Neils Frankenstein Ute

[FJWALLY]

part number for VP 92 5.0 lire from spares box DB1085-DB1086ULT
I am not sure if they are any good so pls check around before you go ahead but thats what mr Google through back at me

[EK283]

Hi Neil,

Its a shame it didn't pass but its probably for the best ! It will force you to come up with a better brake solution rather than putting up with it.
To be honest I would be looking for a better pedal pressure and feel, you are using matching front and rear callipers so I would start with the matching master cylinder size to begin with.
The larger the master the less pedal travel and the harder it feels.
In relation to softer pads I'm not sure you will get great results, the brakes need to work well before there is any real difference and most of the time the good bite will only be noticed at speed.
Its a pain but you have to start at the beginning check everything and eliminate as you go, and don't worry your not the only one !
I've walked away from my car at the moment because my brand new torque convertor is rattling and needs to come out ! This is a huge job and one I don't need right now so the roller doors closed until I can regather the energy to start again !!

Greg

[59wagon]

Bummer Neil but on the positive side, as Greg said, you’ll have good brakes once sorted. Also, you said in an earlier post you paid a brake specialist to go over it - must be worth a call to him for some warranty work or money back. If he can’t tell you how to fix it then why the “specialist” moniker?
Keep smiling mate
Cheers,
John


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[Harv]

I've walked away from my car at the moment because my brand new torque convertor is rattling and needs to come out ! This is a huge job and one I don't need right now so the roller doors closed until I can regather the energy to start again !!

It helps. I've had to do it a few times with various projects, Close the door, walk away and do something else for a few days. Suprisingly, most of the time when you get back to it, the job is easier than it seemed.

As an aside, I really hope that's your dust cover Greg. Being full of liquid, there aint much to rattle in a convertor. A rattley one would be a real worry.

Cheers,
Harv

[FireKraka]

Thanks for the comments guys really appreciated.
Greg I think you are on the money and I fully understand what you mean about pulling down the roller door I brought Frank home from the inspection and put him in the naughty corner and yes I suppose brakes are important
My FC sedan has the same braking system except for the master cylinder and booster I believe the booster is working, a vacuum gauge in the line and I'm holding 22" vacuum, master cylinder is 1"1/8 bore VP master is 15/16" I bought a Wilwood brake pressure test gauge a little while ago that screws into the calipers bleed screw hole mind you I had to drill out and tap an old commodore bleed screw because the Wilwood is a lot smaller.
The point of all of that is I'm going to put the gauge into one or two of the calipers and measure the pressure at the caliper if I get the required pressure, approx 1500psi then I suppose I will need to look at the calipers and pads if I don't get the pressure then I suppose it is the master
I have already had a look on line and I can get the same master cylinder in 1" bore which may be the way to go we will see
Neil

[Blacky]

11/8" to 15/16" is a BIG difference when it comes to brake master cylinders , methinks that would be the first place to start. Can you get a 15/16" one or is 1" the closest ???

And CARN THE TIGERS

[FireKraka]

Hey Blacky a quick search of eBay yesterday found a 1" direct replacement for my 1" 1/8th but will do a bit more looking.
Agree it is a big difference between 1"1/8th and 15/16th but I think even going to the 1" one will make a difference.
After pondering for a few days now after the disappointment I feel better and think I have a way ahead.

AND GO YOU TIGERS Who said we couldn't beat Port at home hey
Neil

[FireKraka]

Purchased and fitted the 1" master cylinder it has 3/8" ports same as the 1"1/8" one that I had.
Pulled the calipers and replaced the brake pads, I did find that the old pads were glazed so with the larger bore master cylinder this was clearly not helping.
Roughed up the rotors, fitted the new Bendix brake pads, bled the brakes with the help of the boss
Took it out and around the block to bed the pads, the pedal has a better feel to it and I think it is stopping better.
Have organised with the engineer to come down Tuesday to do a brake test on his machine if I get a good result then I'm back for rego inspection.
While doing the little things and with my limited skills I came up with a simple console to cover over where my relays and engine fuses are, covered it in black carpet and I think it sort of makes it blend in.

IMG_0686.JPG (643.39 KiB) Viewed 466 times

IMG_0687.JPG (712.2 KiB) Viewed 466 times

[Errol62]

Blends in nicely. Sounding positive. Good luck Neil.
Cheers
Clay


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[WesternWagon]

Nice mate

All the best with the inspection


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[FJWALLY]

Looking Good Neil - I'm crossing everything for the test

[Blacky]

Here’s hoping she is all good now - I like the console , I plan on making a similar one for my ute one of these days .....

[EK283]

Sounds good Neil,

Did you end up testing the pressures at the callipers ??

Greg

[FireKraka]

Thanks guys appreciate the comments.
Greg I didn't check the caliper pressure, I think if I hadn't have got a better outcome from master and pad change then I certainly would have, if I don't get a positive result from the engineer then Frank is going to a brake specialis, the one that EffBee took is very nice sedan to for brake lines, I checked them out online and they do a lot of custom cars and I'm at the end of my experience if what I've done doesn't pass.
Neil

[Brett027]

Best of luck Neil. Can't wait to see it on the road. It's going to happen.