Just curious but what is the general consensus as the best way forward for a warm grey in the bottom end once you've done new bearing and balanced crank etc.
Is there a benefit in the lightened condos that are going around? I see crank girdle may be overkill but would you go for billet bridges to replace the cast ones?
I'm having a new head put on the ute at the minute with some posing work etc but the bottom end is stock apart from the balancing and bearings when it was re-built.
Sonic Injection
Re: Sonic Injection
You will find me lost somewhere!
Re: Sonic Injection
For a warm grey (not a thrashed one):
Standard rods are fine.
Bearing bridges only if you are going to wind the thing above 6300rpm routinely.
Drill dizzy oil hole for pre-EK (and some EK) blocks.
Replace rear main with third-party rope seal.
Drill crank end for harmonic puller.
Cheers,
Harv
Standard rods are fine.
Bearing bridges only if you are going to wind the thing above 6300rpm routinely.
Drill dizzy oil hole for pre-EK (and some EK) blocks.
Replace rear main with third-party rope seal.
Drill crank end for harmonic puller.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
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Re: Sonic Injection
That sounds like the plan I am putting together at the moment, with my own bearing bridges.Harv wrote: ↑Mon Sep 13, 2021 9:35 am For a warm grey (not a thrashed one):
Standard rods are fine.
Bearing bridges only if you are going to wind the thing above 6300rpm routinely.
Drill dizzy oil hole for pre-EK (and some EK) blocks.
Replace rear main with third-party rope seal.
Drill crank end for harmonic puller.
Cheers,
Harv
I’ll be hitting the machines to make some
Drew
Re: Sonic Injection
after seeing your bearing puller I guess that will be a walk in the park for youFbSTDwagon wrote: ↑Mon Sep 13, 2021 5:43 pm
That sounds like the plan I am putting together at the moment, with my own bearing bridges.
I’ll be hitting the machines to make some
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Sonic Injection
Peter Grant who runs the other grey HAMB dragster in the class does not run any bearing bridges or girdles in his bottom end and he gives that thing a hiding. Yeah he’s snapped the odd crank here and there but you would not be driving a mild street car the way he drives that thing.
I had some bearing bridges in the engine In my hambster but that engine was from a salt racer that would be held wide open for extended periods of time. Once again not something you’d be doing in a mild street car.
When the time comes to freshen the donk in my wagon I’ll be pretty much following the recipe Harv has mentioned above.
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I had some bearing bridges in the engine In my hambster but that engine was from a salt racer that would be held wide open for extended periods of time. Once again not something you’d be doing in a mild street car.
When the time comes to freshen the donk in my wagon I’ll be pretty much following the recipe Harv has mentioned above.
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Re: Sonic Injection
The dynomotive guys are tipping 125hp after the head work - I wouldn’t have thought you could get that much with headwork alone but happy to be proven wrongHarv wrote:For a warm grey (not a thrashed one):
Standard rods are fine.
Bearing bridges only if you are going to wind the thing above 6300rpm routinely.
Drill dizzy oil hole for pre-EK (and some EK) blocks.
Replace rear main with third-party rope seal.
Drill crank end for harmonic puller.
Cheers,
Harv
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You will find me lost somewhere!
Re: Sonic Injection
That's nearly 1 hp per cubic inch. B )
FB ute driver, EK van project
FB ute driver, EK van project
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie