Just a follow up - that empty screw hole in the pix..... mounts for the indicator assembly.
I sheared of one of mine.... the location does not lend itself well to preventing this, corrosion and dis-similar metal syndrome seem to bring out the worst of the steel thread and white metal...
I ended up fitting a stainless bolt into there and cut off the head. I used Loctite 76769 silver paste anti-seize to prevent issues with ever having to remove the thread from the white metal..
Further, I might suggest making up a very thin neoprene gasket to fit between the heavier support arm and the fender.... that's a trap for keeping a good supply of road grit working away between the two....
The "U" shaped bumper mount iron is on the other side of this - juggling all pieces together takes a bit of work... but, it will all come into place with a bit of patience. The angle of the support arm gives away orientation... the sharper angle goes to the fender.
I might suggest fitting a longer bolt through the sub-frame at the other end too.... it holds the breast plate in place - with mine, the original was "just" long enough - it's a pain when re-fitting the breast plates after doing a coolant change - that short bolt annoyed me for many years until I decided to change it for a longer one.
With the shorter support arm (long round one) it is slotted at the sub-frame skirt end (top) so that adjustment can be made.... the entire assembly is best fitted up loosely, then brought into final position whilst progressively tightening up the nuts and bolts.
frats,
Rosco
Chev EK
Re: Chev EK
Thanks for the advice guys !
Busted a nut the last few days and am starting to see a bit of a result, car looking like a car again sort of.
Headlining in, bugger of a job !!! A couple of wrinkles which should come out in time and its the best I could do considering.
Started wet sanding for a couple of hours, more door and guard work tomorrow !!!
Greg
Busted a nut the last few days and am starting to see a bit of a result, car looking like a car again sort of.
Headlining in, bugger of a job !!! A couple of wrinkles which should come out in time and its the best I could do considering.
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Greg
So many cars so little time!
Re: Chev EK
Good progress. Those pipes look badass!
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Chev EK
Looks great to me.. and yes, looking more and more like a car you can drive.
Don't fret about those wrinkles... you haven't fitted the trim yet - they will pull a bit more out of them....
I have been led to believe that using a hair-dryer carefully will "shrink" the material..... there have been posts on this somewhere in this forum, fair while back, from memory.
Agree with those pipes - the bumper of an FB/EK really lends itself well to having them where you have fitted them... they will look even greater with the bumper fitted.... make sure they extend beyond the open face of the bumper (looks like they will)... the over-riders will allow you to go at least that far back. From memory, the bumper has to be the rear most point of the vehicle.. may be different in each state, though...
Keep going - we are all going to have plenty of time on our hands before much longer... guess, we are the fortunate ones - we have something to keep us occupied... pity those who go to the footy as a hobby... oh well, at least they are playing... so far...
frats,
Rosco
Don't fret about those wrinkles... you haven't fitted the trim yet - they will pull a bit more out of them....
I have been led to believe that using a hair-dryer carefully will "shrink" the material..... there have been posts on this somewhere in this forum, fair while back, from memory.
Agree with those pipes - the bumper of an FB/EK really lends itself well to having them where you have fitted them... they will look even greater with the bumper fitted.... make sure they extend beyond the open face of the bumper (looks like they will)... the over-riders will allow you to go at least that far back. From memory, the bumper has to be the rear most point of the vehicle.. may be different in each state, though...
Keep going - we are all going to have plenty of time on our hands before much longer... guess, we are the fortunate ones - we have something to keep us occupied... pity those who go to the footy as a hobby... oh well, at least they are playing... so far...
frats,
Rosco
Re: Chev EK
Get yourself a little karcher steamer - they are perfect for that - some clothes irons can be used the same as well - it really makes a big difference to go over the lot with a steamer - it relaxes and sets the fabric if that makes sense - we use them al the time in textiles retailing.
You will find me lost somewhere!
Re: Chev EK
looking good mate
FB-Special
Big block 161
Holley sniper EFI.
Vintage air ducted heat and cool.
Ek auto column shift.
Lj diff and reverse lights.
