Have the front end off my FB, and am restoring it with new rubbers, bushes etc. Also want to replace the shock absorbers and springs. Is there a safe way to do this with it out of the car, as the service manual suggests using jacks to slowly uncompress and recompress the springs. This is of course with the front end attached to the vehicle. Anyone done this before?
John
How to safely replace springs when front suspension unit out
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smooth
Hi John. Spring Compressors can not be used for the application you need, there is no room for the spring compressor when you try to install the top of the spring into the subframe. Internal spring compressors will not work either as the lower control arm prevents you from removing them. My advice is to refit the crossmember to the vehicle and carefully jack the lower control arm up with the spring in place. Much safer and easier. The coil springs are reasonably soft in tension and will jack into position with not too much drama. Kind regards, Steve
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smooth
Of course they work! We are talking about removing not installing. I used a set on a HK front end only days ago. (Front end design is very similar although ball joint not King Pin) As has been mentioned the springs are not that highly compressed on these old front ends, but should have been removed whilst still attached to the car.
The spring compressors do not need to go from one end of the spring to the other either, compressing just the internal coils is enough. You only need to remove enough pressure to make it safe.
Placing the front-end under the car and removing with the jack is still the better option though.
BTW the spring sits in the crossmember not the subframe.
Regards, Smooth
The spring compressors do not need to go from one end of the spring to the other either, compressing just the internal coils is enough. You only need to remove enough pressure to make it safe.
Placing the front-end under the car and removing with the jack is still the better option though.
BTW the spring sits in the crossmember not the subframe.
Regards, Smooth
Guys,
What I have done in the past is use 12mm threaded rod through the shock hole on top and a piece of angle that is thick and bolted to the lower wishbone shock location. You have to cut drill the angle to suit of coarse. The rod from any hardware is long enough so when you tighten the nut from the top it compresses the spring. When its compressed enough attach the king pin ball joint etc then undo the nut. Simple but effective. Make sure that the angle is strong and watch for any distortion, springs under tension can be lethal so take care! Your shocks may not be long enough until the car weight is on the springs but they are easy to install later.
Regards Greg
What I have done in the past is use 12mm threaded rod through the shock hole on top and a piece of angle that is thick and bolted to the lower wishbone shock location. You have to cut drill the angle to suit of coarse. The rod from any hardware is long enough so when you tighten the nut from the top it compresses the spring. When its compressed enough attach the king pin ball joint etc then undo the nut. Simple but effective. Make sure that the angle is strong and watch for any distortion, springs under tension can be lethal so take care! Your shocks may not be long enough until the car weight is on the springs but they are easy to install later.
Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
G'day John,
You could try the spring compressor Smooth mentioned but like Steve,I feel they would be too long and the lower conrol arm would be in the way and I doubt whether you would have access to enough coils ( bearing in mind a 1/3 rd to a 1/2 of the spring sits up in the crossmember spring cavity and is impossible to get the spring compressor on ) to compress enough of the spring to take the weight off either knuckle pins to allow disassembly.However the spring compressors are relatively cheap and you won't know if it would work or not unless you try.
Gregs idea has merit as I made a similar spring compressing tool to remove some springs in an XD Falcon a few years ago and it worked a similar way to how Greg did it even though Falcons have a different suspension design.
Just be carefull as compressed springs are very dangerous and you may lose some of your body parts that you'd rather keep if you get in the way of a flying spring!!
Or you could refit the crossmember to the subframe ( if the subframes still on the car that is).I know its a pain in the bum to have to refit but might be quicker in the long run.
Hope this helps,
Terry.
P.S.
John, I still haven't forgotten to have a look at my FB to tell you how the wiper switch vacuum line runs under the dash.
