Harv's traction bar thread

Includes shock absorbers, springs and steering linkages.

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Errol62
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Errol62 »

Hoonriffic Bevan

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FbSTDwagon
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by FbSTDwagon »

What a good read!
I had never heard of such an animal named ‘traction bar’ before!
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Harv
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Harv »

Man I'm old. I thought I was a Westy, but apparently am a bogan (and perhaps a bevan) :lol:

The hoon bit still fits though 8)

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Errol62 »

You got out westied by the reffos long ago…..


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Harv
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Harv »

Getting closer.

Need to get the bars horizontal. Bump stops trimmed to 1 1/8”. Needs a 5-degree wedge in lieu of the white wood chock.

Final trim up, then off to the brother-in-law for weld out.
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Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Blacky »

Don't you need clearance from front snubber to spring perch mate ? I wouldn't think having them hard up at rest would work ?
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


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Harv
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Harv »

For race vehicles, no gap. For street vehicles, about 1/4" gap. The no-gap option works OK, but can make the rear suspension a little twitchy on the street.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by EK283 »

Good Job Harv,

Drill the sides out with a hole saw to keep the weight down. It is a race car you know !!!!!!!!

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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Harv »

EK283 wrote: Tue Nov 30, 2021 8:30 amDrill the sides out with a hole saw to keep the weight down. It is a race car you know !!!!!!!!
But then where will I put my Traction.... Action! decals? :oops: :lol:

Thinking it through, I need to tilt the bars up. Normally a steel wedge is used between the traction bar and bottom spring pad. The Mr Gasket/Lakemaster wedges are expensive (~$80 for two bits of steel :roll: ). Could make some out of ally plate, but had a better idea. The suspension rubbers on the FB are all pretty much flogged out. It would probably pay to replace them (and see where the new ones sit) before getting too serious on the traction bars. Nolathane will be stiffer than rubber, so some new Nolathane needs buying. Looking at the Nolathane saddle bushes, they are pretty hefty (20mm thick each) with little smoosh. I reckon I can skim down the bottom one to get the tilt I need without a wedge.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Errol62 »

The sides of the bar are what provides the bulk of the torsional resistance, as well as the all important sticker surface of course. You could though take to the bottom and top with the hole saw.


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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Harv »

I once spent an afternoon walking over Harrops Howler, back when John Brown owned it. That thing had holes drilled in places I never knew were possible.

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Harv
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Blacky »

Harv wrote: Tue Nov 30, 2021 7:09 am For race vehicles, no gap. For street vehicles, about 1/4" gap. The no-gap option works OK, but can make the rear suspension a little twitchy on the street.

Cheers,
Harv
isn't this going to be licenced ??? I thought that was what all the rigmarole with engineers was about ????
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Harv »

Engineered and registered... but running mech injection, no interior. It will be obnoxious to drive on the street, but will make me grin when I do it.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Blacky »

Harv wrote: Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:13 pm Engineered and registered... but running mech injection, no interior. It will be obnoxious to drive on the street, but will make me grin when I do it.

Cheers,
Harv
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :thumbsup:
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


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Re: Harv's traction bar thread

Post by Harv »

There is to be no 'laffin at my boogery tack welds...

traction bars tacked up.jpg
traction bars tacked up.jpg (491.52 KiB) Viewed 474 times

Waiting now for the nolathane saddle bushes to arrive, then final fit and fiddle.

Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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