WA FB~EK Car Club Member.
Big block 161
Holley sniper EFI.
Vintage air ducted heat and cool.
Ek auto column shift.
Lj diff and reverse lights.
WA FB~EK Car Club Member.
Re: Chev EK
The exhaust is hanging low at the moment as the bumper irons have tags welded on as hangers, they have been painted but I'm waiting on the tail light chrome to be done (second time around) so cant put the bumpers back on. You know how it goes !!!rosco wrote: Sat Mar 21, 2020 9:26 pm Looks great to me.. and yes, looking more and more like a car you can drive.
Don't fret about those wrinkles... you haven't fitted the trim yet - they will pull a bit more out of them....
I have been led to believe that using a hair-dryer carefully will "shrink" the material..... there have been posts on this somewhere in this forum, fair while back, from memory.
Agree with those pipes - the bumper of an FB/EK really lends itself well to having them where you have fitted them... they will look even greater with the bumper fitted.... make sure they extend beyond the open face of the bumper (looks like they will)... the over-riders will allow you to go at least that far back. From memory, the bumper has to be the rear most point of the vehicle.. may be different in each state, though...
Keep going - we are all going to have plenty of time on our hands before much longer... guess, we are the fortunate ones - we have something to keep us occupied... pity those who go to the footy as a hobby... oh well, at least they are playing... so far...
frats,
Rosco
Thanks for the comments guys, will try the steaming on the headlining if it doesn't settle in the next week or two.
Greg
So many cars so little time!
Re: Chev EK
let the headliner hang where it is for now, heat gun only on a headliner, nothing else.EK283 wrote:The exhaust is hanging low at the moment as the bumper irons have tags welded on as hangers, they have been painted but I'm waiting on the tail light chrome to be done (second time around) so cant put the bumpers back on. You know how it goes !!!rosco wrote: Sat Mar 21, 2020 9:26 pm Looks great to me.. and yes, looking more and more like a car you can drive.
Don't fret about those wrinkles... you haven't fitted the trim yet - they will pull a bit more out of them....
I have been led to believe that using a hair-dryer carefully will "shrink" the material..... there have been posts on this somewhere in this forum, fair while back, from memory.
Agree with those pipes - the bumper of an FB/EK really lends itself well to having them where you have fitted them... they will look even greater with the bumper fitted.... make sure they extend beyond the open face of the bumper (looks like they will)... the over-riders will allow you to go at least that far back. From memory, the bumper has to be the rear most point of the vehicle.. may be different in each state, though...
Keep going - we are all going to have plenty of time on our hands before much longer... guess, we are the fortunate ones - we have something to keep us occupied... pity those who go to the footy as a hobby... oh well, at least they are playing... so far...
frats,
Rosco
Thanks for the comments guys, will try the steaming on the headlining if it doesn't settle in the next week or two.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Re: Chev EK
More done,
Headliner is coming good !!
Put some of the interior trim in looks ok.
Getting there finally !!!
Painted the front passenger door and its got shit in it everywhere, Just had one of those days !!! All the wind has blown all sorts of stuff onto the roof of my spray area, as soon as i turn it on dust gets sucked in and across the paint. I'll have to clean it before anymore painting goes on. The door is straight but I'll have to do it again, oh well what can you do !!!
Greg
Headliner is coming good !!
Put some of the interior trim in looks ok.
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Painted the front passenger door and its got shit in it everywhere, Just had one of those days !!! All the wind has blown all sorts of stuff onto the roof of my spray area, as soon as i turn it on dust gets sucked in and across the paint. I'll have to clean it before anymore painting goes on. The door is straight but I'll have to do it again, oh well what can you do !!!
Greg
So many cars so little time!
Re: Chev EK
Has to be done, Greg.... that would drive me nuts if I didn't rub it back and respray it.... nuisance, yes - but it won't happen again.
If it is of any help, if I'm spraying on a concrete floor - I sweep out, blow out and then throw a couple of buckets of water across the surface of the floor... just before I spray. The water tends to attract and hold heavy airborne dust that gets thrown up with the air from the gun... it comes out of anywhere... unless you have a sealed booth - there is never a guarantee that you won't get dust in the air.
