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Did they log intake temps at that boost level?


No mate, it has an inlet temp warning light on the dash and it hasnt come on yet - going to try a smaller pulley on the pump -of course :ebiggrin: - and see what happens then. Took me mate old Mick out for a squirt in it today and frightened ...

Did they log intake temps at that boost level?

More knackered rubber bits. I'm wondering if detergent is doing the damage??????

Harv wrote: Tue Apr 21, 2026 1:12 pm With all the fancy stuff on the market, it still surprises me that you can't buy a CV/balljoint boot with a closeable seam to allow it to be installed (wrapped around and sealed) with the joint intact.

Cheers,
Harv

You mean these Andrew?

14 years since I fitted these as new from RS. Not only these, but every bit of my vacuum tubing for my wipers and washers has fallen to bits. The rubber products made now aren't of the quality they should be.

The middle sump was the original one on the engine in my FB (J serial number block) and that's the one that always hit the connecting rod.
The bottom one is what I've refitted and clears ok.
I'd say the top one might be 48/215 and FJ with the different font end and reversed front engine mount which ...

Got everything hooked up and turned the key today. Spent most of the day sorting plumbing and wiring in the engine bay to suit the changes I've made in a few areas. Everything is running fine but I've noticed a 10 psi drop in oil pressure compared to when it was running on the dyno. I'm pretty sure ...

It's 5/8 tubing. No SAE flares needed. Once clamped, tarnished copper sticks to rubber really well.

Engine and box in. Happily the damper clears the crossmember and sway bar.

Errol62 wrote: Fri Apr 17, 2026 7:51 pm You are going to notch the splash pans? They help with radiator efficiency I believe.

Not sure yet. I may notch them or press them into a different shape. It'll depend on how much clearance is needed.

Knocked up the 1/2" fan spacer and fitted it today. Fan clears the vibration damper nicely.
Have now fitted the steering box and got things ready so I can fit the engine and box tomorrow.


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Thats purty :loveee: :loveee: :loveee:

How much rooting around is the hydraulic lifter conversion mate ??? I would be real interested in doing that


You need to make a jig that supports the drill bit in the lifter bore due to the angle. You also have to calculate the angle required vs the ...

Harv wrote: Mon Apr 13, 2026 12:19 am Did you tap the dipstick port to 1/8 NPT? Curious, as the factory port size is near perfect for tapping that thread.

Cheers,
Harv

Yes mate. 1/8npt. No drilling required.

Well that's a wrap on the engine and box. I completed what I hope is the final solution to a leak free grey motor being a screw in dipstick. For those that know, the crank rotation at higher rpms tends to push oil up the dipstick and past the crappy felt seal.
Previously I had also repaired an ...

Yes, and a fatter neck on the suction chamber, BUT, HIF 4,6, & 7 carbs ran either normal or ball bearing suction chambers. Metric versions, HIF 38 & 44 ran only ball bearing chambers.