Dismantling rear springs

[Finny]

I need to remove a leaf from the rear springs.
It has an extra one added (7 in total) , and sits too high.

Any special tricks or areas to be concerned about.
Was concerned that opening the closing the metal brackets that hold the springs together could cause them to snap.
Any feedback.?

[Trev]

Use a big G clamp before unclamping the springs and the bolt through the centre.
You will need a new set of bolts (locating bolts) that go through the centre.

I would only be using 5 springs, and a long rod to line them up when clamping them back together.

[Trev]

Check this out.
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 24&t=11893

[Finny]

Thanks Trev.

I did already look at your other posts, but was still a bit unsure, mostly about the disconnecting part.
The workshop manual didn't even refer to disconnecting the front on the rear springs at all.
Didn't really want to be straining stuff when the car is sitting up in the air.
I was planning to go with 5 leafs, as with the front lowered I thought that would probably be about right.
Plus that would remove the need for spacers.

All out now, just need to get new bushes in and reinstall.
The biggest issue I had was getting the front of the rear springs to let go of the bolt without doing too much damage.
Ended up using a iron bar the was pointed on one end.

[Finny]

One last question.
I collected the new bushes today "Nolathane ones" and noticed that the "front" rear bush kit includes sleeves.
2 x 2 different lengths (which I assume are for different models)



The EK springs didn't have any sleeves inside, but I can see that the HR ones do.
Without the sleeves the rubbers will be loose on the bolt?
But the sleeve seems just a fraction too small to go over the EK bolt.

I did ask (Repco) if they were the correct ones and "Yes" they are made for EK's.

So far I'm thinking that I may need to:-
A. Fit the bushes as they are, with loose fit.
B. File the EK bolts down so the sleeves fit.
C. Replace the special EK bolt with a standard bolt like used in the HR's
D. Something else ?

Just wonder if anyone has used these before and if so what did you do?

[Blacky]

Sorry mate , cant help - I always use rubber bushes on a street car.

[Craig Allardyce]

One last question.
I collected the new bushes today "Nolathane ones" and noticed that the "front" rear bush kit includes sleeves.
2 x 2 different lengths (which I assume are for different models)



The EK springs didn't have any sleeves inside, but I can see that the HR ones do.
Without the sleeves the rubbers will be loose on the bolt?
But the sleeve seems just a fraction too small to go over the EK bolt.

I did ask (Repco) if they were the correct ones and "Yes" they are made for EK's.

So far I'm thinking that I may need to:-
A. Fit the bushes as they are, with loose fit.
B. File the EK bolts down so the sleeves fit.
C. Replace the special EK bolt with a standard bolt like used in the HR's
D. Something else ?

Just wonder if anyone has used these before and if so what did you do?

Finny, do not use the bush or sleeve in the front hangar. They are for a HD/HR only (both items). You have to buy another set of rear hangar bushes to fit to the front. I had the same issue with mine...........it seems the manufacturers are slow on catching on with the problem. The joys of reman parts for older cars. I never went with Nolathane, too bloody hard IMHO. I did however go for Whiteline elastomer bushes which ride really well and are also black if your that fussy like me.

P.S. Your car is coming along nicely.

[Finny]

Thanks guys.
I'll use some good rubbers for the front ones.
Swapping them for HR bolts also won't fit.

Reducing the springs was more to assist with the brackets closing properly.
Thanks Tim, but I've reduced them to 5 leafs already.
Will know how it goes tomorrow

[rosco]

Bump - just found this.
Yes Craig - chasing up those front bushes you recommend.
I was about to grind down the original bolts to take the crush sleeves and nolathane bushes... luckily, I found this thread.

Just went to the Whiteline site - they show exactly the same crush tube arrangement for their front eye kit... the bushes are of a rubber/synthetic composition.. instead of urethane.. but, both Nolathane and Whiteline seem to have copied pages from somewhere on their diagrams.... right down to the angle of the unit in the diagram.... grrrrrr

Will contact both shortly and chew some "fat"..

frats,
Rosco

[Craig Allardyce]

Rosco I posted on your other thread. Yep elastomer type is what I used. Not as soft as rubber but softer than nolathane. Also a good side benefit is that they don't seem to split and perish as quick as rubber when squashed up between the rear shackle pin and plate.

[rosco]

Thanks Craig - I'm afraid I've gone too far with this.. if I'm not happy with the run to HB and back - I'll swap over to the Whiteline version.

Ok - just bumping this along again.... I spoke with Adam at Nolathane this morning - I was most certainly not happy with the dismal lack of fitting instructions which came with the kit - the front eye kit alone cost $49.05.. and it is almost identical to that which Whiteline supply for the same refurb..

I spoke at length with Adam - who was surprised that I had any issue with the kit... he was further surprised to learn that the crush tubes won't fit over the OEM front eye mount pins.

I measured my pins, which were/are in pretty good nick - and they are 13.25 mm in diameter - the crush tube I.D's are 12.8 mm.
Adam suggested I drill out the crush tubes for a sliding fit over the pins.
I suggested that if these have been around for such a long time - why haven't Nolathane had feedback that the tubes provided in the kit do not fit FB/EK pins... he then asked me if my pins were original or replacements.. and I stated adamantly that these are absolutely stock original - that I've had the vehicle since 1972 and it had done less than 50k when I got it...

He did not have any answer to that - chased up his history data and told me these kits have been supplied for many, many years without complaint.. until now... which I find very, very hard to believe.

Ok - so, at present - and about to fit them, the crush tubes have been reamed out (takes a bloodly long while with a hand file) - and they are too long... even the shorter ones need 4 mm taken off them to fit inside the frame - so that the OEM pin head will again re-seat in its housing and the full thread is just visible at the other end under compression.

Adam went through the installation process - and stressed very highly not to lubricate any Nolathane with rubber grease - it is basically brake fluid like - and will kill polyurethane.

I am to use the Molybdenum di-sulphide grease as supplied - it's black and tacky.. not to use wheel bearing grease.
CV joint grease can be used if necessary.

I am to coat the crush tube surface and the ends which must pivot in the frame. I am NOT to lubricate the spring eye surfaces either at the front or at the rear shackles.
All movement is restricted to the crush tube and rear shackle bush surfaces - if not lubricated, they will give a harsh and noisy ride.

So folk, I hope to have some pix up later..

Thanks again, Craig - some stiffness in the rear won't go wasted - I need to limit the amount of upwards movement of the rear springs to help stop these rear tyres rubbing on the wheel arches...

frats,
Rosco