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Dipstick
Dipstick
Just tinkering chasing a couple minor oil leaks and noticed my dipstick has the stopper welded on fairly recently - can anyone tell me if its in the right place? Wouldn’t want to be filling to wrong level - is it the right one as I thought they had a cup washer at the top 
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Re: Dipstick
FJW....
For what it is worth.... my opinion is that the best way to check where your markings are on the dipstick - is to completely drain the oil at an oil change, and measure exactly the amount of oil that goes into the crankcase..... you can then either adjust the stopper on the dipstick, or make markings of your own at the "full" line.
There is a quart variance between the "full" and "low" marks... 2 pints... the engine will run fine anywhere between these... but, it will "aerate" the oil if it is overfull... the crankshaft does this... in motion.
At next oil change (if you do it yourself, and there is absolutely no rocket science in the process if you don't)... get an accurate measuring vessel and add exactly 6 pints on a level floor surface... start the motor and run it for a bit... park it again on the level surface and wait a good 10 minutes.
then, check the level on your dipstick and adjust it so that this level sits at the "full" line...
My practice,
frats,
Rosco
For what it is worth.... my opinion is that the best way to check where your markings are on the dipstick - is to completely drain the oil at an oil change, and measure exactly the amount of oil that goes into the crankcase..... you can then either adjust the stopper on the dipstick, or make markings of your own at the "full" line.
There is a quart variance between the "full" and "low" marks... 2 pints... the engine will run fine anywhere between these... but, it will "aerate" the oil if it is overfull... the crankshaft does this... in motion.
At next oil change (if you do it yourself, and there is absolutely no rocket science in the process if you don't)... get an accurate measuring vessel and add exactly 6 pints on a level floor surface... start the motor and run it for a bit... park it again on the level surface and wait a good 10 minutes.
then, check the level on your dipstick and adjust it so that this level sits at the "full" line...
My practice,
frats,
Rosco
Re: Dipstick
Cheers Rosco - yes planning on doing them all myself now.
Do you make any extra allowance if an AC filter fitted?
Do you make any extra allowance if an AC filter fitted?
You will find me lost somewhere!
Re: Dipstick
Most definitely, FJW....
When doing the oil change - change the filter as well.
You'll need to know how much oil the filter holds... don't fall for the trap of measuring the amount of oil which comes out when you drain the oil from the crankcase and the oil filter.... we don't know the volume of the oil filter... or how much "was" in the crankcase.
If you can measure the amount of oil in the filter... just add that volume to the 6 pints needed in the crankcase...
Then, as previously suggested -start the motor up and let it warm up... feel the oil filter body and it should get hot......
Stop the engine, and only allow a minute for the oil to settle in the crankcase this time... or, you risk oil from the filter "back draining" down into the crankcase and giving you a higher than "in running" level in the crankcase....
Then, as previously suggested - adjust your dipstick so that the "full" mark sits where the level of the oil is....
Don't leave it more than a minute after stopping the engine - or you'll run the risk of running the engine low on oil....
My guess is that the filter will hold at least one pint... if not two....
Perhaps, the clever engineers we had back in the day made use of being able to purchase a gallon of oil.... and the two pints would be used to fill the oil filter... I don't know, only guessing..
There are others in here who will know the volume of the oil filter - I don't.
I do know my Frantz filter holds exactly two pints... (it's a "toilet roll" filter - don't ever be tempted to use an ordinary toilet roll in one of these - you'l stuff the engine.. if anyone is using one, or is about to - they are a special filter which "looks" like a toilet roll).
Yours' will just be a paper element, I suspect... convoluted paper... exactly the same as what is inside a spin on filter.
Don't be fooled either - when the oil is cold - it doesn't go through the filter... it goes via the "by-pass" valve.... until it warms up and thins up enough to feed through the paper...
Your's will be a "by pass" filter arrangement... not a "full flow".... spin on type...
They all work fine.... even the full flow doesn't filter until the oil thins enough to flow through the element.. it takes the "by pass" route...
They will get almost all the fine stuff out of the oil.... The entire volume of oil in the engine can pass through the engine up to 7 times per minute when it's hot... amazing... even if only 1/7 th of that passes through the filter - the entire contents will be filtered every minute.... it won't, in reality - but this is the ability of having a filter in use.....
The paper element filter is only capable of filtering through a perhaps 1/16th thick wall of extremely fine perforated wall paper....
The Frantz "toilet roll" filter uses the entire length for filtering... all 4 1/2 inches off it... through the sheets from end to end.
Every time I do one of these filter changes, anything it stops it retained at the end of the toilet roll (top)... every now and then, I see tiny metal flecks in the light.... one or two at most ever... most times none... these are probably my big end bearings wearing... and, instead of those flecks going through the engine 7 times every minute.. the filter traps them and prevents premature wear...
I do oil changes every 3,000 miles...
When I had the grey motor in it (one of two before the red) - I was doing oil changes every 1,000 miles.. before the Frantz went in, and out to 3,000 miles afterwards... the filter paid for itself in just a year or so. in the saving of oil..
Ok, I've dribbled on way too much .... again....
frats,
Rosco
When doing the oil change - change the filter as well.
You'll need to know how much oil the filter holds... don't fall for the trap of measuring the amount of oil which comes out when you drain the oil from the crankcase and the oil filter.... we don't know the volume of the oil filter... or how much "was" in the crankcase.
If you can measure the amount of oil in the filter... just add that volume to the 6 pints needed in the crankcase...
Then, as previously suggested -start the motor up and let it warm up... feel the oil filter body and it should get hot......
Stop the engine, and only allow a minute for the oil to settle in the crankcase this time... or, you risk oil from the filter "back draining" down into the crankcase and giving you a higher than "in running" level in the crankcase....
