Gearbox ID

Includes clutch, transmission, propeller shaft,
universal joints, differential and rear axle.

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fbvan
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Gearbox ID

Post by fbvan »

G'day All

I need an opinion on a couple of gearboxes I have found in the shed. Must have bought them a long time ago. so not sure what condition they are in.

The first is I think an EJ crash box?

The other is later but I know you guys will know for sure what it is.
Three speed all synchro is my pick.

What do you think?
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Blacky
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by Blacky »

Top one looks like all synchro with what appears to be a Dellow adaptor for the slave cylinder ?

Bottom pics are EJ/EH type box
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


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ardiesse
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by ardiesse »

The bottom picture is an early EH 149 gearbox (because the bellhousing is ribbed, but doesn't have the EJ transmission mounts, but yet the rear extension housing has the boss for a rear engine mount).

Rob
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by fbvan »

Thanks guys. I knew I could rely on your knowledge. Just need some linkage rods for the crashbox.
Any clues for these?
ardiesse
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by ardiesse »

Are you thinking of using this gearbox in an FB/EK?

Quick way of finding out whether the bellhousing's from an EJ or an EH is to count the bolt holes for the starter motor. EJ: 3. EH: 2.

You'd need the selector levers from EJ-HR, including the special wave washers, and EJ/EH gearshift linkages (which may need modification even then). But bear in mind that this gearbox won't fit in a manual FB/EK transmission tunnel. And the later crashbox is longer than the earlier version, so you'd need to get your driveshaft shortened to suit. You'd have to use an EJ/EH speedo cable; and because the clutch slave cylinder is on the left hand side, you'll need an HD/HR clutch hose (the poly one-piece one that goes from the master cylinder, across the firewall and down to the slave cylinder). The late EH - HK clutch cover won't fit the early bellhousing - only an EH 149 one will fit.

To avoid blowing the gearbox up, it'd be a good idea to separate the gearbox from the bellhousing and check that the big Belleville washer is not cracked. Also, the clutch fork develops fatigue cracks around the pivot ball, and then the pivot ball pushes through the clutch fork. Clutch doesn't disengage after that.

Rob
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Errol62
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by Errol62 »

Checked the MPC and the part number on the cover of the early box is specific to HR. Friend of mine did run one of these in his fb many years ago using the fb linkages and column levers hooked up no doubt to the hr arms on the box. Used an eh tail shaft.
Cheers
Clay


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fbvan
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by fbvan »

Thanks all.
A wealth of knowledge on here.
It was a long while ago but the HR reference does seem to be right.
I remembered picking it up from a young guy in Brisbane.
The memory seems to be slipping a bit. :ughh: :ughh: :ughh:
Too many places,too long ago, too many parts collected, that is my excuse. :wink34: :wink34: :wink34: :wink34:
FbSTDwagon
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by FbSTDwagon »

ardiesse wrote: Wed Sep 23, 2020 1:18 pm Are you thinking of using this gearbox in an FB/EK?

Quick way of finding out whether the bellhousing's from an EJ or an EH is to count the bolt holes for the starter motor. EJ: 3. EH: 2.

You'd need the selector levers from EJ-HR, including the special wave washers, and EJ/EH gearshift linkages (which may need modification even then). But bear in mind that this gearbox won't fit in a manual FB/EK transmission tunnel. And the later crashbox is longer than the earlier version, so you'd need to get your driveshaft shortened to suit. You'd have to use an EJ/EH speedo cable; and because the clutch slave cylinder is on the left hand side, you'll need an HD/HR clutch hose (the poly one-piece one that goes from the master cylinder, across the firewall and down to the slave cylinder). The late EH - HK clutch cover won't fit the early bellhousing - only an EH 149 one will fit.

To avoid blowing the gearbox up, it'd be a good idea to separate the gearbox from the bellhousing and check that the big Belleville washer is not cracked. Also, the clutch fork develops fatigue cracks around the pivot ball, and then the pivot ball pushes through the clutch fork. Clutch doesn't disengage after that.

Rob
Cheers Rob you have answered the question before I could ask it!

I have an EJ gearbox at home and was going to slot it in the FB wagon.

After reading the above I will persevere with the FB crash box’s just for simplicity.
Drew
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by ardiesse »

Staying with the FB gearbox is a good move i.m.o, Drew. I've been reading through an on-line archive of the "Accelerator" magazine. The EJ gearbox was the subject of more than one article. Nasco released shims and circlips in various thicknesses for the input shaft. Owing to "production tolerances" (a.k.a. design flaws), EJ gearboxes were prone to eating up the top gear synchro cone on full throttle in second gear.

Rob
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by FbSTDwagon »

ardiesse wrote: Sun Aug 15, 2021 5:54 pm Staying with the FB gearbox is a good move i.m.o, Drew. I've been reading through an on-line archive of the "Accelerator" magazine. The EJ gearbox was the subject of more than one article. Nasco released shims and circlips in various thicknesses for the input shaft. Owing to "production tolerances" (a.k.a. design flaws), EJ gearboxes were prone to eating up the top gear synchro cone on full throttle in second gear.

Rob
Yeah wow ok, I’m a bit surprised as I though a newer box would mean a bette box…

But maybe not!

Cheers mate for the info
Drew
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by Blacky »

I know for a fact they didnt last very long in old Shake Rattle n Roll :lol: :lol: neither did axles ............. :ebiggrin:
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.


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Errol62
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by Errol62 »

Seems to be some conjecture on this topic, with some saying or assuming later and red motor boxes are stronger, and others saying the FX to EK are stronger. Issues limiting my choices are the common ones. Want to retain original column shift, want to keep floor intact and want to be able to enjoy the power of the big block HP motor now and again with out issue. Not sure whether to try a HR HK crash box. Some say they are they strongest, and fit with some shoehorning. Still not dure about volumn shift compatibity though.

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ardiesse
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by ardiesse »

Clay,

The old crashbox had some more development work done on it for the EH. The gears were made of stronger material (note in "Accelerator" saying it's OK to put EH gears in an EJ box, but not the other way 'round), and various other parts dimensioning changes to prevent the top gear synchro cone being chomped up.

I ran a hotted-up X2 motor in the ex-family EK for a couple of years (much to father's disgust), and the original gearbox coped well.

Bill Wedd (FE-FC) installs an aluminium spacer between the main bearing outer race and the front of the rear extension housing in his grey gearbox for motorsport.

Rob
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Errol62
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by Errol62 »

Thanks Rob. You are referring to the original EK box or original X2 box? Can you say if the EH to HK crash boxes are basically the same and do they work with ek column shift?


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Errol62
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Re: Gearbox ID

Post by Errol62 »

My friend tells me they do work with the original linkage. I’m on the lookout for a later crash box now. Damn, I had a clutch cover for one but sold it.


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