V8EK4us- 383 SBC,4 link,Torana f/e - 12 months on...
Gary,
Great work mate.
How close do the wishbones actually get to the subframe and is the Torana front end norrower between the upper wishbones than the EK/HR ????
Just wondering cause I have allready got cut outs for the exhaust
I have been looking for a Torrie front end and power rack from a cortina but they are not easy to come by at this point in time.
Keep it up looking real good now.
Regards Greg
Great work mate.
How close do the wishbones actually get to the subframe and is the Torana front end norrower between the upper wishbones than the EK/HR ????
Just wondering cause I have allready got cut outs for the exhaust
I have been looking for a Torrie front end and power rack from a cortina but they are not easy to come by at this point in time.
Keep it up looking real good now.
Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
Thanks for the posts guys
John, the "black shit" is because I want to drive this car and not lock it away, hopefully by regular cleaning it will always look like new underneath aswell as on top
(wishfull thinking!).
Greg, yes the torana front is narrower between the upper wishbones, the measurements between wishbones are as follows:
HR - 730mm (rear of upper wishbone).
LH/LX Torana - 690mm (end of upper wishbone shim bolt 705mm to end of wishbone). UC torana may be different due to the RTS (Radial Tuned Suspension).
Measurement across "new notched section" of EK subframe - 676mm giving 7mm per side clearance on the shim bolts, they could be cut back to give more room as they are much longer than required.
You could get away with less of an opening for the alignment adjustment if it will clash with the exhaust.
I am going to make my own manifold and pipes that will be totally different to any others I have seen, They will not be going through the guards (anyone need a set of CRS "through guard extractors"?)


John, the "black shit" is because I want to drive this car and not lock it away, hopefully by regular cleaning it will always look like new underneath aswell as on top

Greg, yes the torana front is narrower between the upper wishbones, the measurements between wishbones are as follows:
HR - 730mm (rear of upper wishbone).
LH/LX Torana - 690mm (end of upper wishbone shim bolt 705mm to end of wishbone). UC torana may be different due to the RTS (Radial Tuned Suspension).
Measurement across "new notched section" of EK subframe - 676mm giving 7mm per side clearance on the shim bolts, they could be cut back to give more room as they are much longer than required.
You could get away with less of an opening for the alignment adjustment if it will clash with the exhaust.
I am going to make my own manifold and pipes that will be totally different to any others I have seen, They will not be going through the guards (anyone need a set of CRS "through guard extractors"?)
Last edited by V8EK4us on Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 99
- Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:11 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Hobart
Thanks for the posts fellow forumers
....
bigalhusband, that is one very nice engine bay
, the bloke that owns that must be very happy to say the least!!!!
I have done the "mini tub" (remove section between guard and chassis rail to make sure the 295's don't rub). Although the diff fitted into to "original" hump, it would have been squeezy for the other bits running through there and the old shocky mounts needed to go
. Soooo, I cut the whole lot out and made up a new hump out of 1.6mm black steel sheet. I made up some new plates to support the bac of the seat out of 1.6mm also.
Mini tub job - now takes the tubbing to 260mm.



Fabed up this section to give more clearance for exhaust, coilover shocks etc.....



Tacked in:

Finished, the box secion will support the fuel tank and also have the Coilover shock mounts (on the inside of the hump):




bigalhusband, that is one very nice engine bay




I have done the "mini tub" (remove section between guard and chassis rail to make sure the 295's don't rub). Although the diff fitted into to "original" hump, it would have been squeezy for the other bits running through there and the old shocky mounts needed to go

Mini tub job - now takes the tubbing to 260mm.



Fabed up this section to give more clearance for exhaust, coilover shocks etc.....



Tacked in:

Finished, the box secion will support the fuel tank and also have the Coilover shock mounts (on the inside of the hump):



Thanks for the post Pauly and DR.
Coilovers turned up and have had their first trial fit
. They are "Strange" billet alloy shocks with 250 lb "QA1" coils.



Didn't like the small guages (2 1/16" Autometer) in the cluster so I have upgraded them to 2 5/8", had to use a Speco tacho because Autometer don't do one this size
, fits alot better
.

Coilovers turned up and have had their first trial fit




Didn't like the small guages (2 1/16" Autometer) in the cluster so I have upgraded them to 2 5/8", had to use a Speco tacho because Autometer don't do one this size



Last edited by V8EK4us on Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 400
- Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:56 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Darwin NT
- Sammy
- Posts: 664
- Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 3:06 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Tenambit, NSW.
- Contact:
very interested to see how you've done the gauges as i want to fill my cluster with something that will work with a commodore wiring harness and sensors .... is the fuel sender the original fb/ek one ... im keen to know if a new gauge will work with an old sender ?
keep up the good work, its starting to really take shape!
keep up the good work, its starting to really take shape!
Regards,
Sammy.
http://www.oldholdens.com
Sammy.
http://www.oldholdens.com
Cheers for the posts guys! I can see some light (dim, but it's there
) at the end of the tunnel........ very happy and it's thanks to the forum members for the comments that create the drive to keep this project going
, thanks heaps!.
( this will plug straight into the VN SS commonwhore steering column I have fitted to the EK, which is just a bloody bonus, one less job to do!).
In regards to the fuel gauge, the original sender "old style" will work with a "modern gauge" as long as the sender "ohms" (ohms is resistance) range/readings are what the "gauge" requires, other than the 12 volts this is the only other parameters that the gauge/sender combo requires to work (other than wire
)
. I am fitting a new sender that is Empty/ Full, 240 Ohms/ 33 Ohms and the new Autometer gauge to suit this ohm range (many ranges available). From memory the EK standard sender is 0 - 30 ohms (I stand corrected if wrong
) so you would need to have a gauge that is the same "ohms range" empty to full, or change the sender to suit. The same goes for the temp' gauge etc..... if you buy the gauge to match the "ohms" reading of the sensor then she's thumbs up on the dash!!(gauges and senders are available in many ranges).




Sammy, I am using the wiring harness out of the VN SS including the main fuse panel etc.... stay tunedSammy wrote:very interested to see how you've done the gauges as i want to fill my cluster with something that will work with a commodore wiring harness and sensors .... is the fuel sender the original fb/ek one ... im keen to know if a new gauge will work with an old sender ?
keep up the good work, its starting to really take shape!

In regards to the fuel gauge, the original sender "old style" will work with a "modern gauge" as long as the sender "ohms" (ohms is resistance) range/readings are what the "gauge" requires, other than the 12 volts this is the only other parameters that the gauge/sender combo requires to work (other than wire


