Chev EK

[EK283]

4/ Engine / firewall to close drivers side, this is my fault I lifted the engine to gain 10mm everywhere else but forgot that bit. Painted and nice as well, mmmm I'll have to think about that one.

What is defined as too close Greg? My 202 has the seam that joins the top and bottom of the firewall folded down to stop it fouling.

10mm is the distance and i had that but decided to lift the motor at the mounts to give it more room for side to side movement. Unfortunately this has now moved it closed to the firewall right at the steering plate hole. i did remove the lip earlier in the build and of course its painted. If i lowered the motor back down i will loose the sump clearance etc etc.

I am at this point contemplating a bigger booster so if i go down this path then I will fix it properly.

I have already done the rear springs with an original main leaf so it sits 25mm higher, solves another issue I had with the Caltracs and adjustment with ground clearance.

Now for some good mufflers but its difficult getting info on loudness, there are ball park figures but I don't want to shell out 500 bucks for a new set for it to fail again !!!!!

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At least i know my sway bar works and a trick for getting the spring back into its position (make sure its hardwood if your going to do it !).

So I have a pair of hot rolled reversed eye main leaves, they lower the car 25mm without loosing any suspension travel or using lowering blocks. I can no longer use them but am willing to swap for a pair of standard main leaves should anyone be interested.

Greg

[Errol62]

Hey Greg I'm your man

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[Errol62]

Bring them to Nuriootpa?

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[FireKraka]

Hi Greg what is the bore diameter on the Gemini master cylinder, my pedal was very firm the first time I went for licensing had to change the master to smaller bore and because of the cam in the engine not enough vacuum so unfortunately vacuum pump and large tank and now upgraded to VT Calipers and discs and a great improvement.

[Harv]

Gemini masters varied in volume, but typically less than 1" (eg. TE petrol engine was 13/16"). I suspect Greg has a 1" master (probably XA/B/C &*#@) coupled up to the small diameter Gemini booster.

Cheers,
Harv

[EK283]

Gemini masters varied in volume, but typically less than 1" (eg. TE petrol engine was 13/16"). I suspect Greg has a 1" master (probably XA/B/C &*#@) coupled up to the small diameter Gemini booster.

Cheers,
Harv

Correct, that’s exactly what I have.
I’ve been thinking a bit about this and have come up with some ideas. First I will check the vacuum force and do some calcs. Something else that occurred to me is I have to check the pedal ratio, it might give me some more force if I extend it. I actually never checked it !!!
If that fails then on to a bigger booster, I have the gas strut hinges so I can move everything over to get a bigger booster in. Not ideal but it must be done, if I’m lucky I can cover the old holes with a bracket or plate and make it look like it should be there. Brake lines might be a pain !!!
Keep you all posted
Greg

[Brett027]

Hi Greg, my engineer insisted on a dual diaphragm 7inch booster. It cost bout $150. I was going to go down the Gemini booster path and had bought one, but when I suggested it he laughed at me and firmly said no. Anyone wanting a Gemini booster and master cylinder -you know where to find one...

[Harv]

Something else that occurred to me is I have to check the pedal ratio, it might give me some more force if I extend it. I actually never checked it !!!

Not sure if you've still got the factory pedal assembly, but it is 5:1. Pretty effective (most references recommend at least 4:1 and preferably 4.5:1).

Cheers,
Harv

[EK283]

Thanks Harv,

Pedal length is ok so I tested the vacuum. I have a gauge for this but i am not sure why ?? I have never used it before nor do i remember where it came from ( must be loosing my mind ).

Anyway at 1000rpm I have 15 in hg so this should be enough to get the booster working.

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I have decided to go down the dual diaghram booster route but in 8 inch to be sure.

So far I have done the rear springs, made up 3 of the 4 heat shield required, sussed out the firewall clearance ( I have to pull the column back out to get access to it and that will happen when my booster arrives ) . I have also ordered some new mufflers and hope they are quiet enough ???? Not a great deal of info on the net about muffler decibel readings unfortunately but I have a plan B if these don't work.

Greg

[FireKraka]

Hey Greg I was only getting 14" vacuum and it was not enough, originally the chrome master I had was 1 1/8" and the guys said it felt wooden, VP VP commodore are 15/16" smallest chrome one I could get was 1" and I have a 7" double diaphragm booster the trouble running of just the manifold with low vacuum like us (and I bring Harv in there as well) I've been told that there is just not enough when you apply the brakes once or twice.
I posted to Harv when he was having the issue and decided to disconnect from the manifold all together and go with just vacuum pump, the kit came with a 1 litre tank even though I had 20" vacuum it was not enough so added a larger tank in line with the smaller one after speaking to Hoppers.
If I went down to a 15/16" master my brakes would be perfect, my VT upgrade has improved them greatly.
Interested to see where you end up with this Greg

[EK283]

Thanks Neil,

Still toying with alternatives. I am going to try a 8 inch dual diaphragm booster first then go the pump if it fails. I have a bit of an advantage although as I have drum rears which don't require as much pressure as 4 wheel discs, I will keep you posted.

I lashed out and bought some big mufflers, finished them yesterday and did a quick test with a phone noise meter (not sure how accurate).
I ended up with readings of 86DB at 3.5 meters away and 91DB at 1m away and that was in the shed as well ! Fingers crossed.

The mufflers are Flowmaster chambered 50 series, they are quite big but still give the car the V8 rumble only much quieter.

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Chipping away !!

[Errol62]

Good work. If you are driving to SA you may be glad of something a bit quieter.

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[EK283]

So plugging away, not much more to do. Waiting on some sight glass, plastic for the master cylinder. There is no real info whether or not they won't be affected by brake fluid.

I thought i would start the booster today, looks shit and I dare say Chinese crap but there isn't any real choice without spending days measuring and trilling.

Firstly I had to make up a longer pin for the pushrod to suit the XB master, the chinkanese pin has a small knurled lock nut and I wonder how you would lock it in without destroying it, it was loose when i took it out.
I made a new one with a high tensile cap bolt, rounded to suit the master and enough allen to tighten with a proper lock nut. The allen head can hold some grease which is a bonus.

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Unfortunately the bolt hole spacings are 86mm as apposed to 90mm the gemini booster has so I had to fab a bracket to change the attachment sizes.

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File finished of course !!!!!!

The only good part so far is the clevis fits and i have enough pushrod length to have the bracket in place so there you go !!

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Waiting for the bracket to dry and install tomorrow, if all this fails I am going to use an original fraud 9 inch dual booster, the bonnet hinges give me enough room to do so, I just don't have any faith in the Chinese made stuff but we shall see !!!!

[Errol62]

Tidy work on the fabrication Greg, but then I’d expect nothing less.

Brake fluid supposed to be kind to rubber so maybe plastic too. Cursed engineer!


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Harv]

The last few months of fixing stuff for the engineer are frustrating, though the goal is so close.

Brake fluid is OK with almost all plastics, other than cellulose acetate butyrate (Uvex) and polycarbonate. Moderate chance that a sightglass is made from polycarb, as it is both clear and rugged.

Cheers,
Harv