Rosco's paint tips

Includes sheet metal, rubbers, bumpers, badges and rust repairs.

Moderators: reidy, Blacky

rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

HVLP gun

Post by rosco »

As promised, used the new touch up gun today - took pix, but have to go to bed..............
Report - for $59 I think it well worthwhile - has its quirks, but once set up worked fine - even in an overhead position...........until the paint ran out and over my face and glasses - the vent hole is a little too large, be careful if you do this with this gun.................

Paint flow and spread - good.

Cleaning - a breeze, all fittings were easily removed.

Pressure and fan - pressure was a bit finicky, got it eventually by "sound"

Fan - basically it's off or on - there is around three turns of the adjustment but after the first half a turn - it's on full fan anyway.

Feel, good balance, controls don't getg in the way of hand whilst gripping gun.

I may modify it a bit to alter the air valve piston length - it's too long and "bends" slightly when the trigger is pulled back.

Air consumption - quite good, my compressor hardly did any work at all in the twenty minutes or so I was spraying in the boot...............maybe two/three cycles.

So overall, I found it quite good - not the precision gun my other touch up is, but very well suited to engine work - small repairs and accessories.
$59 its a winner - I'd buy another if this one broke, lost, stolen etc.....

frats,
Rosco
FB MAD
Posts: 2725
Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 7:59 pm
State: NOT ENTERED
Location: Upper Hunter N.S.W

Post by FB MAD »

Don't let any kids near it like I did :oops: :oops: :oops: ,

Terry.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

touch up gun

Post by rosco »

In all the pix I took yesterday - didn't take one of the gun..............

Here are three pix of my current project - the paint was shot using the new toy.............

First pic is of the parts sanded down to bare steel, treated with phospate, re-sanded and treated with de-oxidine ready for 1K etch.

Image

Second pic is after applying the 1k etch - this was the first time I have sprayed "overhead" - I am now savvy to the generous vent hole on the top of the toy gun cup - also have some nicely 1k etched glasses..........

Image

Third pic is after two coats of primer have been applied - these needed to be thinned down a little further due to the angle at which the gun was used - it starved for paint when the bowl was horizontal - so I thinned it a little further.

Image

Next step is to spray a mist coat of GMH black over the primer and "block it back" - revealing the "low" spots for fine filler.......

Try and take two pix of the gun tomorrow - both assembled and stripped.

frats,
Rosco
rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

touch up gun

Post by rosco »

As promised,
two pix of the little cheapy - works fine.

First pic is of assembled - comes with small box of bits - spare paint filter, hose barbed end, spanner, brush and instructions - which do not relate to the gun packaged! guess you get this with strict quality control...........

Image

Second pic is of disassembly - all pieces fit neatly, machining of working parts is very good.

Image

Modifications I made were to shorten the needle spring (it was far too heavy and would have "grooved" the needle tip/seat prematurely).
I also removed the fan control and cleaned out the casting "muck" works a lot better now........

The air piston rod needs to be shortened - it is too long and suffers a little bending as the trigger is pulled back through it's stroke - I will "build" up the contact area under the trigger and shorten the rod..............

Takes about three minutes to strip, clean, oil and re- assemble - I would suggest throwing the "universal" spanner away and using a set of ring spanners - especially for the paint tip.......

frats,
Rosco
KFH
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 12:41 pm
State: NOT ENTERED

Post by KFH »

Roscoe I have sent a PM. I trust it goes through

Keith
rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

Post by rosco »

Answered, Keith

frats,
Rosco
KFH
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 12:41 pm
State: NOT ENTERED

Post by KFH »

Thanks Rosco. Thanks for the advice.

Keith
rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

Post by rosco »

Hi all,
haven't had a reply to this topic for some time................

Just an update for those reading my thoughts.

I have found a marvelous system for painting rusted surfaces - in fact this system works best on rust!

It also suggests using it in place of an etch primer - which I am seriously considering when next I build a finish from bare metal.

The system is called POR 15 - it is only in the past 12 months or so that I have heard of it - but it has been around in the USA for 30 years - apparently.

Basically this paint etches best into rusted surfaces - new/good steel is first treated to "create" a salt and peppered rust like etch.

Unlike most systems, this one actually hardens and strengthens with humidity.

I have now used it on two areas - one bare steel and one factory coated steel.
I have had excellent results with both.
The product goes absolutely rock hard yet the component can be bent/twisted/folded and there is no sign of cracking/splitting or even chipping when struck with something solid.

There are many "musts" which need be read to achieve this result.
To read more (and I get no commission) go to www.por15.com.au
Will post a pic or two as I progress with the system.

I am currently blocking back the interior of my luggage compartment and the visible components (except fender sides) will be sprayed in acrylic black gloss - I am currently blocking back the second primer under "guide coat".
There are many, many areas requiring filling to get a reasonable surface on which to get a finish worthy of acrylic - post some up when I get there.

