Chev EK

[Errol62]

Good job. No one will know.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[ardiesse]

Your welds are better than mine. I'm guessing you have a TIG?

Rob

[EK283]

Your welds are better than mine. I'm guessing you have a TIG?

Rob

Thanks guys,

Actually Rob its with a mig welder. I learnt this technique from a panel beater associate a few years ago. I was always paranoid about getting penetration with hot welds and put up with hours of grinding with big messy welds trying to fill the holes I created.
So my trick here is to have a gap the same thickness as a cut off wheel and spot the welds avoiding heat and hole blowing. I weld a spot and stop and while that spot is still red hit it again half on and half off filling the gap. It gets great penetration and distortion is at a minimum and the welds aren't to big. I also blow compressed air over it every inch or so. It does take a bit of mucking around with feed and amps on the machine and to be serious a few years of persistence to master it. Funny though as my eyes are wearing out it is becoming difficult to see what the weld is doing, most of the time its point shoot and hope for the best !!!!

Regards Greg

[rosco]

Greg, if you don't mind me chiming in here on your thread.... welding.... hmmmmm. As a welder, I'm a great angle grinder. 'Nuff said?

I have a 215A Cigweld Transmig and a 205A Cigwld Tig... I'm almost useless with both of them.. but I get there.
My ratio is 10/90.... the 10% is welding....

I'd love to learn to use this Tig... I've had a few goes at it and managed to make a replacement dog-leg front fender panel for my little 1977 Corona....and Tig it in..... the 1.0 mm steel was particularly difficult to weld without burning through and I made up a number of test pieces before getting my settings close... the end result was an almost flush finish with a bit of surface grinding with a flap disk and minimal filler... best welding job I have ever done.

Mig - well, in the 20 years I've had this machine - I've probably only done as many good welds without having to grind.

I also use your method of spotting a joint together then building it along the joint.... my machine has a "stitch" function which I believe will do this .... dropping a weld in at regular intervals as you proceed along the joint - but I haven't used it.
The guide for wire diameter, coarse and fine settings plus gas used and material thickness is a Godsend... it's a darned pity that the Tig doesn't come with the same guide...

I did a TAFE course in Mig.. but it was very basic... and the materials used were all heavy gauge. I am ok with big metal - but anything from 2 mm down in thickness - I tend to over-do.. and make huge builds.. and holes.... using a brass or copper plate beneath the weld helped me an awful lot with holes...

I would like to do a similar course in Tig... I am beginning to learn to "stack the dimes"... but have huge issues with welding aluminium... which I know the machine can do... it's not a handyman unit, neither of them are... the Tig was a $4k machine... I'd love to be able to weld well with it and hope someone in this forum who can Tig weld may drop me a line... or even open a new thread...

Apologies for both swamping and digressing your thread - I saw the opening, and have jumped onto it...

frats,
Rosco

[EK283]

I have a tig as well but have hardly used it, to much to learn and not enough time !!! Actually my brother has it I must get it back off him one day.

Arms are now like popeye's !!!

Nude bit will have some epoxy tomorrow, I had to shut the roller door early today just really tired.

IMG_0994.JPG (194.74 KiB) Viewed 679 times

More tomorrow.

Greg

[rosco]

By golly, that looks sweet Greg...... you will know what's under the paint and trim..... and that's what matters - peace of mind.


Likewise with the TIG - love to do more with it, but need someone to teach me... so many parameters (10) on this machine.... not like the MIG - which only has the three basic ones, plus a couple of trigger options.

Might take a pic and post here....... with your permission?

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control panel

002 Tig panel mail.jpg (127.96 KiB) Viewed 632 times

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Forgot to mention - when you come to fitting the inner board.... in particular - the sealing liner...

I learned something that Japan had done with the little Corona - which I incorporated into the EK when I did the linings and boards.
They provide an additional "flap" which runs from the front and rear (as in car) of each main seal.
The purpose of which is to prevent water/crud from finding its way into the sealing joint on the passenger compartment side of the door frame.

This second sealing sheet overlaps the outer side of the main sheet.. it extends well down and beyond the aperture of the inner door frame and into the "well" cavity.
Its purpose is to deflect rubbish/water from getting caught in the newly created channel at the bottom of the opening - where the otherwise single sheet seal curves back to the cavity side of the frame.... water will run down over the sheet and it's the metal of the lower aperture which becomes the first point of contact.

