kiid i know it was the contact with the road due to visable damage and the circumstances, i did replace the mild steel bolts with high tensile, r&p steering would definately sort this situation, the guy i sold the car to drove it with no dramas including trips to QLD and VIC for a couple of years and eventually put a rack on it only because he wanted to,i might add this car was extremely low at the bottom of the front guard where it meets the sill it was 3" off the ground with nobody in the car
i won't bother with black duck as he seems to have been let loose at the computer unsupervised and seems to be trying to pick a fight he won't win
Thanks for that info Ratbox. I assumed it would of been done before. Seems like a pretty easy thing to do and with good results (lowering + keeping full suspension travel).
I wonder how many cars blackduck has built, compared to how many you've done. Hm. I think i'll listen to you over any dribble that comes from him
DeadSled wrote:Thanks for that info Ratbox. I assumed it would of been done before. Seems like a pretty easy thing to do and with good results (lowering + keeping full suspension travel).
I wonder how many cars blackduck has built, compared to how many you've done. Hm. I think i'll listen to you over any dribble that comes from him
I wouldnt speak too soon deadslead, whats un-reavieled may surprise you ...Plus, I recon that one was a mis-communication. One thinks rack, one thinks box by the sound of it.
Hm. I've seen Ratbox's cars, nothing from blackduck.
I will wait and see haha.
I would also assume that unless its specifically mentioned that a rack and pinion setup was being used, when anyone talks about steering they would just assume its the standard setup.
DeadSled wrote:Interesting post about the crossmember.
I have a question, was speaking to Theo (Thropzed i think its spelt) quite a while ago about lowering an EK/FB while retaining the full suspension travel by shortening the mounts on the crossmember that bolt it to the subframe. I was looking at it a while ago and if you made it so that it bolts almost flush onto the crossmember, instead of however (3" roughly perhaps?) tall the mounts are it would lower the car while keeping full suspension travel.
Does anyone know if that is legal / heard of anyone doing that before?
yes i've done it a number of times, this one had the mounts droped + drop stubbs + cut springs went over a dip in the road and ripped the steering off
I have also done this before on a EH Van, I did put Rack/Pinion in because of exactly the trouble you have with the dropped steering links. Makes for terrible bump and Ackerman angles.
The other thing it did do was raise the engine up, we were running a 253 at the time and the fan was running very close to the top hose and dissy was pretty much touching the wiper motor.
After that trouble we put spacers between the crossmember and re welded infill on the inner guards.
Looked shite hot though...
kiid i know it was the contact with the road due to visable damage and the circumstances, i did replace the mild steel bolts with high tensile, r&p steering would definately sort this situation, the guy i sold the car to drove it with no dramas including trips to QLD and VIC for a couple of years and eventually put a rack on it only because he wanted to,i might add this car was extremely low at the bottom of the front guard where it meets the sill it was 3" off the ground with nobody in the car
i won't bother with black duck as he seems to have been let loose at the computer unsupervised and seems to be trying to pick a fight he won't win [/quote]
BLACK DUCK WROTE
sorry mick i was just taking the piss out of ya. (didnt take much)
kiid i know it was the contact with the road due to visable damage and the circumstances, i did replace the mild steel bolts with high tensile, r&p steering would definately sort this situation, the guy i sold the car to drove it with no dramas including trips to QLD and VIC for a couple of years and eventually put a rack on it only because he wanted to,i might add this car was extremely low at the bottom of the front guard where it meets the sill it was 3" off the ground with nobody in the car
i won't bother with black duck as he seems to have been let loose at the computer unsupervised and seems to be trying to pick a fight he won't win
BLACK DUCK WROTE
sorry mick i was just taking the piss out of ya. (didnt take much) [/quote]
that's kool, this was the only one i had any trouble with like i said it was extremely low having the cut mounts and dropped stubs and cut springs, the others haven't had the droped stubs which can cause trouble in them selves in some circumstances the front crossmember can make contact with the ground before the bumpstops make contact
In regards to my ek, i'm wanting to have air bags all round. I want the car to be able to sit within say a 1/4" from the ground.. but i do want to be able to drive it very low as well.
How do you think it'd go with air bags all round, plus the crossmember mounts shortened? Would i have the same problem you had with that car? I currently have standard HQ stub axles, not lowered ones.
Youd have to do a lot more than shorten those mounts i'd say. Plus you'll have to do big chassis work in the rear.. What size tyre + wheel combo are you looking at?
Look up beks ek or whatever she is called on truckindownunder i think its called? There is a bit of detail on her air bag set up... I heard she's pretty popular amoungst the fbek crowd
Just to put it out there.. i have experience doing a lot of similar shit to this because i have a bunch of mates that have bagged hilux's / rodeos ect. They aren't that much different to ours as far as there rear ends are concerned.
I am aware that i will need to notch the rear end to get that down low, but i'm mainly discussing the front here.
I will be running 14" steelies. Don't know what size tire.