Hi. Has anyone had any experience using POR15 rust preventative paint as a base coat under acrylic or 2 pac paint systems please?
The roof on my EK wagon project has suffered from "over exposure" and as a result is a bit pockmarked with surface rust - thankfully not terminal. I've started taking it back it to bare, then the plan is to give it 2 or 3 coats of POR15 to (hopefully) prevent any further rusting forever. Then, when the car's ready for paint (at least 12 months away) overcoat the POR15 with the desired paint system.
The manufacturer claims that POR15 can be painted over with any other paint system, but requires scuffing, or their special primer, beforehand. Has anyone had any experience - or encountered any pitfalls (like poor adhesion or bleeding) - doing this please? I thought it might be wise to ask around before I start slapping it on!!
Have just finished doing all of the floor inside with POR15 though and am very pleased with the result. Of course only time will really tell I s'pose.
POR15 as a base coat?
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bootlegger
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I did a car once for a guy and he painted the POR stuff all inside the doors. When I painted the base coat over the top wherever the POR was it fried up. I had to try a strip it all off and redo it all.
If your roof is pitted you need to get the rust out.
I dont really care what a paint manufacturer claims. There are no miracle cures. Nothing gets it out better than sandblating. You could try rust convertor and deoxidine.
Make sure you wash it all down with water after.
Use a good quality etch primer then normal primer and paint.
Dont leave it for twelve months in primer.
It absorbs moisture and you will just create whole pile of other problems.
If your roof is pitted you need to get the rust out.
I dont really care what a paint manufacturer claims. There are no miracle cures. Nothing gets it out better than sandblating. You could try rust convertor and deoxidine.
Make sure you wash it all down with water after.
Use a good quality etch primer then normal primer and paint.
Dont leave it for twelve months in primer.
It absorbs moisture and you will just create whole pile of other problems.
Hi Steve,
I am comforted to learn that you have chosen POR15 as a permanent coating for your vehicle - I do not know of a more appropriate product which meets our needs. In all my applications of this product, I have achieved success - once I took heed of the warning to "follow the instructions"....... kids have a better success rate with this - we "old skule" people tend to stuff it up by using experience rather than advice...
I very much hope you have followed the instructions "to the very letter"... if this is the case, I believe you can rest assured your work will never raise any concerns on what is hidden under hoodlinings, mats or over-coatings.......
Yes, you can most certainly apply other paint systems over the top of POR-15
The company market a product called "Tie Coat"... I have used it and it works very well - it can be applied to fully cured POR15 within a certain time period after application ("well seasoned" is the term suggested - up to 6 months, but better adhesion is achieved earlier).
Tie coat is highly resistant to penetrating topcoats (enamels, lacquers and 2K) with epecially aggressive solvent bases - (these can penetrate and ruin a partially cured base coat - hence the "well seasoned" requirement).
Once Tie Coat has dried, it can be sanded to a very smooth finish in preparation for over-coating with other paint systems...
It is my intention, Steve - when I next strip an external panel, to follow this procedure - so far, I only have experience in using Tie Coat over POR-15 in my boot area..... where I used acrylic as a top coat.
I also used a product (from the same factory, under a different brand..... U-Pol) called Barcoat - a quick drying Isolator - this was used where enamels were present adjacent to the POR-15 (seat back wood panels).... I did not want the acrylic thinners to blister through the enamel (house paint) and so, sprayed Isolator over the entire seat back area.....
If you proceed with over-coating POR-15 with acrylic (or whatever) I hope you keep us informed of your experience..... it is probably going to be some time before I get back into painting - I have some pre-retirement projects on the go at present.... but am very eager to get back into the "paint shop" and have some more fun......
frats,
Rosco
I am comforted to learn that you have chosen POR15 as a permanent coating for your vehicle - I do not know of a more appropriate product which meets our needs. In all my applications of this product, I have achieved success - once I took heed of the warning to "follow the instructions"....... kids have a better success rate with this - we "old skule" people tend to stuff it up by using experience rather than advice...
I very much hope you have followed the instructions "to the very letter"... if this is the case, I believe you can rest assured your work will never raise any concerns on what is hidden under hoodlinings, mats or over-coatings.......
Yes, you can most certainly apply other paint systems over the top of POR-15
The company market a product called "Tie Coat"... I have used it and it works very well - it can be applied to fully cured POR15 within a certain time period after application ("well seasoned" is the term suggested - up to 6 months, but better adhesion is achieved earlier).
Tie coat is highly resistant to penetrating topcoats (enamels, lacquers and 2K) with epecially aggressive solvent bases - (these can penetrate and ruin a partially cured base coat - hence the "well seasoned" requirement).
Once Tie Coat has dried, it can be sanded to a very smooth finish in preparation for over-coating with other paint systems...
It is my intention, Steve - when I next strip an external panel, to follow this procedure - so far, I only have experience in using Tie Coat over POR-15 in my boot area..... where I used acrylic as a top coat.
