Hi Brett. I am trying to understand the issue you describe. Any movement of the upper inner wishbone pivots relative to the rest of the suspension will change the caster and/or camber settings, impacting the handling and tyre wear. Sorry if this is obvious, or I am missing something. You might need to check the settings again after reassembly.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
Project 2.
Project 2.
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Project 2.
Sorry, I will try to make it clearer. My issue was that the wishbones were not installed so that the bushes were evenly spaced. In one case it was so much to one side that there was no clearance between the bush cup ( and nipple outlet) and the shaft, so no grease could get past.
I didn't discuss wheel alignment but, camber and toe in/ out wouldn't change at all by reinstalling the bushes, only caster was at risk and I have that sorted.
Hope that helps
I didn't discuss wheel alignment but, camber and toe in/ out wouldn't change at all by reinstalling the bushes, only caster was at risk and I have that sorted.
Hope that helps
Sucker for a rusty bomb
Re: Project 2.
Yep,
Ive had the same, although the metal bushes screw hard up against the control arm itself the issue is the amount of thread engaged on the pin.
They should be equal. I can't honestly remember but i think you can turn the pin and that moves it left or right.
Anyway problem solved by the looks of things.
Greg
Ive had the same, although the metal bushes screw hard up against the control arm itself the issue is the amount of thread engaged on the pin.
They should be equal. I can't honestly remember but i think you can turn the pin and that moves it left or right.
Anyway problem solved by the looks of things.
Greg
So many cars so little time!
Re: Project 2.
Nope.
You can't turn the pin unless it's stuffed.
What you have to do is screw out the bushes on both sides, position the arm in the centre so the spacing from the tower is equal ( hence the use of Harv's spacer tool to make it easy if you have one ) and then you screw the bushes back in, trying not to let the wishbone move sideways. Without spacers, this generally takes a few tries to get it right, but quite doable. I did my lower ones without any spacer tools.
In order to avoid dissapointment and lots of naughty words, it's a job that requires time, and a good frame of mind. Think "Zen and the motorbike mechanic".
I forgot to mention, the factory recommended lubricant on the shaft and inside the bushes is gearbox oil. I had some left over Penrite semi- liquid steering box grease and it works very well.
You can't turn the pin unless it's stuffed.
What you have to do is screw out the bushes on both sides, position the arm in the centre so the spacing from the tower is equal ( hence the use of Harv's spacer tool to make it easy if you have one ) and then you screw the bushes back in, trying not to let the wishbone move sideways. Without spacers, this generally takes a few tries to get it right, but quite doable. I did my lower ones without any spacer tools.
In order to avoid dissapointment and lots of naughty words, it's a job that requires time, and a good frame of mind. Think "Zen and the motorbike mechanic".
I forgot to mention, the factory recommended lubricant on the shaft and inside the bushes is gearbox oil. I had some left over Penrite semi- liquid steering box grease and it works very well.
Sucker for a rusty bomb
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In the Shed
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- State: SA
- Location: South Australia
Re: Project 2.
Hey Brett,
Your springs being 75mm shorter than standard seems a lot, however if they are stiffer then I presume there is less compression as you lower the weight of the car back on the front end. In any event your Ute sits nice.
On my original king pin front end there is only a thin plastic washer that sits on top of the spring as an insulator. Your springs have a much thicker insulator.
I know what you mean when you pay someone to do something and it ends up being half baked
. Where I can I’d prefer to have a crack myself and learn something along the way, as I did with my front end (king pins, springs, tie rods etc).
Stephen
Your springs being 75mm shorter than standard seems a lot, however if they are stiffer then I presume there is less compression as you lower the weight of the car back on the front end. In any event your Ute sits nice.
On my original king pin front end there is only a thin plastic washer that sits on top of the spring as an insulator. Your springs have a much thicker insulator.
I know what you mean when you pay someone to do something and it ends up being half baked
. Where I can I’d prefer to have a crack myself and learn something along the way, as I did with my front end (king pins, springs, tie rods etc). Stephen
A day in the shed beats a day at work!
Re: Project 2.
Yes, agree with you about doing it yourself and learning as you go. In this case I wanted the bottom ball joints replaced and didn't have the gear to do it. So, thought might as well get them to do the lot.
Sucker for a rusty bomb