rear screen replacement tips

[EK JAY]

any one got any tips on how to put in a new rear screen in mine has blown out

[Mick]

i think just the same as a front, only ever put 1 in and that's all we did same as the front

[rosco]

Windscreen mechanics do NOT like doing these.... compared to modern vehicles - these both require a bit of skilll and a lot of expertise.....

#1 most important RULE = everything must be absolutely clean..... anything left in the channels, on the glass, in the rubber or on the trims will cause major issues.... broken glass, stones - even old sealant...... clean it all scrupulously........

The stainless moulding has to be fitted prior to the glass going into the rubber...do not use sealant in this recess..... the glass holds the moulding in place.... the recess should not be broken anywhere - and as such, should not let water seep through the rubber.

Use plenty of butyl mastic - in the rubber glass channel, in the aperture channel and on both sides of the apeture (perhaps a little care should be excercised on the inside.... it is very sticky, messy stuff..... but a sound bead should be applied around the inside of the aperture....

Once the trims are inserted and the mastic is applied, the assembly is then fitted into the aperture - the corner trims and centre joiner are fitted after the assembly has been installed.

Once the assembly is fitted, excess can be easily removed - first by scraping the bulk of it with a very blunt blade - the remainder by careful use of a clean rag slightly dampened with turps.... and clean off that turps immediately or you'll risk your paint (acrylic).......

Two people are needed to do the job - one inside - the other outside...... a cord is placed and overlapped around the aperture channel in the rubber.
Fit the assembly over the aperture - keep pressure on it and "bump" it in gently with the palm of your hand from outside whilst slowly withdrawing the cord as you go - a bit from each end working around the aperture - from inside.... when you get to the last section, you might have to use a rubber mallett and GENTLY bump it in (make absolutely sure the rubber mallett does not have anything embedded into it.....

The process works by the rubber being peeled over the aperture as you go.... the two remaining corners and last section can be a bit tricky.... take a break if you get frustrated (no beer) and come back fresh.....

The rubber seal has to be pulled up and over the aperture until it seats properly on both sides - don't be too concerned about the butyl-mastic bubbling and oozing out - it is being displaced by the aperture.....

Once the assembly is in, remove the excess butyl-mastic - but don't overdo it.... leave some to prevent crud/water finding it's way into the seal...

The corner and over-lap centre pieces are fitted last.... if your corner screw holes are sound - you won't have any trouble.... if not - you'll soon find out....
The centre piece slides across from one section to the other - until it is centred.....

You'll find for the first week, you are scraping little oozes of it out on a daily basis..... after about a fortnight - and after it has been subjected to a bit of hot sun - this should almost come to a stop.....

I have absolutely no idea how long you should leave it until testing the seal under water pressure.... but it shouldn't ever leak when the vehicle gets wet normally ...... any sign of water getting into the vehicle - sadly, means pulling it out and re-fitting it..... as mentioned - windscreen mechanics hate doing these... and finding one who knows what he's doing is becoming very rare.......

Pain in the "butt".... but a job once done correctly - can be completely forgotten about....

Do NOT use silicone to set these rubbers in place.... it's the quickest way of rusting out the aperture.... not to mention, if you ever havet to get the window out - or replace a broken one....... wrecks the rubber (or you will trying to remove the silicone)..... butyl-mastic is and always has been the intended sealant for this type of fitting......

If your aperture is not sound - spend as much time and effort as is necessary to get it right - it is well hidden under the trim... and problems (brown stains) will indicate that it all must come out to be corrected......

The hoodlining is secured under the rubber seal ..... if you do have the window out - it is a very good opportunity to gently prise back the hoodlining and take a peek at the inside of your roof.... you might just be a little shocked in what you find..... condensation is the killer here... cold roof, people inside......... hot day, evaporation ..... etc.etc.etc - the process is a killer......

Hope some of the above helps.....

frats,
Rosco

[EK JAY]

thanks for the info guys new rear screen now in took all of 20minutes fits better then before
just followed the gregorys manual for installing the windscreen
i cleaned up the rear parcel shelf while the window was out had some rust scale and a couple of small holes
around the edge aswell rust proofed and welded up

[rosco]

All good, Jay... glad to learn thay you are now "qualified"....


frats,
Rosco

[EK JAY]

thanks for the post rosco i was hopeing to get a
reply from you as you describe things in a detailed but very understandable
way
i didnt see it until i was finished though

[1962ek]

Travelling TOO fast with the windows down Jay, or the Air Con on full so to speak

[EK JAY]

yeah something like that graham
actually a mate came into work and said Jay have you seen whats happened to
your car and expecting the worse (crashed into ) said $*#@ no and went to look
to see the back window smashed

[1962ek]

Probably some of those indiginous people that live in the area. Did u find the brick in the back seat? or you think maybe they were tryin to steal it and broke trying to get it out?

[EKjimmy]

Bastard, last time i R&R'd a rear screen it took me 5 goes, an afternoon, and it still doesn't fit right


JImmy

[Devilrod]

Rosco's reply needs to be a sticky!!!