Ok, just couldn't help myself

- first pic is of blocked back and filled (K & H pedigree gold fine filler) first four/five coats of primer - under this is bare steel, re-enforced filler to major creases/dips/spot weld holes etc and 1K etch primer.

Image

- second pic is of next three/four coats of primer beneath thin black guide coat.

Image

- final pic is after another blocking back (lhs pic this time) and a final two coats of primer (white) before guide coating - I like to leave primer for four/five days @ 20 deg to flatten or "pull down" the film before guide coating and blocking back.

Image

Currently I am blocking down these (hopefully) final primer coats ready for a number of top coats/block down and re-coat.
This is my method of working acrylic - many stop at two primers and a few "generous" top coats before a machine buff. I'm a bit crazy, but I enjoy working paint my way.................

frats,
Rosco
rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

Post by rosco »

12 hours of blocking back later.....................took care of Good Friday......

Pix are left and right sides of today's effort.
Used 400 grit wet with Velvet soap to keep the cuts clear.

Broke through to the yellow etch primer in about five places so this means more etch, primer and another blocking back - guess the first few colour (if you can call black a colour) coats won't go on until next weekend.............

Image

Image

fingers are very, very sore - any longer and webbing will have started to form between my fingers............. went through 2 sheets of 400 grit cut into 2" x 1" squares for my metal and rubber "pads"..................

Having a day away from the luggage compartment tomorrow - may work on the paint under the car - try to straighten my back out after today's foetal position all day...............

frats,
Rosco
User avatar
ekdave1962
Posts: 413
Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2007 8:06 pm
State: NOT ENTERED
Location: Geelong Vic

geez rosco

Post by ekdave1962 »

hey rosco .. ya going to have to install a mirror in the boot so we can inspect the job at the national .. man u must be a patient bloke . all that work on an un seen area .

cant wait to see what u so with the out side ..

D
Malcolm
Posts: 709
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:20 am
State: NOT ENTERED
Location: Gympie

cams paint project

Post by Malcolm »

Mate you obviously have way too much time on your hands.

I don't think I've ever seen anyone spend so much time on the inside of the boot area.
You are definately a perfectionist.

I certainly don't want you looking too closely at my car at yamba.

Coming along nicely

Cheers

Mal
Malcolm W.
rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

Post by rosco »

Thanks Dave and Malcolm,
outside is pretty ordinary - I haven't sprayed anything since I did the roof prior to the Nowra nats.............. you'll see plenty of voids and mistakes in my exterior work - I won't need to point out the "wrongs" in the engine bay or luggage compartment either - they annoy the heck out of me - but this is part of "learning" and I believe I'm getting better with it.

Today's installment.................

Filled the voids which showed up after blocking back the guide coat.......... and filled a few other little pieces I found whilst in there yesterday.
Etch primed bare steel and fills then sprayed another two (2) coats of primer surfacer just on dark tonight - it will sit for four/five days now before the next guide coat and blocking back.............. hopefully, this will then be ready for colour coats....................

Image

Image

frats,
Rosco
EKSPCL
Posts: 794
Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:36 pm
State: NOT ENTERED
Location: Langwarrin, Victoria

Post by EKSPCL »

This is exactly the way I plan on doing my EK!
The long, painstaking, finger bleeding way.
I think it makes you enjoy the finished product a whole lot more.

Keep the posts coming rosco, nice stuff
rosco
Posts: 2569
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2004 8:34 pm
State: VIC
Location: Melbourne

Post by rosco »

OK - for a day when I was going to let wounded fingers heal - just couldn't stand to look at it any longer - decided to scrape/sand back the inner rear end panel and supports.
I don't know if anyone has done this, but the tank filler pipe seems to be coated in lead..................?

In the pic below, you'll see today's effort - only 11 hours to get to this.
It clearly shows how fishoil works - if you look into the two side supports you'll see where "high tide" used to be when the boot seal leaked and let water in................

I drilled a hole in each base and sanded the rusted surface - finally coating it with fishoil before plastering that dreaded body deadener over it later on.

You'll notice the rust had not progressed, but still existed under the fishoil
You will also see where I blanked the hole made where the trailer socket was fitted - it's now fitted to a welded plate to the tow bar.
This hole was blanked with a stainless plate, re-enforced filler sandwiched the plate to the end panel - it has served well and I see no reason to make change............

Image

The plan for the rear end panel and supports it to use POR 15 - I nearly had it ready tonight, but being the first time, decided to start fresh on it tomorrow.

There will be a few pix tomorrow night - one of each process and the final....

Just going to flick across to the POR 15 item I posted and will duplicate this .
Tomorrow's update will be in the POR 15 post...............

frats,
Rosco
Malcolm
Posts: 709
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:20 am
State: NOT ENTERED
Location: Gympie

cams paint project

Post by Malcolm »

Rosco,

Have you done the whole car or are you just starting. Your patients is unreal. I'm afraid if I couldn't have sandblasted it, it wouldn't have been painted.
Malcolm W.
Post Reply