By fitting the sealing sheet to the cabin side of the door frame (as it is intended to be done under the nylon retaining inserts) - two drainage ports, one at the front and one at rear - are provided for draining anything caught.....
But I can assure you, they are either sealed up, or the adhesive lets go..... and allows water to ingress inside the vehicle (how many times have you washed your car to find the scuff plates with water on them?

My rear left door sealing sheet drain ports were also sealed up with the gunk sealant they used in 1961..... I found this, when I saw a very small sign of rust starting to bubble on the flat section immediately below the rear drainage port.... it took nearly 30 years - but it got there.

This second flap deflects ingress to the door away from the lower section of the main seal sheet.... I used a contact adhesive to fit it in place before I fitted the main seal sheet....

Further to this, I added extra flaps above the window winder and door release mechanisms....

As you are also aware, there is a drain channel which runs diagonally from the front of the inside of the door card recess to the bottom of the aperture.... for draining away anything which gets in around the two assemblies. It drains out through the two ports... this was why I decided to make and fit flaps over the cavity side of the mech's...

Little things, but they all add up....

frats,
Rosco

[TAZ]

By golly, that looks sweet Greg...... you will know what's under the paint and trim..... and that's what matters - peace of mind.


Likewise with the TIG - love to do more with it, but need someone to teach me... so many parameters (10) on this machine.... not like the MIG - which only has the three basic ones, plus a couple of trigger options.

Might take a pic and post here....... with your permission?





001 TIG mail.jpg




control panel



002 Tig panel mail.jpg






frats,
Rosco

Rosco, give me a call 0402 112 770. I have 30 years experience as a boiler maker welder and now teach metal fabrication at TAFE and can talk you through setting up the welder.

Cheers, Simon

[rosco]

Thanks Simon... will PM you shortly.

frats,
Rosco

[EK283]

Rosco,

Once your digits heal and Simon teaches you some welding with the Tig you can post a new topic and let her rip.

I see that a lot of fabricators are heading that way welding everything form pipes to panels.

Yes Rosco you can see the drain ports in the upside down door shot (top of picture on the bottom edge of the opening).

Back in the shed today for the last of all my panels to repair.

Deoxidine makes the panels go a bluey, grey, copper colour as the acid burns the metal and removes all microscopic rust and leaves the metal chemically clean.
I still go over it with wax and grease before I paint.

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Whoo hoo !! no more metal repairs, just a few hours blocking and priming, really sick of it at this stage, so close yet still so far.

PS door upside down because I wanted to get inside where the repair was.

Greg

[Errol62]

Good work Greg,
I actually miss rust repairs, got so used to it.

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[rosco]

Fingers are sore and swollen today Greg - too much typing. Can't do any work, and can't sit still... book reading is not me, unless it's technical... or - I'm writing it (sic).

Yes, might open up a "newbie" to Tig thread (with pix)... I don't believe there is one in this forum yet.... happy to be corrected.

Very much looking forward to Simon leading me through the curve (now, where have I heard that phrase of late?).

Door looks great... and yes, your process is in parallel with mine... great to get it all under paint... the "rubbing" then begins... but it's more satisfying than working the metal up (well, it is to me anyway).

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Forgot to mention - I actually filled the vertical line that exists in the outer panel just ahead of the door handle... did a great job of getting rid of it, thinking it was a dent.... until I looked at the other side door... which also had it... I had to "put" the line back in.... it's not much, but if you look very closely - it's there..... this is one of the giveaways I look for repairs at car shows etc..... we build an intimacy with our metal.... some of it is subtle... and this differentiates the "general" class from the more appreciated.

I need to find a thread somewhere concerning the rear bumper over-riders.... anyone?
I want to post up some preventative things I did to mine.... might add it to my own build thread, but with winter coming on - now is the time to effect some of this work ... I won't be that far into my thread (at this rate of typing) until it's too late for this season.

frats,
Rosco

[EK283]

Good work Greg,
I actually miss rust repairs, got so used to it.

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Should have probably said no more fabrication or rust repairs, just got to finish three panels paint wise and put it all together. Oh and buff and polish it all. Good winter projects !!!!

Getting cold here in Sydney, probably missed the painting window. I could always get the panel done in a booth, see I how I go in the next 2 weeks.

Greg

[Errol62]

Here too, and it rained so humidity is up. Up to 23C tomorrow so maybe some more hifill on the shell. 25C later next week.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie