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Hey Scott

Good work there, the stainless trim will polish up nice. Did you use a steel hammer on the window trim, is that why the trim has stretched? What did you use to tack the trim back together?

Stephen


Hey Stephen, I used hardwood pieces profiled to the curves and a steel hammer to ...

ardiesse wrote: Fri Jan 09, 2026 6:25 pm . . . I think I might have a set of windscreen reveal moldings . . .

Rob

I'll keep you in mind and be in touch Rob if this doesn't polish up nice.

Very envious of you collection there Blacky!

Pulled the front and rear windscreens out for an inspection. Front is toughened and has a chip and wiper scratches so need to get a new one. Rear looks good and if you squint in the right light you can even see the safety watermark top centre of glass.

Grabbed all the stainless trim out of the ...

But not done yet. Body deadener. If I'm stripping the paint off then this has to go. Could use heat, but that ends up in a mess so went with the trusty chisel instead.
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Much time later, and then som more as I tried to extricate all the loose bits of bitumen with a vacuum and air gun ...

Took the xmas break to finalise the boot popper. What started out as a quick test fit to prove the concept ended up being a slow and painfully boring repetitive fitment as each of my brilliant ideas literally unravelled. From a fraying cable, to the lock not engaging when closed, to just the general ...

I tried to mimic the original but you can save a bit of fiddling and make it a rectangle with a tail that you can bend to hold it in place when fitting.

I made my own using a bit of scrap off a stainless rangehood. viewtopic.php?p=269865#p269865

You discussion on the Torrie forum was part of my research :thumbsup: . In the graph I have included the TW. 12.5 seems like a good result.
Went RED springs too for the dampers. Also ended up mixing and matching the piston dampers till I got them all in the recommended 5-7sec window for the piston ...

Thanks Clay.
Worth mentioning that I have rebuilt the carbs and replaced the OA7 needles with SW needles. Why? Did a bunch of reading in my SU handbook where I found all the fixed HS6 needles that were used on cars where the capacity per carb was at least 1000cc. I then scraped all the data from ...

Also probably should have mentioned re drilling out the bushing - I re-profiled the drill bit to reduce the angle till it was almost flat so it wouldn't bite too much into the soft brass. That made a huge difference when controlling the drill press.

You did well forming s/steel which can be a pain to work & drill compared to plain steel sheet. Was the 0.5mm too thin to hold its shape??

Yeah the 0.5 ended up being a wavy mess and was still not very rigid even with bends and a couple beads for strength. And your right, stainless takes a lot ...

Next up - stainless heat shield. Don’t really like how close the front carb float bowl is to the exhaust.
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So did a bit of CAD
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Being a tight arse I tried to use a bit of 0.5mm stainless exhaust fan shroud.
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Ok call that a test, remade the wooded buck and ...

Used the jig again to help square things up while I used a centre punch in the drill to press the bushings in.
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And done.
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Now dealing with the most important part - reaming the new bushings out to 5/16. From my newfound knowledge from You Tube, what I needed ...

Could have gone ahead and drilled the three bodies out, but got paranoid that the OD of the replacement bushings might be different to the listed size, so while I waited for the referb kit, I went ahead and dealt with another problem. Crank case breather, which is plumbed directly to the manifold ...