You could try the spring compressor Smooth mentioned but like Steve,I feel they would be too long and the lower conrol arm would be in the way and I doubt whether you would have access to enough coils ( bearing in mind a 1/3 rd to a 1/2 of the spring sits up in the crossmember spring cavity and is impossible to get the spring compressor on ) to compress enough of the spring to take the weight off either knuckle pins to allow disassembly.However the spring compressors are relatively cheap and you won't know if it would work or not unless you try.
Gregs idea has merit as I made a similar spring compressing tool to remove some springs in an XD Falcon a few years ago and it worked a similar way to how Greg did it even though Falcons have a different suspension design.
Just be carefull as compressed springs are very dangerous and you may lose some of your body parts that you'd rather keep if you get in the way of a flying spring!!
Or you could refit the crossmember to the subframe ( if the subframes still on the car that is).I know its a pain in the bum to have to refit but might be quicker in the long run.
Hope this helps,
Terry.
P.S.
John, I still haven't forgotten to have a look at my FB to tell you how the wiper switch vacuum line runs under the dash.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
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smooth
I see you know how to reply with some tact Terry 
. Let me just say that I didn't post my initial reply on guess work. You can use spring compressors. Though depending on the brand you might have to shorten the length of the thread. The ones I use have been modified over and over a again to the point I can insert them and tighten with the rattle gun pretty easily.
As for dealing with "Morons" they are everywhere. If newcomer Steve thinks I'm one good luck to him. I been called a lot worse! But, I'm not the one who doesn't know the difference between a crossmember and a subframe after claiming to be a mechanic or the one without tact.
anyway I'm not here to educate wannabees on how to show respect with tact when they think they know best, my response for was John and his original question. I "assumed" once apart the items would be cleaned, new parts fitted whilst being reassembled on the car. As per a normal rebuild. Posting straight after saying Spring Compressors can not be used is disrespectful and untrue.
Last point: as John says he is "replacing" the shock absorbers and springs then you might as well blow/cut the springs in half with an Oxy and take the tension right away.
Regards, Smooth
. Let me just say that I didn't post my initial reply on guess work. You can use spring compressors. Though depending on the brand you might have to shorten the length of the thread. The ones I use have been modified over and over a again to the point I can insert them and tighten with the rattle gun pretty easily. As for dealing with "Morons" they are everywhere. If newcomer Steve thinks I'm one good luck to him. I been called a lot worse! But, I'm not the one who doesn't know the difference between a crossmember and a subframe after claiming to be a mechanic or the one without tact.
anyway I'm not here to educate wannabees on how to show respect with tact when they think they know best, my response for was John and his original question. I "assumed" once apart the items would be cleaned, new parts fitted whilst being reassembled on the car. As per a normal rebuild. Posting straight after saying Spring Compressors can not be used is disrespectful and untrue.
Last point: as John says he is "replacing" the shock absorbers and springs then you might as well blow/cut the springs in half with an Oxy and take the tension right away.
Regards, Smooth
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ipg
yeah i was trying to find the post but i couldnt...stinky wrote:This was covered on the FE/FC forum a while ago too, but I used the same method as EK283 describes as the spring compressors I borrowed would not fit to do the job
i went to bunnings got some 3/8 threaded rod and 4 gal nuts to suit, cost me 8 bucks.
i used the 4 square washers 2mm steel that bolt under the front subframe, doubled them up for exdtra strength, 2 at the bottomwith to nuts on it so that they lock and wont undo.
remove the shock absorber.
slip the rod throught the bottom and drop the other 2 square washers on the rod and wind on the top nut to compress the spring.
before doing this i would undo the stub axle nuts a bit but not completely and crack the ball joints, because i found they were really difficult to get undone otherwise.
once the spring is compressed, remove the stubs and undo the upper and lower control arm nuts.
undo the top nut on the spring compressor to release everything.
voila!
Dead right Smooth I did try to use a bit of tact in my answer .I try to treat people the same way I'd like to be treated myself.
