besides, nothing like having a crazy windstorm blow up and a huge branch fall on your car and your insurer saying "oh yeah...branches that drop due to bad winds aren't covered...sorry 'bout that"
J's EK doin some foolay siek skidz bro (vid)
Oh insurance has come to a sad state ey? jhahaha so funnyOldnblue wrote:lol...these days you never can tell. The way the weather's going, you can't guarantee anything.
besides, nothing like having a crazy windstorm blow up and a huge branch fall on your car and your insurer saying "oh yeah...branches that drop due to bad winds aren't covered...sorry 'bout that"
Craig wrote: Andrew you have a red so I wouldn't race it
Just one point to make on WA hail - we hope to see your vehicles over here from time to time and it does hail here...............sometimes the size of golf balls - don't let this deter you from trekking over - what a trip to enjoy.....!
Insurance (cont'd)
Had an uncomfortable feeling after posting that last message that I'd forgotten something -it woke me up in the middle of the night and I am going to air my opinion and thoughts on the matter further ..............
If you are ever unfortunate enough to have some irresponsible and thoughtless moron injure your pride and joy J, there's worse to come - when you go to have it repaired...............
Unless your policy states, some companies - and there are a large number of them who other people use, will have repairs done by their own preferred repairer - by golly, J - I have seen some absolute "crap" repairs done by professionals - insurance companies use them to reduce costs - these repairers will by no means make any effort to preserve your car - it's really a bog and makeover with paint........... you will find in a very short time that what they tried to cover comes back and you are worse off than the original damage (rust, grinding, and a whole heap of banging around willy nilly)........... never, never, never accept or sign for a car which has been hosed and not dried - it's a cheap trick to hide bad blending of paint...............
Make sure your chosen insurer gives you choice of repairer...........
And find one who understands what restored/vintage/preserved vehicle involves..........and the guarantee of the repair - you intend to keep this a long, long time - J, don't you?
Which brings me to the other point I forgot..........
I think you can appreciate these days that it doesn't take much damage for the insurance company to declare the vehicle as a "write-off"........
Those words ought to bring fear to any owner of a restored/vintage/preserved vehicle....................
Most companies will write off a vehicle when damage exceeds 80/85% of the value of the vehicle - I bet this is starting to swing you now towards an agreed value comprehensive policy................
Try and present the car as best you can and hopefully you will have enough cover to keep it insured if damaged - once a vehicle is written off - I fear you will lose it - ie can't be kept on the road......... just becomes a parts car unless you run the gauntlet of risking being un-insured..........
Many years ago, just after getting his driver's license, my son was hit from behind by a bloke who didn't "see" him - you've got to learn to drive with a quarter of you vision on the mirror these days.....
Some hoon dragged this bloke off at a set of lights then they switched lanes only to leave the other car plough into the back of my son's which was waiting to do a right turn against oncoming traffic.......... (my thoughts again on "sport" on our roads are of substance, J).
We presented the little car for a quote at the bloke's insurance company's assessment centre - and was told repairs exceeded the value of the car - some $2,000 - they would pay it out as a write off and we would lose the car........... my son still owed nearly $3,000 on a loan for it - this would not only have left him with a remaining debt of nearly $1,0000 but now without transport, reg etc and the hassle of finding a replacement which he needed for work............ plus till having to pay off the original loan or extending it to get another............. see what I now mean by a new world.......
We opted to have the vehicle repaired ourselves, found a cheap repairer (as suggested by the insurance company) had a dodgey job done but quickly but kept it on the road. He sold it when the loan was paid out - poor kid drove around in what used to be the pride and joy of his life in a "budget repair" eyesore - cringing every time he drove past an RACV Insurance sign...............
Just a few words to put the fear of reality on the table for you, J
So, if you heed my words - get as much cover as you can afford - agreed value, salvage rights and enjoy, but take every opportunity to preserve both yourself and your lovely pride...............
frats,
Rosco
Insurance (cont'd)
Had an uncomfortable feeling after posting that last message that I'd forgotten something -it woke me up in the middle of the night and I am going to air my opinion and thoughts on the matter further ..............
If you are ever unfortunate enough to have some irresponsible and thoughtless moron injure your pride and joy J, there's worse to come - when you go to have it repaired...............
Unless your policy states, some companies - and there are a large number of them who other people use, will have repairs done by their own preferred repairer - by golly, J - I have seen some absolute "crap" repairs done by professionals - insurance companies use them to reduce costs - these repairers will by no means make any effort to preserve your car - it's really a bog and makeover with paint........... you will find in a very short time that what they tried to cover comes back and you are worse off than the original damage (rust, grinding, and a whole heap of banging around willy nilly)........... never, never, never accept or sign for a car which has been hosed and not dried - it's a cheap trick to hide bad blending of paint...............
