fbekholden.com

I am going to go with one of those majick boxes for the rattler , and use the Commode sender rather than the original one- the Commode is the same from what I can gather , it’s 250ohm empty to 40 ohms full so should work fine

gauge works can change the gauge to work .. i rang them last year

Probably going to go down the Mustang tank path as well on my build so this little converter will be on my shopping list. I have had a hunt around and the cheapest I have seen them is $42 on ebay inc postage. Think I'll get 2, put 4 pin plugs on them, calibrate them both, and stick 1 in the draw for when the other one fails.
And Drew thanks for posting up all the pics fitting in the tank - will be a big help in tackling this job.

Got a link to the $42 ones ???

Instead of having the gauge altered I had the little card that is inside the sender rewound to suit the FC gauge when I did the conversion on my FC Sedan

Ways to skin a cat.....

I've been wondering if adapting the original sender would be workable, but I suppose finding one that still works is a job in itself.

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I still have the original sender in the tank of the rattler, but no doubt the Commode one would be more reliable

Her is a bit of a reference for what resistance readings the most common fuel senders are.

I like the idea of getting the fuel sender adjusted but I’m sick of getting petrol in me as I have drained the tank a few times now and honestly KBF doing it again.

But in saying that even with the electric black box it’s recommended to have the sender and the gauge on the bench to be able to quickly calibrate the EMPTY, HALF & FULL settings.

But I’m sure you could fill the tank and calibrate it to FULL
Then run it empty to calibrate EMPTY
Then measure exactly half a tank and set it to HALF

Six of one half dozen of the other, probably easier doing the bench calibration now I think of it

Here is a procedure I found on line for a brand I can’t remember, but I’m sure they are basically all the same

On another note I had my auto electrician point out that the metal tek screws I have fixing all of fuel and brake lines to the chassis with will most likely fail an inspection when it comes registration time.

He said they fail tek screws and prefer self tapping screws with a flat washer under them.

Has anyone experienced this issue with an engineer?

What is the acceptable standard?

Blacky wrote: Wed Feb 01, 2023 9:48 am Got a link to the $42 ones ???

Wow what a difference a day makes. I ended up ordering 2 at $42. Went back on ebay to get the link for you and they are now selling them for $68!!
Cheapest on ebay that I could find was around $50. They are also on Amazon for a bit more. All look identical.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/37421221995 ... 6056615981

FbSTDwagon wrote: Thu Feb 02, 2023 6:10 am On another note I had my auto electrician point out that the metal tek screws I have fixing all of fuel and brake lines to the chassis with will most likely fail an inspection when it comes registration time.

He said they fail tek screws and prefer self tapping screws with a flat washer under them.

Has anyone experienced this issue with an engineer?

What is the acceptable standard?

My wagon runs a LOT of tek screws. Fuel and brake line clamps, handbrake cable clamps, various bits under the bonnet, wiring clips. My engineer is rather fussy, and did not blink an eye.

Someone who thinks a self-tapper and washer is any better than a tek screw should probably not be an engineer.

Cheers,
Harv

This is sa mate we dunno engineer from nob jockey

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Drew,

Electronics engineer speaking here: Strewth, that's a complicated set of instructions for the FM-101.

Go to your local Jaycar and buy two, fifteen-ohm, one-watt resistors.

"Full" calibration: connect the resistors in series between the green wire and ground. Adjust trimpot (adjusting screw) for "F" on the gauge. Press "F" button.
"Half" calibration: connect one resistor between the green wire and ground. Adjust trimpot for 1/2 on the gauge. Press "H" button.
"Empty" calibration: connect green wire to ground. Adjust trimpot for "E" on the gauge. Press "E" button.

Disregard the warning notice in red about damaging the trimpot - you can't damage them by turning the adjusting screw too far.

I was hoping that Jaycar sells trimpot adjuster tools (aka "twiddle-sticks" in the profession), but they don't.

Rob

Errol62 wrote: Thu Feb 02, 2023 8:58 am This is sa mate we dunno engineer from nob jockey

More often than not they are one and the same in the mining game ……