I also used a product (from the same factory, under a different brand..... U-Pol) called Barcoat - a quick drying Isolator - this was used where enamels were present adjacent to the POR-15 (seat back wood panels).... I did not want the acrylic thinners to blister through the enamel (house paint) and so, sprayed Isolator over the entire seat back area.....
If you proceed with over-coating POR-15 with acrylic (or whatever) I hope you keep us informed of your experience..... it is probably going to be some time before I get back into painting - I have some pre-retirement projects on the go at present.... but am very eager to get back into the "paint shop" and have some more fun......
frats,
Rosco
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mrs ratbox
AS Bootlegger and Mick have stated, exterior coatings on sound surfaces probably are better served by age old methods and systems - especially if you are not totally familiar with the POR system.
I still will, however - subject my bare metal strip to this procedure and watch closely over its long term results.....
I have gone down the wire brush, scrape, cajole and sand path including de-oxidine and a number of different etch primers and "wonder" rust treatments - with varying results.... most of which successful.
Of all the POR 15 areas I have coated, none of them are yet to display any breaking down or chipping..... including some areas in the direct line of fire from tyres etc....
I have not experienced blistering of any acrylic paintwork to which POR-15 has been applied to the reverse side of the material......yet..
Anyone kindly advise of any negative results - I would be very interested to learn of any adverse experiences....
Steve, at the end of the day - it is you who must make the decision and I note the thrust of your post is for advice.... hopefully others and I have given you material to consider...
Members of this forum have posted positively on this product - and we are now aware that a negative result has emerged.... perhaps this occurrence needs to be heeded......
frats,
Rosco
I still will, however - subject my bare metal strip to this procedure and watch closely over its long term results.....
I have gone down the wire brush, scrape, cajole and sand path including de-oxidine and a number of different etch primers and "wonder" rust treatments - with varying results.... most of which successful.
Of all the POR 15 areas I have coated, none of them are yet to display any breaking down or chipping..... including some areas in the direct line of fire from tyres etc....
I have not experienced blistering of any acrylic paintwork to which POR-15 has been applied to the reverse side of the material......yet..
Anyone kindly advise of any negative results - I would be very interested to learn of any adverse experiences....
Steve, at the end of the day - it is you who must make the decision and I note the thrust of your post is for advice.... hopefully others and I have given you material to consider...
Members of this forum have posted positively on this product - and we are now aware that a negative result has emerged.... perhaps this occurrence needs to be heeded......
frats,
Rosco
Gday
Ive gotten close and personal with POR 15 when I painted the underside of my ute about a year ago and covered myself in black dots that took a while to remove
. The results are great and if you prep well are similar to powder coating. For what it's worth I also treated the window frame 'lips' with POR 15 then sprayed over with acrylic without a tie coat with good adhesion. The only thing to be careful with is if you spray it, then treat it like 2pack, it's supposed to contain isocyanate's.
Ive gotten close and personal with POR 15 when I painted the underside of my ute about a year ago and covered myself in black dots that took a while to remove
. The results are great and if you prep well are similar to powder coating. For what it's worth I also treated the window frame 'lips' with POR 15 then sprayed over with acrylic without a tie coat with good adhesion. The only thing to be careful with is if you spray it, then treat it like 2pack, it's supposed to contain isocyanate's.
rocky racoon....
Absolutely correct - and I have made very strict mention of this in earlier posts....... this stuff is deadly if atomised.
Thanks for the update - you've got some soul searching to do.... hopefully others will come on board in this....
Take note of what has been posted - as you would be aware... if you do down this path - the stuff is almost impossible to remove without mechanical abrasion....
further note - I assumed the name of "rocky racoon" a couple of years back..... yes, sprayed something or other with it... and made every attempt to contain any extraneous airborne paint "in house"...... had all skin covered including goggles....... on clean up - after the "haze" had subsided and most of the paint particles had found a new home....... took off the goggles..... got "itchy" around the eyes and gave them a bit of a rub........ four days, cplagarn - it took for me to lose my "eyes"...... I can't tell you how thin the humorous look of reaction became.......
frats,
Rosco
Thanks for the update - you've got some soul searching to do.... hopefully others will come on board in this....
Take note of what has been posted - as you would be aware... if you do down this path - the stuff is almost impossible to remove without mechanical abrasion....
further note - I assumed the name of "rocky racoon" a couple of years back..... yes, sprayed something or other with it... and made every attempt to contain any extraneous airborne paint "in house"...... had all skin covered including goggles....... on clean up - after the "haze" had subsided and most of the paint particles had found a new home....... took off the goggles..... got "itchy" around the eyes and gave them a bit of a rub........ four days, cplagarn - it took for me to lose my "eyes"...... I can't tell you how thin the humorous look of reaction became.......
frats,
Rosco
POR 15 as a base coat
Thanks very much each of you for your advice. This forum never ceases to amaze me with the amount of experience and information that people are prepared to share - worth its weight in gold!