Then, as previously suggested - adjust your dipstick so that the "full" mark sits where the level of the oil is....
Don't leave it more than a minute after stopping the engine - or you'll run the risk of running the engine low on oil....
My guess is that the filter will hold at least one pint... if not two....
Perhaps, the clever engineers we had back in the day made use of being able to purchase a gallon of oil.... and the two pints would be used to fill the oil filter... I don't know, only guessing..
There are others in here who will know the volume of the oil filter - I don't.
I do know my Frantz filter holds exactly two pints... (it's a "toilet roll" filter - don't ever be tempted to use an ordinary toilet roll in one of these - you'l stuff the engine.. if anyone is using one, or is about to - they are a special filter which "looks" like a toilet roll).
Yours' will just be a paper element, I suspect... convoluted paper... exactly the same as what is inside a spin on filter.
Don't be fooled either - when the oil is cold - it doesn't go through the filter... it goes via the "by-pass" valve.... until it warms up and thins up enough to feed through the paper...
Your's will be a "by pass" filter arrangement... not a "full flow".... spin on type...
They all work fine.... even the full flow doesn't filter until the oil thins enough to flow through the element.. it takes the "by pass" route...
They will get almost all the fine stuff out of the oil.... The entire volume of oil in the engine can pass through the engine up to 7 times per minute when it's hot... amazing... even if only 1/7 th of that passes through the filter - the entire contents will be filtered every minute.... it won't, in reality - but this is the ability of having a filter in use.....
The paper element filter is only capable of filtering through a perhaps 1/16th thick wall of extremely fine perforated wall paper....
The Frantz "toilet roll" filter uses the entire length for filtering... all 4 1/2 inches off it... through the sheets from end to end.
Every time I do one of these filter changes, anything it stops it retained at the end of the toilet roll (top)... every now and then, I see tiny metal flecks in the light.... one or two at most ever... most times none... these are probably my big end bearings wearing... and, instead of those flecks going through the engine 7 times every minute.. the filter traps them and prevents premature wear...
I do oil changes every 3,000 miles...
When I had the grey motor in it (one of two before the red) - I was doing oil changes every 1,000 miles.. before the Frantz went in, and out to 3,000 miles afterwards... the filter paid for itself in just a year or so. in the saving of oil..
Ok, I've dribbled on way too much .... again....
frats,
Rosco
Re: Dipstick
All very valuable advice thanks Rosco
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Re: Dipstick
Your correct in that I have a bypass filter with paper element 
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Re: Dipstick
That's great having put the pix up, FJW.... someone will now know the volume of your oil filter for you...
Just add that to the 6 pints - and mark/adjust as previously suggested...
frats,
Rosco
Just add that to the 6 pints - and mark/adjust as previously suggested...
frats,
Rosco
Re: Dipstick
You might also like to add an additional 1/2 cup of oil for the oil feed line to the filter... it will take a bit out of the crankcase volume when the engine is running too....
From memory, in a grey - the oil lines to and from the filter are inserted into manufactured threaded holes in the side of the cast iron block... for and aft... I think each side of where the side plate breather is positioned by it's retainer...
Or, the rear one is connected up by the use of a "T" adapter to where the oil pressure sending unit is... and the front one is connected to the other hole mentioned by simply removing a blank screw from the hole....
I remember having two of these T adapters fitted when I fitted the Frantz to my greys.... one for the sender light unit, one for the Frantz filter and one for the Smiths oil pressure gauge I had at the time... there is a restrictor hole in the line to the oil filter.. that way, it keeps pressure up, but allows the oil to pass through easily to the filter element... this is all from memory - 37 years back... hope I'm not giving you false info, FJW...
frats,
Rosco
From memory, in a grey - the oil lines to and from the filter are inserted into manufactured threaded holes in the side of the cast iron block... for and aft... I think each side of where the side plate breather is positioned by it's retainer...
Or, the rear one is connected up by the use of a "T" adapter to where the oil pressure sending unit is... and the front one is connected to the other hole mentioned by simply removing a blank screw from the hole....
I remember having two of these T adapters fitted when I fitted the Frantz to my greys.... one for the sender light unit, one for the Frantz filter and one for the Smiths oil pressure gauge I had at the time... there is a restrictor hole in the line to the oil filter.. that way, it keeps pressure up, but allows the oil to pass through easily to the filter element... this is all from memory - 37 years back... hope I'm not giving you false info, FJW...
frats,
Rosco
Re: Dipstick
It would not be the first time I was called a dipstick 
.
Early grey motors (FX-EK) had the short dipstick (8.5" long, part number 7410305) with no tube.
EJ grey motors had the longer dipstick (1' 1.5", part number 7415679) with a tube (5", part number 7415681).
Dimensions above are the same way you would measure a bolt or screw (i.e. the length under the dipstick head). Both grey motor dipsticks have identical markings on the end.
You can use an FX-EK dipstick in an EJ block (and vice versa) as long as you use a tube on the EJ one, and no tube on the FX-EK one.
Cheers,
Harv
.Early grey motors (FX-EK) had the short dipstick (8.5" long, part number 7410305) with no tube.
EJ grey motors had the longer dipstick (1' 1.5", part number 7415679) with a tube (5", part number 7415681).
Dimensions above are the same way you would measure a bolt or screw (i.e. the length under the dipstick head). Both grey motor dipsticks have identical markings on the end.
You can use an FX-EK dipstick in an EJ block (and vice versa) as long as you use a tube on the EJ one, and no tube on the FX-EK one.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Dipstick
Cheers Harv - Ill see if i can see a pt number
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Re: Dipstick
In this case they all stick out the same amount wally