WRAY T96 SUPERCHARGER refurb and install

[rosco]

Hmmmm.... I'm not convinced.. but am not qualified not to be..... just me, if it were me that was doing this - which it's not... I'd probably invent something.... even maybe as a "safety net" arrangement should it let go... must put a lot of strain on the manifold... the head isn't an issue.. we lift motors out using that.... but a fabricated manifold... hmmmm food for thought..

Probably just a case of me being nervous nanny about it... if they ever broke away - we'd have heard of it, surely....

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

It is mainly down to the belt setup and tension. Running twin belts will require less tension. I’m not sure where the alt is going but probably underneath in the usual position. Then maybe a tensioner wheel pushing on the outside of the belt. This could direct the tension in the direction of the compression brace. Still it is a lot of gear to run off one loop, and would require a pretty long bolt, and therefore a lot of adjustment. I suppose adjustment could be achieved using both alt pivot and tensioner wheel?

All will be revealed no doubt.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Harv]

Nice. The oil filler can’t take its eyes off the blower by the looks.

Fred's test mule has had a partial Dulux overhaul. Needs a chrome filler to set it off.

It should be fine. Don't forget that Wrays are mainly ally... unlike the steel cased, steel rotor'd Normans. Lot less weight in cantilever.

From memory, the drive pulley is mounted off the harmonic balancer snout. Two belts for the blower, and the third standard belt for the balancer/water pump/gennie. Otherwise you would need multiple tensioners to get enough belt wrap.

Cheers,
Harv

[FJWALLY]

Nice. The oil filler can’t take its eyes off the blower by the looks.

Fred's test mule has had a partial Dulux overhaul. Needs a chrome filler to set it off.

It should be fine. Don't forget that Wrays are mainly ally... unlike the steel cased, steel rotor'd Normans. Lot less weight in cantilever.

From memory, the drive pulley is mounted off the harmonic balancer snout. Two belts for the blower, and the third standard belt for the balancer/water pump/gennie. Otherwise you would need multiple tensioners to get enough belt wrap.

Cheers,
Harv

Correct Harv - it will have a twin A section belt from the harmonic balancer to blower - Alt is already in place in same location as stock so we could use a powerbond balancer slightly modified to take an off the shelf twin pulley as in pic
The Tensioner is a simple one - Wray original design I believe as Fred cast it from a pattern he possessed from the tooling he got when he purchased the brand - it will sit on top side of the belts and push down on the flat outer edge so we will get a bit of extra belt wrap that way - it could of work on a single B belt well enough but no doubt with twos A’s and a bit of extra security if one lets go - I will carry spares for such an event and they will be a regular maintenance item but being A belts are not expensive


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[Harv]

Wray idler arm, with what looks suspiciously like a VN-VR belt tensioner pulley

Cheers,
Harv

[FJWALLY]

Wray idler arm, with what looks suspiciously like a VN-VR belt tensioner pulley

Cheers,
Harv

Lol yes Harv - thats what it says on the box too - think he chose it as they have dual good size sealed bearings and good service life - its a bit shiny


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[Harv]

Someone might have recommended it to him .

They factory bearings are crappy, as they have a 17mm ID. Try finding a 17mm OD bolt to use as a spindle . He may have spun up a spindle on the lathe instead. The trick is to replace the bearings with ones that have a more common ID.

Cheers,
Harv

[FJWALLY]

Someone might have recommended it to him .

They factory bearings are crappy, as they have a 17mm ID. Try finding a 17mm OD bolt to use as a spindle . He may have spun up a spindle on the lathe instead. The trick is to replace the bearings with ones that have a more common ID.

Cheers,
Harv

Lol - I will have to check internal size - it does look like a manufactured spindle - as its not going to have massive tension it should see me out though


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[rosco]

I gave the mount issue a bit more thought as I nodded off last night... the draw of that big rubber band on the front will probably more than counter the weight of the unit... the mount to the manifold will be pulled "in" if anything... by the draw of the belt.
Only issue I see is any bouncing up and down of the engine as the vehicle runs over bumpy road etc... any jarring may need regular checking of the manifold for cracks - but, I'm sure if there are any - this will show up in poor running...

Had another thought on the noise of the fan - I don't think you'll hear it... over any anticipated whining of the Wray... or a suitable exhaust.

frats,
Rosco

[FJWALLY]

Idler


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[Errol62]

Good stuff. Yes the v6 vn tensioner was what I was picturing, being the only Holden I’ve owned with serpentine belt setup. So three belts running off the crank. No wonder you want to move the radiator.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Harv]

Sigh. I wish I had a lathe (and the skill to run one). With my neanderthal engineering skills, I had to replace the centre bearing instead (picture me standing over that pulley, belting it with two rocks by the light of a fire ). From my notes:

The pulley runs a SKF 6203-2RSH bearing, which is rated to 12,000rpm. The pulley internal bore is 17mm, suitable for an M17 bolt to be used as a shaft. M17 bolts are somewhat unusual, but have a shank diameter around 16.974mm. A alternative is to use a ¾” bolt (19.05mm) and turn the shank down to just under 17mm. The bearings on the KC160 can also be replaced with a 40mm OD/19.05mm ID bearing (bearing part number 6203-¾). These are an oddball bearing, with a metric OD and ¾” imperial ID. This would allow you to use a ¾” high-tensile bolt as the pulley spindle without machining.

Cheers,
Harv

[rosco]

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[rosco]

(picture me standing over that pulley, belting it with two rocks by the light of a fire ).

With your Fred Flintstone dotted Onesy and wooden club behind you just in case of wantering Mammoths - home delivery meals, even way back then... or the odd Sabre Toothed Tigga....

Larger bolt and bearing is what I'd choose.. but, I wouldn't just buy one of the bearings - I'd get a few, if they weren't overly expensive.
Is it a ball bearing, or needle rollers?...

I remember when I did a reco the the Celica 5 speed box - I had the choice of two input shaft bearings... one was heavy duty. It had one more ball than the standard bearing...

We have a lot of trouble with bearings in model aeroplane engines... we can't get rollers that small, but wherever possible, we ask for a bearing with the most balls in it. Our engines can run anywhere up to 25 k rpms... the "pylon"racing blokes get much more out of them, shaving and shimming heads and altering the timing ports of the crank and cylinder... we know when a bearing is blown - the motor develops a whistle to it....
We use the cook's oven to get steel bearings out of alloy engine crankcases... pre-heat oven, put engine in on heated tray.... leave for 2 minutes then pull the lot out and tap/punch out the bearing.. the alloy heats up faster than the steel.... and the bearing "pops" out with a little bit of enticement.
They tend to lock in with the oil in the 2 stroke mix.... strangely, we don't seem to have the same issues with 4 stroke engines.. they run a lot cooler, and the oil doesn't "cook" in them between the bearing casing and crankcase....


I've had to replace bearings in the motors of small electric powered models too.... these are very small and finding anything to use that can press them out is very difficult... model helicopters are the worst... some of the bearings in those are terribly small.... OD bearing casing of only 3 mm.... fitting a new bearing into the housing without damaging it is a tedious and long-winded affair.

frats,
Rosco

[FJWALLY]

These bearings are held in with a circlip Rosco - I imagine they are fairly easily removed and would not be a press fit and a gentle tap will get them out - a trip to local bearing shop would be an easy fix but with the RPM of the grey I doubt it will be a regular replacement item. It also wont be heavily loaded like a VN serpentine.