NOT
62 Special in SA - work continues
62 Special in SA - ADVICE NEEDED!
OPERATION MOTOR OUT.
Advice required!
The motor is coming out so that I can change my Y-frames to a nice rust free item.
I have drained all fluids (coolant, oil, fuel) and disconnected everything I can see and think of ie exhaust, throttle, choke, starter, generator, radiator, oil gen & temp light etc.
Still got to undo engine and gearbox mounts, clutch and tailshaft - anything else I'm missing?
I've got a week off coming up so I want to get the motor out, the front end out and the old Y-frames off so I can fix up the gearbox crossmember before putting it all back together.
Here's where I need some advice.
When removing the grey & gearbox as one, is it easier to do it with the wheels off & jacked up, sitting normally, or the wheels off and nose down?
Also, as I'm removing the complete engine and ancilliaries, what is the best way to sling the engine up to the hoist?
Any other advice anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated, this is the first time I've done anything like this.
Also, is it necessary to remove the front seat when welding the gearbox crossmember? Obviously the floor mat would need to come out but the seat is a fair way back from the crossmember so I'm wondering if it needs to be removed.
What do you do regarding fuel in the tank when welding on the vehicle (gearbox crossmember)? Do you empty the tank, remove the tank, just leave it in cos it's a fair way away from where I'm welding?
Jon
Advice required!
The motor is coming out so that I can change my Y-frames to a nice rust free item.
I have drained all fluids (coolant, oil, fuel) and disconnected everything I can see and think of ie exhaust, throttle, choke, starter, generator, radiator, oil gen & temp light etc.
Still got to undo engine and gearbox mounts, clutch and tailshaft - anything else I'm missing?
I've got a week off coming up so I want to get the motor out, the front end out and the old Y-frames off so I can fix up the gearbox crossmember before putting it all back together.
Here's where I need some advice.
When removing the grey & gearbox as one, is it easier to do it with the wheels off & jacked up, sitting normally, or the wheels off and nose down?
Also, as I'm removing the complete engine and ancilliaries, what is the best way to sling the engine up to the hoist?
Any other advice anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated, this is the first time I've done anything like this.
Also, is it necessary to remove the front seat when welding the gearbox crossmember? Obviously the floor mat would need to come out but the seat is a fair way back from the crossmember so I'm wondering if it needs to be removed.
What do you do regarding fuel in the tank when welding on the vehicle (gearbox crossmember)? Do you empty the tank, remove the tank, just leave it in cos it's a fair way away from where I'm welding?
Jon
Re: 62 Special in SA - ADVICE NEEDED!
Are you using an engine crane or block and tackle? Realistacly either way is probably easier with the wheels on as the car will roll easier than an engine crane or allow you to push out from under the block and tackle.paroharo wrote:OPERATION MOTOR OUT.
Advice required!
Here's where I need some advice.
When removing the grey & gearbox as one, is it easier to do it with the wheels off & jacked up, sitting normally, or the wheels off and nose down?
Also, as I'm removing the complete engine and ancilliaries, what is the best way to sling the engine up to the hoist?
Any other advice anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated, this is the first time I've done anything like this.
Slinging can be done a few ways but try and get an even balance when lifting or at least close to it.
Depends some times its better to be safe than sorry, your call.paroharo wrote:Also, is it necessary to remove the front seat when welding the gearbox crossmember? Obviously the floor mat would need to come out but the seat is a fair way back from the crossmember so I'm wondering if it needs to be removed.
Block the end you pulled of from the fuel pump and try not to heat the fuel line unnecesarrily.paroharo wrote:What do you do regarding fuel in the tank when welding on the vehicle (gearbox crossmember)? Do you empty the tank, remove the tank, just leave it in cos it's a fair way away from where I'm welding?
Jon
Oh yeah and remember its supposed to be fun...
Last edited by Devilrod on Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
Re: 62 Special in SA - ADVICE NEEDED!
I'm loving it!Devilrod wrote:Oh yeah and remember its supposed to be fun...
Just want to make sure I don't make any unnecessary mistakes!
Thanks for the tips guys, the motor & box came out easy as this morning.