Everybody is entitled to their opinion on something and even though I didn't think your idea with the spring compressor would work, it was worth a go anyway and your years of experience are certainly worth listening to. I tried to express my difference of opinion as tactfully as I could without trying to put you or anyone down.Your opinion is as valued in my eyes as anyone elses.As you said, it worked for you so that is proof in that case.I agree,shortening the compressor thread might allow the compressor to fit and I actually had the same thought after I posted my last response.
This is a great forum and I wouldn't like to see any "flaming" going on as I've seen on another forum.Members leave when that happens.We all enjoy our FB/EK's and its great we are all out to help each other but I'd be disappointed to see it degrade and lose members.
I value the opinions of others and I make it a personal rule to try and not put down and ridicule someone's thoughts on a subject matter whether I agree with them or not.No one gets upset that way and the forum can continue on as a National online club ( so to speak) for FB/EKers where we all help each other and enjoy our cars.
These comments are not directed at anyone in particular and it isn't my intention to do so.
Lets all have a beer and help John get his springs out!
Terry.
.I try to treat people the same way I'd like to be treated myself.Everybody is entitled to their opinion on something and even though I didn't think your idea with the spring compressor would work, it was worth a go anyway and your years of experience are certainly worth listening to. I tried to express my difference of opinion as tactfully as I could without trying to put you or anyone down.Your opinion is as valued in my eyes as anyone elses.As you said, it worked for you so that is proof in that case.I agree,shortening the compressor thread might allow the compressor to fit and I actually had the same thought after I posted my last response.
This is a great forum and I wouldn't like to see any "flaming" going on as I've seen on another forum.Members leave when that happens.We all enjoy our FB/EK's and its great we are all out to help each other but I'd be disappointed to see it degrade and lose members.
I value the opinions of others and I make it a personal rule to try and not put down and ridicule someone's thoughts on a subject matter whether I agree with them or not.No one gets upset that way and the forum can continue on as a National online club ( so to speak) for FB/EKers where we all help each other and enjoy our cars.
These comments are not directed at anyone in particular and it isn't my intention to do so.
Lets all have a beer and help John get his springs out!
Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Girls, Girls, Girls
Lets not get testie now, I live with 2 of them and thats enough, I come onto this site to view and read with interest others pride and joys, and then there are the others who genuinely seek advise and help, They do this because they want to do it themselves, they seek the tips and tricks of the trade from the experianced and tinkerers that offer to give the advice on the site, one persons suggestion should not be ridiculed because he offered 1 way of doing it, even if it were right or wrong, safe or unsafe in proceedure, To me the idea of the site is to allow others to put across there ways in working around problems including the safety aspects and if there are discrepinsies others can intervene, but don't payout on them.
So with that off my chest,
I have used a steering Rack end for internal removal of springs, The ball joint at the end allows perfect swivel as the spring bows outward and the shaft is at least 10 times stronger than threaded bar from the Hardware shop, You can pick them up for nothing at Steering shops cause they just throw them out due to wear. A couple of HT nuts and a hardened washer, 3 mm plate for the spring end and Bobs your uncle.
Regards John
Lets not get testie now, I live with 2 of them and thats enough, I come onto this site to view and read with interest others pride and joys, and then there are the others who genuinely seek advise and help, They do this because they want to do it themselves, they seek the tips and tricks of the trade from the experianced and tinkerers that offer to give the advice on the site, one persons suggestion should not be ridiculed because he offered 1 way of doing it, even if it were right or wrong, safe or unsafe in proceedure, To me the idea of the site is to allow others to put across there ways in working around problems including the safety aspects and if there are discrepinsies others can intervene, but don't payout on them.
So with that off my chest,
I have used a steering Rack end for internal removal of springs, The ball joint at the end allows perfect swivel as the spring bows outward and the shaft is at least 10 times stronger than threaded bar from the Hardware shop, You can pick them up for nothing at Steering shops cause they just throw them out due to wear. A couple of HT nuts and a hardened washer, 3 mm plate for the spring end and Bobs your uncle.
Regards John