Thanks Rob. I hadn't thought about peening the hole and fortunately had a replacement. My understanding is the torque required is 45- 60ftlbs, but there was no meat left to engage. All good its on now.
On another matter, I was thinking that I might chock the upper wishbones so as to prevent the bump rubbers sitting compressed for several months cause I don't to want put wheels on until I've finished paint work. Does this make sense?
You could leave the springs out until you want to put the wheels on. It is only the upper outer pivot needing to be disassembled, and it is arguably easier to install springs using the body weight to compress the lower wishbone.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Thanks Clay, was thinking that way as well. Without the weight of the engine it will be more difficult to compress them using a trolley jack as was my plan. I'll leave them out.
Be nice to have the suspension, brakes and steering done before it warms up enough to finish the paint.
New drama
I'm trying to install the steering knuckle onto the upper and lower control arms. The manual states that when installing onto the upper arm the distances to the arm should be equal either side. Fair enough. However, when I do that the distance between the knuckle sides and the lower control arm sides are not equal, they are 10mm or so different- is this a problem?
Brett,
I would say that the lower pivot should definitely be centred in the bottom control arm, and would fit this first. The upper is adjustable after fitment, in order to adjust camber and caster.
Having said this, when I was playing with mine recently, I had trouble getting sufficient caster. This could be overcome by spacing the bottom forward slightly. This means the lower outer pivot would have a smaller gap at the front.
I hope this helps. Must admit I didn’t look at the spacing on the lower outer at the time. Next time the wheels are off I will.
Cheers
Clay
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Thanks Clay,
Got there! Within 1mm either side top and bottom and no binding on pins. Hopefully camber and castor will be able to be set without any trouble. Quite a bit of time spent on the control arms inners and outers and then setting up the steering knuckle. Even setting the new seals was not straightforward. New bushes on inners and new pins and bushes on outers. New king pins too. Hopefully this side will be good as new.
Cuppa tea first and then passenger side. Sleeting here - very cold in the shed today
If you have one of those fancy "spirit" levels with a digital inclinometer, now's the ideal time to set your caster, in that you haven't fitted the brakes.
It's a bit of mucking around, but - set the body up on stands so that the sills are level. Assemble the front suspension without the springs. Set the approximate ride height (I'd say about 1/4" - 1/2" of air between the rebound stops and the crossmember) with a jack under the lower control arm. Put a couple of long 3/8" bolts through the upper holes in the stub axle and rest the level-cum-inclinometer on top of them.
Adjust the caster to the most positive end of the range: +2 degrees, with the camber between zero and +1/2 degree, and the eccentric adjusted so that the pivot pin is at or near its maximum height. Camber's easy: level placed vertically on the machined face of the stub axle.
If you can't get enough caster angle, you can cheat by moving the steering knuckle support one thread pitch forward on the lower outer pivot pin.
This setup will be a good first approximation. When the car's on the road, you can make a tweak here and there in case it pulls to one side, or the steering doesn't self-centre well enough.
Great information there Rob. Thank you very much. I haven't got one of those spirit levels but guess what I'm doing on Monday!
I'd much rather do that job myself than have someone playing with it, so I'll give it a go. I'll post some pics as well. Cheers.