Hi guys.
Have upgraded my ek now to Hr diff and Hr front end with 186s but now face the task of making up a crossmember for the trimatic box. never done this before and would realy appreciate any help you could pass on or know of were one could be purchased ect ect.
Anyway thanks for your time guys and appreciate any help at all. cheers...
Gearbox Crossmember Info
Woodie,
I did think rare spares made something for such mods. I did it years ago but I didnt like the way it turned out. If you have a manual bodied car there is not much to hang a gearbox member off. I braced the floor with 1.5mm plate and hung the member off the floor. I then had some bracing to the tie in member, like I said it worked but I was never happy with it. I have now gone with a chassis kit to hang the member off heaps stronger and neater.
Regards Greg
I did think rare spares made something for such mods. I did it years ago but I didnt like the way it turned out. If you have a manual bodied car there is not much to hang a gearbox member off. I braced the floor with 1.5mm plate and hung the member off the floor. I then had some bracing to the tie in member, like I said it worked but I was never happy with it. I have now gone with a chassis kit to hang the member off heaps stronger and neater.
Regards Greg
-
Woodie
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 3:16 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Rockhampton Queensland
from Woodie.
Thanks Greg for the help. Luckily she's a hydro body so may even go with something like yourself. anyway thanks mate. cheers.....
rear trans mount
Again folk,
back in the dark ages - when I modified my old bus................
To put an aussie and red into my EK I needed a similar mount.
There wasn't any talk of chassis rail kits in those days and Rare's (when they were in Brunswick) used to market a rear transmission mount for an aussie/traumatic.
It is still in the vehicle but most of it will probably be removed when the chassis rail kit goes in.
The mount consists of two great "U" section runners which fit underside of the front to rear inner floor bracings at about the same location on each side of the transmission mount - the runners were slightly off-set with the longer section to the front. These are bolted through the floor with great bloody 3/4" bolts. Welded to those runners at 90 deg. is an inverted wave flat bar of about 4" wide by 3/8" thick. It is shaped to dip under the trans and has a flat centre section wide enough to bolt the trans mount onto. If you go this way, make sure you allow enough room for the speedo cable to exit and run out around the rear of the mount assembly.
It looks pretty lame but does the job. Mine hasn't' moved in all those years.
I think the main reason for the huge bulk was to support both halves of the floor when you remove the hump bracing floor member and cover.
A few years ago I finally got around to fitting a transmission hump cover and fabricated a transmission hump "arch" which was welded into the floor/framework before welding in Hadfield's hump cover. If you want further details of that little venture ppm me and I'll forward some pix of the project.
To my way of thinking, the arch was a case of necessity - I approached many, many fabricators to make up a reinforcement but at $600 and upwards decided to design and fabricate one of my own from 65mm x 25mm x 2mm RHS and cutting through three sides, removing an angled section at 14mm intervals before bending and welding it to effect the "arch" shape. It just fits snugly under the cover and has clearance of around 15mm around the transmission extension. The lower 3" section had to be similarly cut, bent and welded outwardly to suit the angled floor supports and when a tight, interference fit was welded in approximately 4" on the inboard side of the inner sub-frame mounts.
Finally a bolted-on cross-piece on the underside was fitted which can be removed affording room for extracting engine/trans.
The chassis rail kit will certainly tie the two floor halves together and join the sub-frame to the rear axle spring mounts. I will probably leave the Rare's "U" sections in situ and weld them to the chassis rail kit when fitted.
My my little arch will also assist to strengthen the central floor/hump area.
For many, many years I ran with a crude in cab bracing which hid beneath the carpet - was I glad to get rid of that! To cover the hole in the floor, I used a riveted set of panels made from 5 gallon (20 litre) oil drums - again, I am a much happier owner with Hadfield's cover - pity about the carpet, it still shows ugly signs of the bracing.
Car interior will be the last reno - if I live long enough!
Again, hope this gives you some light.
frats,
Rosco
back in the dark ages - when I modified my old bus................
To put an aussie and red into my EK I needed a similar mount.
There wasn't any talk of chassis rail kits in those days and Rare's (when they were in Brunswick) used to market a rear transmission mount for an aussie/traumatic.
It is still in the vehicle but most of it will probably be removed when the chassis rail kit goes in.
The mount consists of two great "U" section runners which fit underside of the front to rear inner floor bracings at about the same location on each side of the transmission mount - the runners were slightly off-set with the longer section to the front. These are bolted through the floor with great bloody 3/4" bolts. Welded to those runners at 90 deg. is an inverted wave flat bar of about 4" wide by 3/8" thick. It is shaped to dip under the trans and has a flat centre section wide enough to bolt the trans mount onto. If you go this way, make sure you allow enough room for the speedo cable to exit and run out around the rear of the mount assembly.
It looks pretty lame but does the job. Mine hasn't' moved in all those years.
I think the main reason for the huge bulk was to support both halves of the floor when you remove the hump bracing floor member and cover.
A few years ago I finally got around to fitting a transmission hump cover and fabricated a transmission hump "arch" which was welded into the floor/framework before welding in Hadfield's hump cover. If you want further details of that little venture ppm me and I'll forward some pix of the project.
To my way of thinking, the arch was a case of necessity - I approached many, many fabricators to make up a reinforcement but at $600 and upwards decided to design and fabricate one of my own from 65mm x 25mm x 2mm RHS and cutting through three sides, removing an angled section at 14mm intervals before bending and welding it to effect the "arch" shape. It just fits snugly under the cover and has clearance of around 15mm around the transmission extension. The lower 3" section had to be similarly cut, bent and welded outwardly to suit the angled floor supports and when a tight, interference fit was welded in approximately 4" on the inboard side of the inner sub-frame mounts.
Finally a bolted-on cross-piece on the underside was fitted which can be removed affording room for extracting engine/trans.
The chassis rail kit will certainly tie the two floor halves together and join the sub-frame to the rear axle spring mounts. I will probably leave the Rare's "U" sections in situ and weld them to the chassis rail kit when fitted.
My my little arch will also assist to strengthen the central floor/hump area.
For many, many years I ran with a crude in cab bracing which hid beneath the carpet - was I glad to get rid of that! To cover the hole in the floor, I used a riveted set of panels made from 5 gallon (20 litre) oil drums - again, I am a much happier owner with Hadfield's cover - pity about the carpet, it still shows ugly signs of the bracing.
Car interior will be the last reno - if I live long enough!
Again, hope this gives you some light.
frats,
Rosco