Front bumper irons

[rosco]

004 rh angles mail.jpg (105.98 KiB) Viewed 284 times

This one shows the bend from underneath looking up.

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

007 rh bumper mounted mail.jpg (114.55 KiB) Viewed 284 times

This one was taken from the edge of the guard.. looking across - don't know if it helps at all, but you can see both irons in this.
I fitted the bolts from the inside.. and the nuts from the outside with spring washers and flat washers on them.

I also cut out some thin neoprene rubber as a gasket to fit against the sub-frame... I like to fit rubber gaskets where there is risk of crud getting in and eating away at two flat pieces of metal bolted together...

frats,
Rosco

[Brett027]

Looks very tidy that front-something to aim for. What's the paint? Thanks for the pics Rosco.

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[rosco]

I'm a bit of an odd-ball, Brett.... I don't just paint what I can see.. I paint everything.
When I stripped the insides of the bumpers back to the "faux" chrome - I painted a few coats of fishoilene over them to seal them out.. leaving a few days for each coat to glaze over.... when I was happy with the coating - I sprayed enamel undercoat on it.... then top-coated it with White Knight epoxy enamel in "aluminium" color... that was the bumpers and over-riders.
I did the same to all the bumper irons as well.. but by this time, I'd been painting other sub-floor stuff with White Knight hammered metal Charcoal... I do like that colour.. gives the impression that it's very clean steel. The coating goes quite hard over summer and it's probably as good a protection as you can get without going to POR15...

What you can see in those pix are all White Knight epoxy enamel... with aluminium on the bumper and over-rider internals.... and hammered metal charcoal on the other bits...

I'll see if I can find a pic of more of the underneath.. a lot of it is POR15... but the sills and some of the rear floor and up the boot walls are W/K hammered metal.. I find it good paint.. it can almost be "plastered" on to build whatever thickness you want... as long as the steel is well sealed with fishoilene and undercoat... the top coats do the heavy lifting to protection under there....

See if I can find some pix to add here...

rear floor 0002 mail.jpg (104.68 KiB) Viewed 275 times

The pix are out of order... the first one should have come up second...
The sills in the second pic show it clean again after a rub down with some soapy water and dry off with a towel..

The next pic shows what it looked like after getting back from a run over road works which were wet ... sills picked up a bit of muck on them .. but the rest of it stayed pretty clean... needless to say, it was all sparkly new looking again after a scrub up...

I like to go over looking under the car every now and then (with a wet rag in hand)... checking for stone chips.

The POR15 is mainly up the front on the toe-boards and under the front guards where the front tyres tend to create havoc with anything which can chip... also a fair bit of it down the back where the rear tyres throw stones up as well..... so far, not one chip in POR15 yet.. and we've been over some fairly rough territory ..

axle housing centre 004 mail.jpg (89.99 KiB) Viewed 275 times

The two pix below is of the rear underside..

001 underside rear left mail.jpg (127.58 KiB) Viewed 274 times

001 underside rear right mail.jpg (113.05 KiB) Viewed 274 times

I might further throw in some suggestions to anyone who wants to go this far.. or anyone who wants to add a bit more protection to the underside....
I use "butyl-mastic" on all the gaps between the floor and top-hats.... and also the openings around the jacking point frames. I did this after the undercoat went on.. then painted more undercoat on after it had cured enough to paint....

Further, I drilled drainage holes in everything under there which could trap water... the jack frames, top hats and sills are all open to drain at the lowest point on all of it...

With the holes, drilled - I could push a flexible dip tube into the area and pump fishoil in using an aerosol can... plugged up the drainage holes first, left for a few days to penetrate - the removed the bungs and drained out the excess fishoil...

I go way what most people would with my old bus to preserve it.. I lost a sub-frame to rust (left front corner).. I know what a build up of crud can do.. and, whilst we are on the subject - please... everyone! - go to Clark rubber and get two 1" blanking rubbers and fit them to the holes for the socket to enter for removing the outrigger bolts... that's what killed my sub-frame... all the rubbish and debris that went into it through these two holes in front of the radiator baffle... and - drill holes in the bottom of the sub-frame to allow any water to get out.... it can't go "uphill" over the crossmember mounts... and it will well up if the two pathetic little drain holes at the front corners block up - and they will... please check these and take action..

if you want more - happy to post up... including pix of it in red enamel undercoat..

frats,
Rosco

[Brett027]

Thank you very much - useful and comprehensive description and results show clearly. The hammer-tone clears up what was puzzling me on the bumper irons. Its a credit to you.

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[Errol62]

Yes Rosco, I got suitable blanking grommets at mitre 10.

A shutz gun is great for shooting the fisholene inside the sills and subframe legs etc. mine came with a short length of clear tube and 360 deg nozzle. Replaced the short hose with a longer length. Holesaw and more plugs under scuff plates and in the floor above no 1 body member. Four litre tin of fisholene to refill the 1 litre tin which fits the shutz gun.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Errol62]

And the Selleys butyl mastic from Bunnings. I use it as seam sealer, under hinges, between panels and on windscreens. Top stuff.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[rosco]

Your great grandkids will be driving this around - and there still won't be any rust in the sills, Clay...

I made up my own little device... in another life (I live them all in parallels) I have drills which go down to human hair diameter..
I made up a little plug and drilled radially around the end to make a "fan"... filed down the feed end to be a shrink fit into some thin PVC tubing.. a length of about 1200 mm... I drilled intervals all along under my sills which would take this tubing and connected the other end up to a drilled out aerosol head with a tapped brass connector... can't tell you how many cans of fishoil I used.. but cats were still zeroing on on our place for weeks afterwards...
Your shutz gun method would have been a lot easier...

And yes - butyl-mastic.. magic for our needs and purposes. I hate silicone... at a push, I'll go with Sikaflex for some jobs.. but my car won't ever see silicone again (except for the brake fluid in both brake and clutch lines)...

I used grey butyl-mastic to seal the top of the trim on the doors... you can't see it unless your nose hits the door panel.. but it seals out all the crap which flows down under there..

Further ... when I sprayed the doors and rear end.. I fitted nylon trim retainers... with stainless self-tappers.... and used a little Dremel machine with a small grinding wheel to make "vents" on the underside of all trims.. you can't see them unless you look up from below... if anything ever gets in there again - it will come out... nothing to rust in there anyway - but peace of mind... I also ground out little drain ports in the rear letters of the boot... I made up and fitted very thin neoprene gaskets before re-fitting them to the boot... I love drainage ports... seen way too much damage in panels not to put them in when I am working....

Final point - and this is a biggie for those interested.... everything I work on, I engrave a secret number which is registered with my insurer... it's a unique number that is easily used... PM me if you want details.

Almost every thing I have worked on with my old bus for the past 20 years has this number in it... and photographed... All of it is well and truly hidden from obvious identification.. but, it is easily found by the pix...

Ok - that's enough for one sitting.. I'm running out of screen ink again... where's the bottle?

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Thanks Brett... I'll throw one up of the interior floor now... same deal... fishoilene on most of it... a zillion coats of fishoilene, enamel undercoat and Epoxy Enamel topcoats... the steel in the floor of this old bus could be taken out and it would support the vehicle and passengers in paint alone.... both top and bottom...

Where's some pix.. ? BRB

The attachment flr fnt bl 006 mail.jpg is no longer available

forget the tape unit radio and dash fascia centre in this pic... the original radio is back in and an unmarked fascia has been fitted... I"ll never cut into this one...

flr fnt bl 001 mail.jpg (305.04 KiB) Viewed 259 times

The White Knight hammered metal epoxy enamel on the inside is "Pacific Blue".

frats,
Rosco