i'm trying to work out what radiator to use with my hot 186. i'm not sure if i want to get an aluminium one or stainless.
i've been told not to use aluminium with a steel engine for some reason, has anyone heard of this? if so why shouldn't you use one?
any help would be great.
L&K
radiator decisions
Aluminium with plastic tanks is used nearly universally today in factory fitted cars and seems to last for a fair while if the appropriate coolant/inhibitor ratio is used.I hate the plastic tanks but the spare parts shops love them because they crack and split or leak eventually and you'll need a new radiator from them in time.An all ally radiator would be better.
I haven't heard the aluminium versus steel conflict problem, and I'd say there wouldn't be any clash between the two metals if the right coolant/inhibitor percentage is used.
I'm not a metalurgist though
.
If I had a wad of cash and wanted to choose between the two then I suppose I'd pick stainless for its durability unless your after weight reduction then try aluminium I guess.
I stick to the good old black painted brass/copper radiators.
I haven't heard the aluminium versus steel conflict problem, and I'd say there wouldn't be any clash between the two metals if the right coolant/inhibitor percentage is used.
I'm not a metalurgist though
.If I had a wad of cash and wanted to choose between the two then I suppose I'd pick stainless for its durability unless your after weight reduction then try aluminium I guess.
I stick to the good old black painted brass/copper radiators.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
I'm with you Terry, it is certainly an investment to go with aluminium or stainless..... looks pretty but when it comes down to it - guess I'm just old school...... copper and brass have worked for many years - it's the maintenance (or lack of) which usually causes failure.......
Haven't heard of anyone successfully soldering a plastic tank back together yet..... guess this gives "specialists" a monopoly.......
Coolants - yes - even maybe not just for old red/grey blocks - but certainly for some of the add-ons.......
I use it - and can think of no reason not to recommend it ...... but I'm known to treat my old bus with almost overkill.........
We seem to get cooling system threads come up in summer - I'm sure there are more to come..... haven't quite got to the 40 deg days here yet.......
Last post I recall was to do with radiator fans...... and a probable blocked radiator....... any luck, Andrew.....
frats,
Rosco
Haven't heard of anyone successfully soldering a plastic tank back together yet..... guess this gives "specialists" a monopoly.......
Coolants - yes - even maybe not just for old red/grey blocks - but certainly for some of the add-ons.......
I use it - and can think of no reason not to recommend it ...... but I'm known to treat my old bus with almost overkill.........
We seem to get cooling system threads come up in summer - I'm sure there are more to come..... haven't quite got to the 40 deg days here yet.......
Last post I recall was to do with radiator fans...... and a probable blocked radiator....... any luck, Andrew.....
frats,
Rosco
Guys,
This is what I have been told, the aluminium / steel acts like a cathode and creats eddie currents which will eat the lesser strength alloy. You can overcome this by making sure the radiator is correctly earthed eliminating any stray currents and you should actually measure it with a meter. I read up on this some time ago on the net and it had all the pictures and what to do etc (cant remember the site).
A correct coolant is also mandatory. The aluminium is good to save weight and if compared to copper will be on par.
Most people that have overheating problems buy a new alloy radiator that is bigger than the old clogged copper one then say its cured the problem.
I would go alloy over S/S as it will be a little cheaper. I dont ever recall seeing a S/S radiator before either.
Regards Greg
This is what I have been told, the aluminium / steel acts like a cathode and creats eddie currents which will eat the lesser strength alloy. You can overcome this by making sure the radiator is correctly earthed eliminating any stray currents and you should actually measure it with a meter. I read up on this some time ago on the net and it had all the pictures and what to do etc (cant remember the site).
A correct coolant is also mandatory. The aluminium is good to save weight and if compared to copper will be on par.
Most people that have overheating problems buy a new alloy radiator that is bigger than the old clogged copper one then say its cured the problem.
I would go alloy over S/S as it will be a little cheaper. I dont ever recall seeing a S/S radiator before either.
Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
then there's plan B.....
I know of one member in our club who has successfully gained "peace" with an over-heating engine by fitting a "tropical" core radiator.
I am of the opinion the core is slightly thicker - they have more sets of tubes and finer fins.....
After I put the red in mine I used my (recently re-cored) EK radiator but removed the water pump fan (for more power......probably a lot less noise but no distinct power gain) - I couldn't keep it cool with the thermo fan.... went to a "specialist" and they modified up a new XW/XY to fit...... didn't come close - was probably worse than the orig....
What I did note with the "specialists suggestion" radiator was that the tubes were very sparse and fins coarsely spread.......
I put up with it for many years until I saw another EK with a late model radiator - "fitted straight in" I was told - "have to cut away the baffle out to where the sub-frame rails are and change the thermostat housing outlet to a horizontal one...... but that's all".....
Made the cuts, welded in some support braces behind the baffle, put in a standard HK/T/G six radiator, changed the thermo housing and used the following...
Upper hose - Mackay CH 787 (186 w/o air con)
Lower hose - Mackay CH 590 OEM 7423445
Thermostat - Tridon TT1-180 - Holden 1971/82 - OEM GRH608
Haven't looked back.... but also use the water pump fan......
If you have the Kryal Kastings alloy rocker cover/side plates - they also make a thermo housing cover from the same material.... it will polish up to match the set.
Thermo's may work fine and indeed afford better power/economy.... I prefer the "comfort" of knowing it's working....... the gen light will come on if the fan-belt breaks......
frats,
Rosco
I know of one member in our club who has successfully gained "peace" with an over-heating engine by fitting a "tropical" core radiator.
I am of the opinion the core is slightly thicker - they have more sets of tubes and finer fins.....
After I put the red in mine I used my (recently re-cored) EK radiator but removed the water pump fan (for more power......probably a lot less noise but no distinct power gain) - I couldn't keep it cool with the thermo fan.... went to a "specialist" and they modified up a new XW/XY to fit...... didn't come close - was probably worse than the orig....
What I did note with the "specialists suggestion" radiator was that the tubes were very sparse and fins coarsely spread.......
I put up with it for many years until I saw another EK with a late model radiator - "fitted straight in" I was told - "have to cut away the baffle out to where the sub-frame rails are and change the thermostat housing outlet to a horizontal one...... but that's all".....
Made the cuts, welded in some support braces behind the baffle, put in a standard HK/T/G six radiator, changed the thermo housing and used the following...
Upper hose - Mackay CH 787 (186 w/o air con)
Lower hose - Mackay CH 590 OEM 7423445
Thermostat - Tridon TT1-180 - Holden 1971/82 - OEM GRH608
Haven't looked back.... but also use the water pump fan......
If you have the Kryal Kastings alloy rocker cover/side plates - they also make a thermo housing cover from the same material.... it will polish up to match the set.
Thermo's may work fine and indeed afford better power/economy.... I prefer the "comfort" of knowing it's working....... the gen light will come on if the fan-belt breaks......
frats,
Rosco