Early in my working life I spent a few years maintaining steel structures using a variety of preparation tools (sandblasting, needle guns, wire brushes and other instruments of torture) and applying specialised protective coatings. I learnt then that meticulous preparation and following the instructions to the letter are the keys to having a win - so thanks Rosco, I definitely followed the instructions when doing the car's floor with POR15. Hopefully I'll get the desired result!
I like the comments about how well this stuff sticks to human beings - if it sticks to the car as well as it's stuck to me (and my glasses - "Dr, I'm seeing spots before my eyes") then I'm really on a winner!
Rosco: Given that it's likely to be some time before I'm ready to apply finish coats, and noting your advice about the timeframe for applying the "Tie Coat" I might talk to the PPC people about coating the stripped roof with their SW2 oil for a while, to protect it before applying the POR15. According to their brochure the cured SW2 is good for a year's protection and the POR15 will go straight over the top. I'll have a yarn with them and post up any info of use.
Ratbox: I'll defintely talk to the painter before I proceed and get his advice too. The guy I want to use knows his stuff - and will definitely have a view (as he does on most things - he's a grumpy old bugger like me).
cplargan: I am intending to do the window frames & door rubber channels in the POR15 too. I note they recommend this in their brochure and it's good to hear that it's worked for you.
Thanks again all for the benefit of your wisdom - very much appreciated.
Early in my working life I spent a few years maintaining steel structures using a variety of preparation tools (sandblasting, needle guns, wire brushes and other instruments of torture) and applying specialised protective coatings. I learnt then that meticulous preparation and following the instructions to the letter are the keys to having a win - so thanks Rosco, I definitely followed the instructions when doing the car's floor with POR15. Hopefully I'll get the desired result!
I like the comments about how well this stuff sticks to human beings - if it sticks to the car as well as it's stuck to me (and my glasses - "Dr, I'm seeing spots before my eyes") then I'm really on a winner!
Rosco: Given that it's likely to be some time before I'm ready to apply finish coats, and noting your advice about the timeframe for applying the "Tie Coat" I might talk to the PPC people about coating the stripped roof with their SW2 oil for a while, to protect it before applying the POR15. According to their brochure the cured SW2 is good for a year's protection and the POR15 will go straight over the top. I'll have a yarn with them and post up any info of use.
Ratbox: I'll defintely talk to the painter before I proceed and get his advice too. The guy I want to use knows his stuff - and will definitely have a view (as he does on most things - he's a grumpy old bugger like me).
cplargan: I am intending to do the window frames & door rubber channels in the POR15 too. I note they recommend this in their brochure and it's good to hear that it's worked for you.
Thanks again all for the benefit of your wisdom - very much appreciated.
Hello,
I have used POR15 under an entire paint system.
blasted panels, POR15, tie coat, then 2K hi-fill and colour.
worked as they said it would.
make sure you follow the instructions closely tho.
It added alot of time to the painting process due to extended drying and handling times...
Cheers
Ed
I have used POR15 under an entire paint system.
blasted panels, POR15, tie coat, then 2K hi-fill and colour.
worked as they said it would.
make sure you follow the instructions closely tho.
It added alot of time to the painting process due to extended drying and handling times...
Cheers
Ed
FE/FC Holden Car Club of NSW
POR15 as a base coat?
Had a yarn with the distributor in Sydney today. His advice was to strip the roof and apply two coats of POR15 - this can then sit for 12 months or more until I'm ready to paint. Then, immediately prior to finish coating, give the POR15 a light scuff (just enough to remove the gloss) and apply two coats of their Acid #8 etch primer.
Apparently the Acid#8 is more stable over "well cured" POR15 than the Tie Coat (which aparently is better used sooner rather than later) but will also accept any paint system over the top.
I'll follow this advice & post up how it goes.
Cheers.
Apparently the Acid#8 is more stable over "well cured" POR15 than the Tie Coat (which aparently is better used sooner rather than later) but will also accept any paint system over the top.
I'll follow this advice & post up how it goes.
Cheers.
POR
FYI, i just had my petrol tank from my Van Acid dipped last week and a "Fuel Tank Treatment Kit" applied, after the tank was emptied of the residual treatment the Panelshop Guys painted a layer ontop of the tank to seal it as there was some "pitting" of the metal evident. They suggested that if i wanted to paint the top of the tank all i would have to do is wait a couple of days, scuff it back with 200 or 400 paper and paint it over with acrylic
If you can’t convince them, confuse them.
POR15 as a base coat
But why paint it lexumus - it looks damn pretty as it is! 
POR
I does look good, the panel shop guys suggested that IF i wanted to paint it thats how , i agree with you and am leaving it as is plus you wont see it anyway. The bottom isnt painted and wont be painted is as im keeping the van "as is" with its 48yo paint sceem.
, i agree with you and am leaving it as is plus you wont see it anyway. The bottom isnt painted and wont be painted is as im keeping the van "as is" with its 48yo paint sceem.If you can’t convince them, confuse them.