do

Question:
Regarding the front door window regs

Is there a left an right hand side i have two front regs that came in the parts box but they look the same and one had all the teeth stripped off some im not sure if my good one was to replace the busted one and the other side is just missing in general ? or if they are both the same for either side and ones just needs replacing.
i installed the good one and glass with the rest of the seals and q glass etc in the lhs front door but i can push the glass down by hand is this something to do with the way to spring is wound on the window reg for left and right or its stuffed and i need two new regs?

Thanks guys

There is a left and right hand regulator - they are like mirror images of each other.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote:There is a left and right hand regulator - they are like mirror images of each other.

Cheers,
Harv

The Spring should assist the window to go up , not down so if you are compressing the spring on the way up its in the wrong door

Hey Clint,
Since your polishing your wiring skills why not flick the window regulators and wire up electric windows? I always wanted electric windows (aka fast glass) when I had my Celica, now that I've got them 30 yrs later they can be a pain. Kids playing with them driving them up & down or everyone piles out the car, you take the keys out then realise they have left the bloody windows down! Other than that they are good.
Stephen

Cheers Harv and Blacky ,i looked at the regs some more and so the left side door which has a reg in it uses the spring the way you mentioned which is good i don't have to pull it back out to swap sides but maybe replace it when i find a better condition one that doesn't let me push the glass down by hand, it does how ever need a bit of a push to get it down lt cant be done with just a finger.
And the one with the busted teeth is to suit the rhs which makes sense the drivers side flogging out as it would have had more use than all the other regs.
It appears the spring could be flipped over on the reg to suit either side of the car .they have a double ended tab to retain the spring which ever way it sits.


Stephen
i have given it many thoughts but im not to convinced with the reliability of after market motors and more so the strength of them especially with how tight the glass is with all new rubbers and seals in old holdens. i wouldn't like to see plastic glass switches in the car either . If they came with fast glass as a option id retro fit it.
I did get all genuine toyota landcruiser glass ,motors and central locking from japan and installed into my landcruiser ute and would never go back to crank handles again electric for dd is the bomb but for the fb ill put up with it for now i think.

Something else to go wrong and add weight to the car. The beauty of the old girls is on their simplicity (my 2c worth).


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Would anyone have ideas on the deal with the dash indicators being wired to the opposite side of the car indicators. when i indicate right the rhs front and rear blinkers go on but the left dash blinker goes on wiring is correct as the manual states it. i do have a adjustable led flasher relay to replace the old one to slow down the flash time to suit front and black led bulbs so it must be something with the but im not sure why. or if holden set it up when a globe blows or something it flashes the wrong side a warning lamp
Thanks

probably a crappy earth , my sedan flashes the right dash indicator for both left and right but the outside lights work fine - it doesn't worry me, just adds to the quirkiness does the left indicator bring the right internal one on or does it work as it should ???