Ordered my solid top coat 585-0115 Wedgewood Blue (1960-63) PPG Dulon acrylic lacquer. Steve says no need to colour match, will be perfect. $250 for four litres and $38 each for two four litre premium thinner. It was a case of coming into some cash
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Errol62 wrote: Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:26 amThought I had everything etch primed. Then found these.
Did you remember the inside door trims (the bits that are inside the cabin, run along the top of the door frame and down the B pillar)? I forgot these on Graces ute... thankfully the old paint that was on them was similar to the new stuff so they don't look out of place.
Glovebox lid
Ashtray
Rain deflectors from the tops of the quarter windows (forgot these on my wagon)
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
These would have been good pieces to learn on. It is a luxury to spray stuff flat. The only thing to watch is making sure no shadowing on the edges of the horizontal swages and edge rebate.
I've got a rhythm going now with the two pack. Did the backs which had never been painted. The rears were wuite pitted. Had to fill a few holes in one and skim outside with 40# disc. No filler on these. Quick and dirty. I got off most of the paint with strip disc and wire wheel also some thinners. Good scrub with metal conditioner a nd wash with copious water. They had some baby shit brown staining after clean g with the wax and grease remover which is normal.
Now I'm so I g the outside faces after a few beers and dinner. Mum's at the movies.
Time for second cost.
Sent from my SM-A705YN using Tapatalk
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Serves me right for leaving on the light with the shed door open, couple kamikaze mozzies in the mix. Tried to blow them off but stuck fast. They're embalmed now. Sand out later. One more coat. Actually used every last drop of the paint and almost the hardner. Over stocked big time on the reducer.
Sent from my SM-A705YN using Tapatalk
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Picked up my Wedgewood Blue 4l. Also some single coat silver metallic two pack for fuel tank etc, and another two litres of Epotec to finish off in the rear behind the cab. I’m going to apply knifing putty to the pinholes after high fill primer, then repost on advice from Steve. Must have spent over $1k on paint products by now, well over.
Pretty well keyed the shell with 180 ready for high fill yesterday. Then tonight I decided to paint mums new to her cane outdoor setting. Good old enamel, with 10% turps to thin. Came out okay although I only had enough for one good coat.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
You've really been hit with the paint fairy bug, Clay....
If it is of any help, if you aren't aware of this... when spraying enamel, run a "mist" coat over it first and leave it for about a minute... then run a double coat over it to gloss it up.
The mist coat keys the top coats to the undercoat.. and also helps prevent runs.
Any more than 10% thinners will tend to make it run and also reduce the final gloss.
I like to warm enamel paint up to thin it, it makes it easier to spray without the need for much thinners... I boil the kettle, then pour it into a bowl... stir up my enamel paint then leave the lid just sitting on it.... prevents any pressure build up and also seems to prevent condensation.
There isn't any fear of thinners drying off to quickly in the paint film with enamel... unlike that of acrylic. I haven't tried warming up 2K paint yet - the stuff is usually that thin anyway once it has both reducer (thinners) and hardener mixed in.... I have found that I can spray 2K with a smaller orifice set than what I usually use for acrylic...
Enamel is a hard wearing paint once it has fully cured out, but takes a long time to do so.. it dries from the surface inwards... the heavier the film build - the longer it will take to harden...
Hope you had some success with enamel.. there are plenty of people around who struggle spraying it... and - it stays "wet" in the air - make absolutely certain you cover up anything which you don't want that wet mist finding its way onto... I had covers on my old bus in the garage when I sprayed enamel onto the inside of our boat...... it got in from under the car up through the open sub-frame and I spent ages rubbing the blasted stuff off my engine bay..... remember, enamel stays wet in the air for ages....
Thanks Rosco. Job came out okay but I would have liked another coat. The cane furniture is pretty porous. It is a gloss so I’m wondering if another coat tomorrow will stick, or am I wasting my time? Obviously I can’t sand it.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Hmmmmm....
Can't say I've painted cane... I'd probably have gone with a sealer/filler undercoat...
May be worth the effort to try to lay down another wet coat before the first ones fully cure out.
You might be able to "trick" the previous enamel by adding a tiny bit of GP thinners into the next mix.. but, I'd only suggest a tiny bit or you'll create issues... the GP might "etch" into the previous enamel... enough to make it stick - I wouldn't put much in... 5% would probably be the limit..... might save you having to sand up and de-gloss the enamel that is on it already.... paint is fresh, so it would still be soft under the surface.