We're a bit lucky with acrylic - it dries pretty darned quickly..... 2K is a nightmare - seems to take yonks before the paint stops being a magnet for anything attracted to it...
The openings in the apex of your roof are a trap for crap like that too.. one gust of wind and stuff which has been up there for years can break away...
I fitted rolled up insect screen to the openings under the metal cover sheet in my shed.... stops a lot of tree crap getting into the shed...
Door, glovebox, quarter vent covers and ashtray all look pretty darned good to me.. but, I'm not 2' away from them... I feel your pain, but - it's just a nuisance - not a biggie...... like dropping a door onto the ground....
frats,
Rosco
If it is of any help, if I'm spraying on a concrete floor - I sweep out, blow out and then throw a couple of buckets of water across the surface of the floor... just before I spray. The water tends to attract and hold heavy airborne dust that gets thrown up with the air from the gun... it comes out of anywhere... unless you have a sealed booth - there is never a guarantee that you won't get dust in the air.
We're a bit lucky with acrylic - it dries pretty darned quickly..... 2K is a nightmare - seems to take yonks before the paint stops being a magnet for anything attracted to it...
The openings in the apex of your roof are a trap for crap like that too.. one gust of wind and stuff which has been up there for years can break away...
I fitted rolled up insect screen to the openings under the metal cover sheet in my shed.... stops a lot of tree crap getting into the shed...
Door, glovebox, quarter vent covers and ashtray all look pretty darned good to me.. but, I'm not 2' away from them... I feel your pain, but - it's just a nuisance - not a biggie...... like dropping a door onto the ground....
frats,
Rosco
Re: Chev EK
Two forward and one back Greg. It’s practically a given formula as you know. Progress!
Professional panel beater advised me to do final coats outside in the carport with a light breeze to avoid fall out in my shed. When the wind is blowing away from the neighbours of course.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
Professional panel beater advised me to do final coats outside in the carport with a light breeze to avoid fall out in my shed. When the wind is blowing away from the neighbours of course.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Chev EK
Hmmmm, Clay - not what I have done. I have left about 1' off the "lee" side roller door open and 2' of the windward one open...
This prevents a rush of air coming into the garage, but seems to vent out the paint mist effectively from the exit....
You can never get enough dust out of a garage - it's a case of trying to avoid upsetting what is already in there.... feet on the floor are probably the biggest offenders.... floor clean and "just" wet = best chance to avoid that...... as for the rest - good luck... there are dust "mines" waiting everywhere.
Issue I see with spraying outdoors is insects.... the pesky little critters just love sitting on, then into fresh paint.. and they squirm around until they can no longer move, or die.....
frats,
Rosco
This prevents a rush of air coming into the garage, but seems to vent out the paint mist effectively from the exit....
You can never get enough dust out of a garage - it's a case of trying to avoid upsetting what is already in there.... feet on the floor are probably the biggest offenders.... floor clean and "just" wet = best chance to avoid that...... as for the rest - good luck... there are dust "mines" waiting everywhere.
Issue I see with spraying outdoors is insects.... the pesky little critters just love sitting on, then into fresh paint.. and they squirm around until they can no longer move, or die.....
frats,
Rosco
Re: Chev EK
So after some investigation I have found that the stuff in my paint is not dust at all but a problem with the humidity and the way iso's in the paint react with moisture.
Its called iso clumping and its the hardener setting in mid flight due to moisture in the air. Bloody hell ???
So no more painting in high humidity.
So on to some trivial jobs. Tip number 967 Its a good idea to remember the holes in the front guards are different between sedans and commercials especially when your mint guard is off a ute and your putting in on a sedan!!!!!
If I can get any mouldings for the front guards they will hide the holes from the commercial type strips !!!!! I don't want to start welding at this stage.
Bit of dynamat down late this arvo.
Greg
Its called iso clumping and its the hardener setting in mid flight due to moisture in the air. Bloody hell ???
So no more painting in high humidity.
