Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute

gledge · Post by **gledge** » Tue Jul 17, 2018 8:47 pm

[quote="Errol62"]

Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:38 am

This thread seems to have been corrupted somehow. I can’t read the last two comments from Glen (gledge) and post from Rob (Ardiesse) seems to be missing altogether.

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59wagon · Post by **59wagon** » Wed Jul 18, 2018 10:13 am

Errol62 wrote: Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:38 am This thread seems to have been corrupted somehow. I can’t read the last two comments from Glen (gledge) and post from Rob (Ardiesse) seems to be missing altogether.

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Glen’s second last comment looks fine to me, as does Rob’s. Glen’s last post just contains “Errol62 wrote”

Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:45 pm

Thanks John
Seems to have come back.

I had a chance to torque up the outer tie rod ends this morning. It is a bit tricky as pointed out by others, as the joint just wants to spin. I tried putting a jack under to put some pressure on but didn’t want to remove the grease nipple so not that effective. Just used the rattle gun in the end. Short blasts, checking with the torque wrench in between, tightening to 55ft/lb.

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Wed Jul 18, 2018 7:31 pm

Tried one of the 13x6” jelly beans on the front. Tie rod grease rubber rubs slightly, 2mm spacer would fix it. When I turn the wheels however the rim fouls the front of the upper wishbone about half lock. The upright does seem to have quite a bit of negative? caster dialled in at the top so that it is mounted 3/4 adjustment to the rear. It doesn’t foul on turn out which is a greater angle due to steering geometry setup for toe out on turns to compensate for smaller turning radius of the inside wheel. These rims are 107mm back space or 4 1/4”. I have some 14x6 and 8” with smaller 4” back space but the eights really need Torana diff and mini tubs to fit on the rear. I do have another pair of 14x6” but they are slightly different.Confuzzed!?!

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Thu Jul 19, 2018 8:50 pm

Straightened the bonnet easily, too easily....

Rubbing back with the aid of special rubbing liquid

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gledge · Post by **gledge** » Thu Jul 19, 2018 9:01 pm

Errol62 wrote:Tried one of the 13x6” jelly beans on the front. Tie rod grease rubber rubs slightly, 2mm spacer would fix it. When I turn the wheels however the rim fouls the front of the upper wishbone about half lock. The upright does seem to have quite a bit of negative? caster dialled in at the top so that it is mounted 3/4 adjustment to the rear. It doesn’t foul on turn out which is a greater angle due to steering geometry setup for toe out on turns to compensate for smaller turning radius of the inside wheel. These rims are 107mm back space or 4 1/4”. I have some 14x6 and 8” with smaller 4” back space but the eights really need Torana diff and mini tubs to fit on the rear. I do have another pair of 14x6” but they are slightly different.Confuzzed!?!

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You mean these 14x8s Clay?

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Thu Jul 19, 2018 9:07 pm

Wow. Been busy doing a bit of rubbing your self there Glen.

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gledge · Post by **gledge** » Thu Jul 19, 2018 9:30 pm

gledge wrote:
Errol62 wrote:Tried one of the 13x6” jelly beans on the front. Tie rod grease rubber rubs slightly, 2mm spacer would fix it. When I turn the wheels however the rim fouls the front of the upper wishbone about half lock. The upright does seem to have quite a bit of negative? caster dialled in at the top so that it is mounted 3/4 adjustment to the rear. It doesn’t foul on turn out which is a greater angle due to steering geometry setup for toe out on turns to compensate for smaller turning radius of the inside wheel. These rims are 107mm back space or 4 1/4”. I have some 14x6 and 8” with smaller 4” back space but the eights really need Torana diff and mini tubs to fit on the rear. I do have another pair of 14x6” but they are slightly different.Confuzzed!?!

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You mean these 14x8s Clay?

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It’s all in the wrist action mate

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gledge · Post by **gledge** » Thu Jul 19, 2018 9:36 pm

Errol62 wrote:Straightened the bonnet easily, too easily....Rubbing back with the aid of special rubbing liquid

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Bonnet looks like it turned out ok mate how did ya end up doing it? I’m gunna have to try some of that rubbing liquid on ya rims.. it’s the stuff miracles are made of for sure

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 12:42 am

So the bonnet had been bent by being forced open while the hinges were seized, causing it to bend where the side pressing meets the hinge mounting plate. All I did was clamp a length of 60x60mm permapine on the top edge with the clamp on the inner hinge mounting bolt. The bolt was fully wound in to the captive thread with a mudguard washer under it for reinforcement. Carefully applied leverage at the bonnet front end of the permapine until the geometry looked about right. This did cause the side pressing to bend out at the flex point so just hammered back in to place. Repeated for the other side. Voila. It concerns me a bit how easily it bent that the side pressing may be a little weak and tend to bend again. There are some minor dimples in the top of the panel where some of the spot welds were pulled in when the damage was originally done. These can be hammer and dollyed or filled. Now I can try out my cheapie buffer and re-fit the bonnet.

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Patrick_R · Post by **Patrick_R** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 9:29 am

Blacky,
This is getting so close now, I can’t wait

Harv,
Leaving one leg straight on the split pin is also exactly the way my dad taught my brother and me.

He said
“the pin is what does all the work by stopping the nut from un doing by resisting the sheering force, the one bit you bend simply stops it from falling out. It does not make it any stronger, or do its job any better. The one you cut off, just makes it 50% easier to remove when it has to come out”
My dad didn’t like any extra work

Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:04 am

Bit more bonnet bending this morning as it has a slight twist. On the shed floor the twist is evident, passenger side home corner being an inch or so high. I supported one front corner on a block of wood and the rear on some cardboard. Put my weight across the opposite corners a few times checking in between until it was pretty straight relative to the floor. Trial fitted. Remaining adjustments can be done on the car.

Finally fitting a decent pair of bonnet hinges.

The factory used windscreen type mastic between firewall and hinge.

Which I am cleaning off with a blade. Think I’ll just mount it bare at this stage. Any thoughts out there?

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Errol62 · Post by **Errol62** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:09 am

Fair bit of the same grey mastic oozing our adjacent the hinge where the inner guard mounts to the firewall. That is the stuff to use when re mounting subframe.

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Patrick_R · Post by **Patrick_R** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:10 am

Sorry Clay,

I said Blacky by mistake mate.

My apologies.

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