fbekholden.com

All done. Int wipers work a treat. Could be faster on the fastest setting, but I put that down to the slow base speed.


Clay, if you want the intermittant to be faster, you just need to swap out the 100uF capacitor on the Maxtronic for a 47uF one. See my post https://www.fbekholden.com/forum ...

That looks great! Now you just have to polish up the bumpers

Hey Clay,
I ended up getting my bolts online from fixatefasteners.com.au. They have a good range (of metric). But if you can't wait (and they stock them), then I guess a trip to the big green box is in order.

That is a nice set up you have there Brett.Those linkages look the business too - much better looking than the off the shelf plastic ones. I had a gotcha setting up my linkages (I have replaced them since I posted my SU build) with the 3 posts that hold the long shaft. Initially I just screwed them ...

Thanks for the pics Clay, another great reference. My slightly less desired asymetrical collection will require a little more encouragement to fit. Don't have a good final shot of the restored units but this was my bench test with the old headers

I think I have screenshot of your mods on file Blacky - but I'll take another look. Brett, it's mainly space for the SU's I'm interested in (my set up had 2 front mounted fuel bowls and the rear one is facing the firewall) but with the work I have to do, might as well keep a bit of extra clearance ...

Very handy for me! Have the same extractors along with the triple SU's to massage into that space. Good reference for the firewall massaging required.
Thanks Brett

Thanks for the offer Brett, but I have already cobble together one that should do the job. https://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=272065#p272065
Just need to cut the original shaft and profile a DD into it to accept a 17mmDD to 3/4DD Uni or rag joint. Haven't pulled the trigger on that ...

Thanks for the insight there Brett. I have the same column, but I am going to mount mine to the original style steering box so hopefully there is enough room there to avoid chopping it. But if I need to, now I now how to pull it all apart.

I get aerosols delivered - not sure if it is Aus Post or Courier, but the boxes are clearly labeled road freight only

Thanks for the encouragment!
Took the bonnet camping yesterday as the weather was good.
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It has been sitting in the shed for a few weeks now in bare steel (with a coat of easyphos to temporarily stop it from rusting). I finally got around to ordering some rattle cans of 2K epoxy ...

Formed up a channel.
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Channel ready to plug weld into the frame
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Copper primed and channel welded in - plugs dressed.
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Building a new edge. Probably should have ground the channel down a bit first but was worried that welding into the edge would blow ...

Are we there yet - no! Discovered a world of bog from a previous repair on the top of the door frame. The inner channel is toast on both sides.
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If in doubt, cut it out.
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Prise the bottom of the channel off its spot welds which let go with a little ...

Took a bit of time plotting and planning how I was going to accurately back the weld with copper. Used a square and a ruler to mark the top of frame and top of the door, then used the ruler to help position the copper which was wedged in and held by a dolly welded to a bit of metal bar. Simple.
IMG ...

Front drivers door outer skin has a few holes at the bottom. This time I had a look inside and yes it is rotting from the inside out.
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So cut around the rot and ground the bottom lip off.
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Grind down the spot welds and peel back
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Clean up
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