So on to some trivial jobs. Tip number 967 Its a good idea to remember the holes in the front guards are different between sedans and commercials especially when your mint guard is off a ute and your putting in on a sedan!!!!!
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Greg
Last edited by EK283 on Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
So many cars so little time!
Re: Chev EK
Specials, the more common cars, Greg. My first EK was a 215 standard sedan which has the same spears as the commercials. FB are different again, and you know all this of course.
There is always something to challenge us with this painting caper. Down my way the warmer weather is sadly dwindling although humidity is definitely not the issue here.
Anyway you're getting there. Good progress. What is the steering wheel, HKGT?
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
There is always something to challenge us with this painting caper. Down my way the warmer weather is sadly dwindling although humidity is definitely not the issue here.
Anyway you're getting there. Good progress. What is the steering wheel, HKGT?
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Chev EK
Hi Greg,
yes - humidity. I have been hit with that nasty a number of times. I did a partial respray of my upper front guards. I don't know whether the humidity got into the primer or the top coat... but the result is that if it is a day of low humidity, there aren't any "pimples"... if the car has been out in the wet for a few hours and cold - I have "pimples".
On my little car, whoever sprayed the front of that did the same thing - my belief is that this was sprayed in 2K.
The result of the humidity with this respray is that I get "pimples" on wet/cold days and "dimples" on hot/dry ones...
In both cases, I'll have to rub back to bare metal to be guaranteed that it has been removed.
For the past 10 years or so, I now use a hygrometer in the garage - if humidity is over 60%, I don't spray... my preferred is 50% or less for large jobs, but I will do touch up s at up to 60%... they are cheap little units to purchase, the better ones allow adjustment - the "current" level is obtainable through BOM.
I was not aware that the mount holes for the two different spears also differ... grrrr - and no, I wouldn't want to go down the path of welding up the holes.... reo-filler is your friend... and seal it out on both sides.... hopefully, where it is applied will be behind the special spears.
On that note, I won't ever use plain steel clips or mounts again on my bus... I have fallen in love with stainless and butyl-mastic.
I used hex shaped nylon clips on my doors and rear trim... I had to modify each one to allow a "bump" on fit... but they will never rust and more importantly - won't rust the panel they are fitted to... I have lots of pix, if you want to see what I did. I have not done the front trim yet... I haven't had time (sic) to get to the final sections to finish my respray (give me a break, I've only had 30 years since getting a decent compressor and the guns to use with it).
frats,
Rosco
yes - humidity. I have been hit with that nasty a number of times. I did a partial respray of my upper front guards. I don't know whether the humidity got into the primer or the top coat... but the result is that if it is a day of low humidity, there aren't any "pimples"... if the car has been out in the wet for a few hours and cold - I have "pimples".
On my little car, whoever sprayed the front of that did the same thing - my belief is that this was sprayed in 2K.
The result of the humidity with this respray is that I get "pimples" on wet/cold days and "dimples" on hot/dry ones...
In both cases, I'll have to rub back to bare metal to be guaranteed that it has been removed.
For the past 10 years or so, I now use a hygrometer in the garage - if humidity is over 60%, I don't spray... my preferred is 50% or less for large jobs, but I will do touch up s at up to 60%... they are cheap little units to purchase, the better ones allow adjustment - the "current" level is obtainable through BOM.
I was not aware that the mount holes for the two different spears also differ... grrrr - and no, I wouldn't want to go down the path of welding up the holes.... reo-filler is your friend... and seal it out on both sides.... hopefully, where it is applied will be behind the special spears.
On that note, I won't ever use plain steel clips or mounts again on my bus... I have fallen in love with stainless and butyl-mastic.
I used hex shaped nylon clips on my doors and rear trim... I had to modify each one to allow a "bump" on fit... but they will never rust and more importantly - won't rust the panel they are fitted to... I have lots of pix, if you want to see what I did. I have not done the front trim yet... I haven't had time (sic) to get to the final sections to finish my respray (give me a break, I've only had 30 years since getting a decent compressor and the guns to use with it).
frats,
Rosco