Make sure your chosen insurer gives you choice of repairer...........
And find one who understands what restored/vintage/preserved vehicle involves..........and the guarantee of the repair - you intend to keep this a long, long time - J, don't you?
Which brings me to the other point I forgot..........
I think you can appreciate these days that it doesn't take much damage for the insurance company to declare the vehicle as a "write-off"........
Those words ought to bring fear to any owner of a restored/vintage/preserved vehicle....................
Most companies will write off a vehicle when damage exceeds 80/85% of the value of the vehicle - I bet this is starting to swing you now towards an agreed value comprehensive policy................
Try and present the car as best you can and hopefully you will have enough cover to keep it insured if damaged - once a vehicle is written off - I fear you will lose it - ie can't be kept on the road......... just becomes a parts car unless you run the gauntlet of risking being un-insured..........
Many years ago, just after getting his driver's license, my son was hit from behind by a bloke who didn't "see" him - you've got to learn to drive with a quarter of you vision on the mirror these days.....
Some hoon dragged this bloke off at a set of lights then they switched lanes only to leave the other car plough into the back of my son's which was waiting to do a right turn against oncoming traffic.......... (my thoughts again on "sport" on our roads are of substance, J).
We presented the little car for a quote at the bloke's insurance company's assessment centre - and was told repairs exceeded the value of the car - some $2,000 - they would pay it out as a write off and we would lose the car........... my son still owed nearly $3,000 on a loan for it - this would not only have left him with a remaining debt of nearly $1,0000 but now without transport, reg etc and the hassle of finding a replacement which he needed for work............ plus till having to pay off the original loan or extending it to get another............. see what I now mean by a new world.......
We opted to have the vehicle repaired ourselves, found a cheap repairer (as suggested by the insurance company) had a dodgey job done but quickly but kept it on the road. He sold it when the loan was paid out - poor kid drove around in what used to be the pride and joy of his life in a "budget repair" eyesore - cringing every time he drove past an RACV Insurance sign...............
Just a few words to put the fear of reality on the table for you, J
So, if you heed my words - get as much cover as you can afford - agreed value, salvage rights and enjoy, but take every opportunity to preserve both yourself and your lovely pride...............
frats,
Rosco
Rosco
Couldn't agree more about salvage rights. Companies like Shannons offer that as fairly standard when insuring classic/collectable vehicles, but still something to make sure is written in the policy.
I think it's always worth remembering that what makes insurance so worthwile is the simple fact that while each of us may just be great drivers, everyone else on the road may just be absolute twats...
Cheers, Scott
Couldn't agree more about salvage rights. Companies like Shannons offer that as fairly standard when insuring classic/collectable vehicles, but still something to make sure is written in the policy.
I think it's always worth remembering that what makes insurance so worthwile is the simple fact that while each of us may just be great drivers, everyone else on the road may just be absolute twats...
Cheers, Scott
Hi J,
you can remove the verticals, but as Trev suggests they are part of the grille.
I removed mine for a few years but put them back - you will "personalise" your car as you want, but these are part of the protection built in for the radiator............. mine looked pretty cool - see "My FB/EK" under Rosco
If you want them out, there is a bit of work to be done - go under the guards - you'll find three small bolts facing the front of the car - these hold the indicator moulding on - but there is also a nut fitted behind the indicator area as well - make sure you spray some CRC-56, RP-7 or similar onto all of these before attempting to remove them - the bolts go into the white-metal moulding, the nut onto a steel threaded shaft.
Be careful as you remove these - the moulding will "fall" down and may damage the lens or moulding as it hits over-riders on the way down.
When you have both of these laying away from the grill, undo all the bots from the underside of the stone-tray - the nuts should remain "captive" within the lower part of the verticals - my guess...... some of them will be rusted.
Finally remove the bolts acros the top of the verticals - leave one on each side finger tight so that an assistant and yourself can remove them whilst holding the grille assembly in place.
The grille should "pull" away - it is finally held in place by three ribs on the outer baffle (front panel) at the ends - be very careful not to bend the horizontal "blades" as you pry them off these ribs.
If you want to remove them - be very, very careful opening up those tangs which hold the verticals in place - as you pull one off - mark it internally with Texta - so that when (and you will some time) put the grille back together, it all goes back where it came from - I marked mine O L (outer left) L 1 ( next in from left) and so forth. I also marked the blades as Top centre, and lower - you may not think this relevant at present but in time (somewhere when I'm no longer able to plague you with my posts) you'll remember and appreciate having done this ......
All grille components are stainless steel - they will not rust but a good buff will bring them back to a deep lustre.
You may wish to consider replacing the bolts with stainless.
It is a finicky job to pull one apart and try and re-fit it.
One other thing, J - if the verticals are removed, there will be gaping holes in the blades - I bet you break off many of those tangs...............
