Compressor for spraying

[Errol62]

Hi All
After advice on a compressor for painting the van. What cfm is needed? I have heard 8 or 12 cfm but none o have seen advertised approach this.

Supercheap have a two day sale on with a Stanley 2.5 hp 190 lpm (about 7 cfm) for $479. 50 litre tank.

Any advice appreciated. I have bugger all spray painting knowledge. I have a small compressor with about a 25 litre tank which struggles to do any more than blow up tyres.

Cheers
Clay

[Blacky]

7 cfm will be too small for painting a car - you want 12 minimum.

[Errol62]

Thanks Blacky. I'll keep saving by the looks.

[EK283]

Errol62,

Blacky is right 12cfm minimum.

I had a 15cfm for years used it with a with a sandblaster, spray painting etc but it finally died and I had to upgrade.

Because I wanted to paint with 2 pack I bit the bullet and bought a 42 cfm unit that supplies breathing air as well as run the spray gun.

Its the best thing I have ever done. Of course its up to you and I don't know what type of paint you are using but for me safety is paramount because the isocyanates in 2 pack can be deadly.

I call my compressor the grunter !

Regards Greg

[Errol62]

Thanks Greg

She's a monster!

As I said I'm a novice at painting. Have used my baby to spray a few surfboards with clear acrylic and always dry and powdery off the gun but rubs up ok. Not enough thinners and too far from the surface I think.

I'm thinking I will do prime and fill, mechanicals, under side, floor etc and get the panels finished professionally. Is this realistic? Or by the time I've done the rest may I as well finish it off?

It sounds like I would need to spend over $1k to get an adequate unit.

Cheers
Clay

[EK283]

Clay,

Unfortunately for me this car building stuff is addictive similar to a gambler, just can't get enough of it !

The problem is the more stuff you achieve with the restoration the more you want to do yourself, I also have had bad experiences with the so called pros who stuff everything and expect you to pay for the damage so I just do it myself.

Any way think about the type of paint, will you be doing more in the future, and what other units you can run off the compressed air, things like die grinders sanders etc.

Hopefully that will steer you the right way but take it from me if a salesperson says shell be right just go bigger ha ha ha.


Regards Greg

[pauly]

Like others have said above 12cfm at a minimum, 17cfm is a good size and not much dearer than the 12, just keep in mind that quite a few 17cfm comps require 15 amp power whereas the 12's use the normal 10 amp.
No big deal i know but it has caught people out before.

[Errol62]

Thanks guys. On the lookout for a 10 amp 17cfm unit.

[Rusty EK]

G'day Greg

Out of interest how does the compressor supply the breathing air ? , does it have a dedicated filter for the breathing air ?

Cheers Chris

[bootlegger]

Yep you need a different regulator that converts the air to breathable. Also the you need a different air line which is rated for breathable air. I still wonder how good the air actually is?

[pauly]

Yep i have wondered that myself. After blasting and painting for the last 16 years it hasnt hurt me, yet. I also run a water filtered unit after the first martian unit.

[EK283]

Hey guys,

Yes indeed you need a separate filter/filters for breathing. I have a water trap then a martech 4 filter inline and dedicated to my breathing mask. The filters take out water, oil, carbon monoxide, and fumes and apparently give you good quality air to the positive pressure face shield. Unfortunately I have asthma and I cant take any chances whatsoever, I really get pissed off because everything a car represents it just bad for me, fumes, fuel, tyre smoke, welding sanding etc etc. I try to stay one step ahead and just use masks all day long, so far so good.

The bottom regulator goes to a toilet paper filter on the right to collect all moisture before the spray gun and works a treat.
The top is the dedicated breathing line this to works very well and the air tastes better than the air outside


The mask pressurises and there is no way any isocyanates can get in as its positive pressure.

The only issue is you must keep the compressor isolated from the spray mist as this can suck the fumes in and straight down your lungs. The breathing filter manufactures don't guarantee it stops everything so I don't chance it.

Regards Greg

[bootlegger]

The only problem I have with the mask I have is the top of my head gets really cold.

[Rusty EK]

Thanks for the extra info Greg , nice setup too .

[Errol62]

Thanks again for your advice. As I said I'm new to painting. I've started repairing my hanging panels with the mig, keeping the heat down, small spots etc. lots of grinding. What is recommended for protecting the bare metal after grinding and prior to finishing? It may be some time before I get on to final prep and paint. Is welding etch the same as etch primer? Does final paint choice dictate initial prep?