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Here is some tips on removing Moulds for those about to attempt it for the first time. Or messed it up the first time like I did back in the eighties


Strips - Need a lot of time and muscle.

Back quarter top small mould - Tip of top strip has a nut underneath (towards the wing). Sometime a second nut, three push on clips along towards the back door. Inside door rubber "grub screw" where the strip tab tucks into door jam. The other clips along the top are press on. I leaver the strip off these clips with a brake adjusting tool. I wiggles the strip up on one side so the clip doesn't brake. I also spray some WD40 as I go, so it help the strip slide over the clip. There are three of these small clips per side.

Lower Back wide Mould. One nut towards the inner taillight. Inside door rubber grub screw, where the strip tab tucks into door jam. The other clips along the top are press on. These "W" clips break easy. Once again .... WD40, wiggle the leaver to take the strip off the top side while pushing the strip up from the bottom. It will slowly spring out (Hopefully without braking).


Back door top - One inside screw "inside the door" way up under the inside of the door where it meets the glass. (Tuff screw to get out) Access with door trim removed only. Another screw that is on the other end of the mould that is exposed with the door open at the door jam end. The other four are door trim style press in clips. (These leaver out and can be tough if the clip has been filled with putty in the factory, to stop them from the squeezing in).

Lower Back door Mould. Two screws either end of strip exposed when door is open. Four rear quarter style "W" press on clips. (wiggle as per above lower rear quarter with WD40)


Front door mould Top - One screw exposed when door is open (towards door lock end) A 3/8 Nut is hidden under a press on cap that pops out with a little leverage. This cap is towards to front hinges. This nut holds the arrow head joiner in the ark of the budgie wing. The other four are door trim style press in clips. (These leaver out and can be tough if the clip has been filled with putty in the factory to stop it from the squeezing in).

Lower front door mould - There are three very large spring clips that hold the wider part of the lower mould. These need to be closed together slightly from the inside of the door for extraction.(Door trim need removing for access) Sometimes like the top door strip press in clips, they are filled with putty and this neads to be picked out to depress the clip with pliers.


Rule No-1 Like a first impression - you only get one chance on some of these screw heads. Make sure you give them a good soaking first. I usually leave them a week before attempting to remove them.

The pressure on any of these screw head are so important. I tap the scewdriver into the scew a few times with a hammer to help unfreeze. Make sure you have the right screwdriver - snug fit. Keeping extreme pressure on the conection, I use locking pliers or a shifter on the screwdriver handle to help with leverage. If you gar the screw head, then is drill or chisel.

If you have any question please post them or call.

Thanks,

Steve

"W" Clip

Thanks Steve I printed that for later..(Sticky Someone)

So how come you use WD40 instead of Penetrene?

http://qsmart.net.au/Penetrene1.htm

See ya tonight bud!

Cheers

Thanks Steve,

Can I ask for your advice please?

Do you have any tips for getting that big triangle shaped mould off that sits between rear door window and the back window on the FBs? I'd like to get these re-plated when I send Plastic's bumpers and tail lights off for re-chroming.

I'm crossing my fingers that the headlining doesn't have to come off to access nuts / screws on the inside, but somehow I don't think I'm going to be that lucky

Also, what have you found to be the safest way of removing the door cards? I want to take them off to see inside the bottom the doors and find out if there are any skeletons lurking in there

The door cards are still immaculate on Plastic (even without the plastic) and I definitely don't want to butcher them.

WayneXG95 wrote:Thanks Steve I printed that for later..(Sticky Someone)

So how come you use WD40 instead of Penetrene?

http://qsmart.net.au/Penetrene1.htm

See ya tonight bud!

Cheers

We use Penetrene when we are soaking the clips, screws and wheels silinders etc, though, I am not sure what it may do to the old original paint finishes. So I know from experience WD40 is fine.

Steve

the cover on the rear pillar is relativly easy, where it tucks around the pillar where the rubber is there is three screws undo them and it kinda folds off from where you just undid the screws, simple as that BUT be carefull of the rubber when undoing the screws and paint etc when lifting off

MeFB wrote:Thanks Steve,

Can I ask for your advice please?

Do you have any tips for getting that big triangle shaped mould off that sits between rear door window and the back window on the FBs? I'd like to get these re-plated when I send Plastic's bumpers and tail lights off for re-chroming.

I'm crossing my fingers that the headlining doesn't have to come off to access nuts / screws on the inside, but somehow I don't think I'm going to be that lucky

Also, what have you found to be the safest way of removing the door cards? I want to take them off to see inside the bottom the doors and find out if there are any skeletons lurking in there

The door cards are still immaculate on Plastic (even without the plastic) and I definitely don't want to butcher them.

Hi Alan, the chrome Triangles have three screws hiding under the rubber inside the door jam, once removed, you just leaver them off.

You need a good door trim remover and hope the horseshoe clips have been placed back in the right direction (if the trims came off to remove the plastic). The opening of the horseshoe clip faces the handgrip of the handle. You pul the handle out a bit to expose the metal spacer between the door-handle with a blade / then a screwdriver, then slide your door trim remover in under the handle stork end and push the clip out.

The door trim remover is also handy to help remove the door trim. I always start at the top with the chrome lip support on the top of the door trim. Once that is pried out, I take a big long wide screwdriver and tilt the door trim a little open and lever the clips out of the door holes, rather than placing pressure on the cards.

Steve

Awesome, thanks.

Seems I was lucky about not having to remove the headlining to get the rear pillar covers off after all

I've taken the window-winders and handles off in the past using padded screwdrivers liberally lubricated with sweat and swear-words. I'll think I'll do the job right and invest in one of the trim-removers this time

Sticky made

Trev wrote:Sticky made

Thanks Trev, I will put up some pics of the clips needed and where you can get them

Thanks Tim. I did suss that when I had a closer look. There was a section where it looked like chrome flaking off at first glance, then I saw that it was just crud and it wiped right off. They are now polished and shining brightly

Sam Crupi is the best !!! .... He makes the "W" clips

The Last clip on the rear quarter towards the tail light is this one.











I will post up the two outer rear door clips next time I am out at the shed.

Steve

Great article Steve ....Thank you ........could you please give me a number on Steve Crupi and how many of these clips are required for the whole job ...Thanks again Steve .......Fingers

Sam Crupi of Shepparton, VIC 03 5822 1379 (Member of Vic Club)

Stewart