Try painting the verticals with a matt paint first - from a distance there will probably be very little difference..........
When you come to re-fitting the bolts to the moulding, coat the threads with some anti-seize - you'll appreciate this down the track as well.......
Another screen of "ink" for you J, hope some of it helps...
frats,
Rosco
you can remove the verticals, but as Trev suggests they are part of the grille.
I removed mine for a few years but put them back - you will "personalise" your car as you want, but these are part of the protection built in for the radiator............. mine looked pretty cool - see "My FB/EK" under Rosco
If you want them out, there is a bit of work to be done - go under the guards - you'll find three small bolts facing the front of the car - these hold the indicator moulding on - but there is also a nut fitted behind the indicator area as well - make sure you spray some CRC-56, RP-7 or similar onto all of these before attempting to remove them - the bolts go into the white-metal moulding, the nut onto a steel threaded shaft.
Be careful as you remove these - the moulding will "fall" down and may damage the lens or moulding as it hits over-riders on the way down.
When you have both of these laying away from the grill, undo all the bots from the underside of the stone-tray - the nuts should remain "captive" within the lower part of the verticals - my guess...... some of them will be rusted.
Finally remove the bolts acros the top of the verticals - leave one on each side finger tight so that an assistant and yourself can remove them whilst holding the grille assembly in place.
The grille should "pull" away - it is finally held in place by three ribs on the outer baffle (front panel) at the ends - be very careful not to bend the horizontal "blades" as you pry them off these ribs.
If you want to remove them - be very, very careful opening up those tangs which hold the verticals in place - as you pull one off - mark it internally with Texta - so that when (and you will some time) put the grille back together, it all goes back where it came from - I marked mine O L (outer left) L 1 ( next in from left) and so forth. I also marked the blades as Top centre, and lower - you may not think this relevant at present but in time (somewhere when I'm no longer able to plague you with my posts) you'll remember and appreciate having done this ......
All grille components are stainless steel - they will not rust but a good buff will bring them back to a deep lustre.
You may wish to consider replacing the bolts with stainless.
It is a finicky job to pull one apart and try and re-fit it.
One other thing, J - if the verticals are removed, there will be gaping holes in the blades - I bet you break off many of those tangs...............
Try painting the verticals with a matt paint first - from a distance there will probably be very little difference..........
When you come to re-fitting the bolts to the moulding, coat the threads with some anti-seize - you'll appreciate this down the track as well.......
Another screen of "ink" for you J, hope some of it helps...
frats,
Rosco
kustom grill the poor kid way
yea the flash makes it look shit, but it actually looks pretty good if your not up close...
I'm going to my school in it tonight, burnsy left these with it so I figured I should put this there in case i forget which car is mine.
oh yea and it looks good next to my lowrider
yea the flash makes it look shit, but it actually looks pretty good if your not up close...
I'm going to my school in it tonight, burnsy left these with it so I figured I should put this there in case i forget which car is mine.
oh yea and it looks good next to my lowrider
J - you're about 35 years behind me - I did the very same thing the first time - insulation tape - it will last (unless the adhesive has progressed significantly in that time) about a month before it starts to lift, peel and flap around - I found mat black paint (after a really good clean with acetone - don't let any drip onto your paintwork) lasts for a few years............
Bet that low-rider gets a bit neglected when you start to pedal the new wheels.................
frats,
Rosco
Bet that low-rider gets a bit neglected when you start to pedal the new wheels.................
frats,
Rosco
-
mrs ratbox
been thinking about the grill. Because it changes the look of the car and is pretty cheap to do.
this is the cruizin fb:
how would you remove the indicator chrome surrounding it? It looks like its attached to the chrome above?
I would keep the dimple things on the bumper, hide the indicators behind mesh and clip the chrome bard directly to it instead of drilling holes in the body.
Like this:
this is the cruizin fb:
how would you remove the indicator chrome surrounding it? It looks like its attached to the chrome above?
I would keep the dimple things on the bumper, hide the indicators behind mesh and clip the chrome bard directly to it instead of drilling holes in the body.
Like this:
J,
The ones on murray's old FB are simply that - from an FB (the indicator and chrome are seperate)
I unfortuanetly got to see this car nicely banged up in a wreckers yard a few years back, dents alround, really mistreated.
I had some photo's of it but cant find them however, it did turn up at the national day owned by some rockabilly folk last year, when i was riding with burnsy
This is the good side.
and here was burnsy car
Cheers
NoMAD
The ones on murray's old FB are simply that - from an FB (the indicator and chrome are seperate)
I unfortuanetly got to see this car nicely banged up in a wreckers yard a few years back, dents alround, really mistreated.
I had some photo's of it but cant find them however, it did turn up at the national day owned by some rockabilly folk last year, when i was riding with burnsy
This is the good side.
and here was burnsy car
Cheers
NoMAD