no handles

Includes sheet metal, rubbers, bumpers, badges and rust repairs.

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Smooth customs
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Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2006 3:51 pm
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Post by Smooth customs »

Harko

Your problems are related to how they were fitted, I mentioned that before.

Have the small springs been fitted to the shaft and a drop of oil to stop them from binding. Another problem could be that the alignment pin that stops the button from rotating in the tube may be slightly bent

I also make spring loaded door poppers to help spring the door after the button is pushed. Newer door rubbers do this as well.


In the 70's I did a pair of doors for a mate as a very quick fix to a 24 hour defect.
I used a 1/2" hole saw to upen up the skin where it had been welded over and cut a slightly smaller circle out of 16 gauge. Welded a 1/4 bolt to the back of the disc and drilled a hole in the activator arm. Using two nuts I adjusted the position of the disc to the outer skin and then tightened the nuts on each side of the activation arm.

A smear of bog over the top and a quick sand to even the surface and we were in buisness. The defect was removed and the primative buttons stayed

The part I didnt like was the metal edge where I cut the hole, sometimes if you were a little careless you caught your finger on the edge.

That how the buttons I made after this had a tube as there base and it neatened the finished appearance
mattymartin
Posts: 841
Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 12:49 pm
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Location: sydney

prices

Post by mattymartin »

how much...

for the doors & do people usually do just the two front one & open back from the inside or do you do all four...

what are my option for the tailgate...

matty martin
go the wagons....
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