Thanks Neil, he ran OK too. I will have to revisit my bonnet hinge - it's sitting up noticeably+ in one of those pics.
The FC has a thumping big Chev V8 with some sort of sniper type setup and filling up the front on CRS front end and chassis kit. It is trimmed beautifully inside too. Turns out it lives about 400m away! It's scary how many amazing cars are hiding in plain sight here.
Some work to do on the brakes- just bleeding front discs I hope.
Also, after much thought I've decided to replace the CD150s with a Holley. Just can't suck enough air through them for my needs. I recall my EH and GTR both ran 2" SUs and I think the 11/2 Strombergs just cant give me the cfms I need to burn rubber()
Many thanks Harv. 350 arrived today so very timely post.
I know Greg is absolutely right and I will give it some serious thought if I can flog off the CD setup and cross over without too much dosh. I also, am a fan of hungry intakes, complicated linkages and fuel lines like tenticles. In the meantime the 350 should do the trick without the need for a second fuel tank. Shame about my neat little firewall pocket.
As Sam (Tinleg) put it so succinctly last night - I am never satisfied....
Errol62 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 17, 2024 10:48 pm
The CD150s are pretty thirsty I take it. Webers would be more so. I’m interested to see how the 350 goes.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
I don't think the economy is bad. EGR is about 12.5% at idle and around 13% on the run. It's not my area of expertise but I think that's about right. The problem I have is that I am not getting the acceleration I expect. I've tried with and without oil in the dampers, different jets and all sorts of timing curve mods and it just doesn't do it for me. Swapping back to the WW and it definitely is quicker off the mark. I have as set of 202 LJ XU1 CD175s and Holden manifold but they will require a fair bit of work.
My daily drive is a Tesla these days which does raise my expectations about acceleration!
Any advice on fuel line connection to 350? It came with a bigger flared straight tube that heads straight to the cylinder head. I need a 45degree bend and smaller diameter tubing to match up with original fuel line. Other than that I think it's sorted.
I'd re-run the fuel line from the pump to the carb in larger line, and use a different adaptor (1/8-NPT to 3/8 inverted flare) at the pump.
An easier way out is to get a banjo fitting that runs to a nipple (Holley part number 26-25). Point the nipple down 45 degrees. Slide the flare nut back slightly on the original fuel line, and bend it out of the way a little. Run a 3" length of rubber tube between the original fuel line and the banjo nipple, relying on the original fuel line flared end to act as a barb.
I'm not a fan of the easier way out as rubber or braided hoses for fuel lines are a pet hate.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Thanks Harv. Will that banjo fitting just seal up against the carb body ( and not use the flared fitting inside)?
I was wondering about the fuel line size, but figured it all flows through the needle and seat so probably not a problem with the original line size. Hopefuly it's not sooo thirsty that I need so much more fuel than before.
Great, thanks for that info Harv.
I was thinking last night that I might silver solder a made up original diameter fuel line onto the supplied fitting as it slides neatly inside - just need to adjust the bends a bit. I'm keen to crank it up and test today and I've got new fuel pipe left over from the resto. The pity of it all is that I have to lose my filter/ pressure regulator and guage.
)