No pics cause my internet is speed limited and it takes forever to load them up - dunno how the dial up guys do it.
Trying to get the front end out now and then the Y-frames are coming off ready for rust repairs to the floor and new Y-frames.
No pics cause my internet is speed limited
and it takes forever to load them up - dunno how the dial up guys do it.Trying to get the front end out now and then the Y-frames are coming off ready for rust repairs to the floor and new Y-frames.
You were even reminded!!!!robbyr wrote:Dont forget to undo speedo cable from gearbox
Good work getting it out though..... Now the fun starts...
The amount of projects which start by pulling the motor out for something simple and then spiral out of control... "Just got to whip the heads off to see if I can find why it's getting hot" springs to mind....... Oh dear...
Yes Officer..........I assure you that this roller bearing turbo and fuel injection were, in fact, factory fitted in 1961!!!
stock wrote:You were even reminded!!!!robbyr wrote:Dont forget to undo speedo cable from gearbox
Ummm I DID actually disconnect the speedo?!?! What makes you think I didn't??Tell me about it, now I'm thinking it would be silly to put it back together half done just so I can cruize it when it's already apart. Nooooooooooostock wrote: Good work getting it out though..... Now the fun starts...
The amount of projects which start by pulling the motor out for something simple and then spiral out of control... "Just got to whip the heads off to see if I can find why it's getting hot" springs to mind....... Oh dear...
Sorry mate, I was misinformed by your partner in crime!!paroharo wrote:
He's probably just jealous because you've got less rust than him!!
Yes Officer..........I assure you that this roller bearing turbo and fuel injection were, in fact, factory fitted in 1961!!!
MAJOR UPDATE!!
Well last time we heard, the motor & box were out...
Here's how...
The front end came off...
Meanwhile the interior came out, revealing many sins, but more on that later...
The RAT tried to redeem itself...
The Y-frames had to be cut off - the outer legs virtually fell off, but the bolts thru the inner legs were seized solid.
You can see here how bad the Y-frames were...
This one shows the hole in the firewall/floor
This one shows the mashed crossmember
So with the Y-frames off it was time to remove the dodgy crossmember by drilling out the spots...
The holes in the floor from inside...
So that brings us up to today, where I began to cut out the floor panels, ready for Rare Spares repair panels to go in. Making that first cut was the hardest, but really what could I do to make it worse! Just got to run along the sill with the angle grinder to get the driver's side out.
I got my new Y-frames blasted and put in etch primer by Steve at Adelaide Fast Blast.
I'm fabricating a new crossmember in three parts, ala EKSPCL - I folded up the outer sections and fabbed the centre section but I'm not 100% happy with the fit to the tunnel so might do it again.
Timbo (stock) supplied the HR drum brake front end, it's waiting for a clean up before going on.
And the reason for my recent flurry of activity?
Bought a Transmig 200. Sweeeeeeet.
Well last time we heard, the motor & box were out...
Here's how...
The front end came off...
Meanwhile the interior came out, revealing many sins, but more on that later...
The RAT tried to redeem itself...
The Y-frames had to be cut off - the outer legs virtually fell off, but the bolts thru the inner legs were seized solid.
You can see here how bad the Y-frames were...
This one shows the hole in the firewall/floor
This one shows the mashed crossmember
So with the Y-frames off it was time to remove the dodgy crossmember by drilling out the spots...
The holes in the floor from inside...
So that brings us up to today, where I began to cut out the floor panels, ready for Rare Spares repair panels to go in. Making that first cut was the hardest, but really what could I do to make it worse! Just got to run along the sill with the angle grinder to get the driver's side out.
I got my new Y-frames blasted and put in etch primer by Steve at Adelaide Fast Blast.
I'm fabricating a new crossmember in three parts, ala EKSPCL - I folded up the outer sections and fabbed the centre section but I'm not 100% happy with the fit to the tunnel so might do it again.
Timbo (stock) supplied the HR drum brake front end, it's waiting for a clean up before going on.
And the reason for my recent flurry of activity?
Bought a Transmig 200. Sweeeeeeet.
