WRAY T96 SUPERCHARGER refurb and install

[Errol62]

I t may get down to how you solve the radiator clearance issue as you are no doubt aware. So long as done in a period fashion then you’re good in my mind at least.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[FJWALLY]

I t may get down to how you solve the radiator clearance issue as you are no doubt aware. So long as done in a period fashion then you’re good in my mind at least.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I have had the rad top support modified - so next job is to strip rad out and fit it up - trim bottom baffle and work out if all will work


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[Harv]

With many 4WD and SUV vehicles now starting to find the scrap heap, and not before long will be those fitted to small passenger cars - I am surprised that someone has not decided to fit a small turbo-diesel yet...

I know it's not my car, and I love quirky, and I know diesels are torquey, and can run damn hard...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky0GGrcvxYY

... but it just aint right thinking of an old Holden chugging along like a D9 Cat. The Gemini oil-burners were bad enough.

Cheers,
Harv

[FJWALLY]

Lol - diesels are great - emissions controls are not great - I love my 200 series Landcruiser twin turbo V8 but there's no way thats fitting in an EK
Given the choice though for fun I always pick the V6 FJ - just so much more fun to drive - one day I'm going to put a whipple on it and then hold onto your hats - 3 inch lift and 35 inch tyres that thing is so much fun in the sand dunes.

I need to get some play do to check clearances above the rad cap just to double check I have enough room to move forward 20-25mm and up 10mm Then I'm into it.

With many 4WD and SUV vehicles now starting to find the scrap heap, and not before long will be those fitted to small passenger cars - I am surprised that someone has not decided to fit a small turbo-diesel yet...

I know it's not my car, and I love quirky, and I know diesels are torquey, and can run damn hard...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky0GGrcvxYY

... but it just aint right thinking of an old Holden chugging along like a D9 Cat. The Gemini oil-burners were bad enough.

Cheers,
Harv

[rosco]

I know it's not my car, and I love quirky, and I know diesels are torquey, and can run damn hard...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky0GGrcvxYY

... but it just aint right thinking of an old Holden chugging along like a D9 Cat. The Gemini oil-burners were bad enough.

The modern turbo diesel is a long evolution from the little knocker Gemini.... it was about economy back then - and they excelled, from memory - I recall spruking by some owners of nearly 50 mpg... or more.

Until I see and hear a modern conversion Harv - at the expense of someone else who has belief in this transplant... I'll agree to disagree with you...

frats,
Rosco

[FJWALLY]

Not a lot happening recently - put some colour on the blower and just need clean up the fins now - had rad support chopped ready for test fit and Fred almost done on the manifold.
Life pretty much on hold at the moment as wife busted her ankle so Im working from home and doing the home duties as well - a touch tired


You’ll find me lost somewhere!

[rosco]

All looks pretty darned good to me, FJW....

I did exactly the same thing with my first attempt to modify the upper radiator baffle support... all went well until I welded in backing plate.... even blocked it down and sprayed it to the required plate finish - all to no avail... it didn't fit.
The welding had expanded the overall length of the member.... just a day before a wedding.
The father of the bride came up with a replacement for me.... never in his wildest dreams did he ever think he'd have to add me to his list of "tasks"... but he did, and both of our cars made his daughter's wedding...

The second attempt went a lot better - I didn't cut as much out of the second one and stitch welded the plate into the rear of it.... then just progressively joined the gaps... and ground it down.

Whilst I had the second one open, I welded in a plate inside the upper centre... and fitted a nut to it. This nut provides a fitting for an alarm sensor, a small plate mounted on the hood latch plate depresses the sensor - happy to provide info if needed (PM only, please).
If you do this, I might suggest leaving a small hole for wiring to pass through with connectors to allow for future removal of the member.
You can also run your horn wiring through the member as well - if you want to clean up the engine bay a bit more. I'm an advocate for "XT-60" connectors.... polarity fool proof and rated to 60A.... we use them in r/c aeromodelling, they are our "preferred" connector - rarely ever have one cause issues. Mongrel of a thing to solder leads to, but after 40 or 50 of them, you get the feel for it.... cheap as chips through on-line ordering.... or, if you are near Moruya NSW.. you can call into one of the outlets (Hobby King)- https://hobbyking.com/en_us/nylon-xt60- ... tore=en_us

I have a "spare" upper cross-member (the original, but now modified) which I don't intend to part with - to be re-visited when I get time... I have a further couple of additions I'll add to it if/when time becomes available - more pressing things to do well before that.

In reference to your wife's misfortune, I wish you both a speedy and full recovery.. I'm guessing you "don't get out much?".

frats,
Rosco

[FJWALLY]

Cheers Rosco - interesting comment on the welding making the overall length longer - I'll double check against the origin when I pull it out - couldn't be much surely?

Yeah not getting out much at the moment but these things pass - probably a good time to be housebound with all the other BS going on

Did you use the original radiator or fit a larger one?

I'm hoping that I can cut the baffle on the bottom stone plate and lift the rad up 10mm so it can come up and forward - then just cut and re-position the tabs on the radiator to line up to the original holes in k-frame baffle.

[Errol62]

Looking good Rob. Sorry for the missus ankle.

That mani is a nice piece of work. Any need or intent to compensate mixture variation front to back? I understand the need to run the churn forward for pulley alignment.

Harv put us on to a handy tool for expanding the guards slightly when fitting the bonnet and grille bars. Just a length of continuously threaded 5/8” rod, nuts, washers and 2 drilled hardwood 300mm bearer sections. Probably you’re on to it.
Cheers
Clay


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[rosco]

No - after many years, I finally found that a HK/T/G radiator would fit..... it does it easily between the longitudinal sub-frame members.
I didn't have to cut the lower baffle stone shield... but I did some "adjusting" with two large hammers and moved it slightly forward to clear the lower tank of the radiator - I can take some pix and post them if you need references.... the old bus is now open to the road for the first time in 4 years... the caravan is now stored out in the back yard.....

I cut each side of the baffle away to expose the wider radiator - this removed the original mount holes.
Further, I cut some small triangular pieces and welded them into the now exposed strengthening ribs... all this makes it look like it came out of the factory... the only issue is the "hump" in the middle of the member... clearly reveals that it was made for the original narrower radiator.
If anyone got serious (it was my intention) they could cut the centre of the cross-member and also cut both sides before the end mounts.... fit an insertion piece from the offcuts and weld it all back together... this would align the hump with the wider radiator.. but you'd then run into issues with the rubber flaps under the bonnet...

This replacement radiator, and the fitting of an EH radiator fan fixed all of my over-heating issues.... even when towing, I don't believe I've seen the temp go over 200 F.... even going up a long hill on almost full power... and, it cools down really quickly once the load it taken away.
You'd never convince me to fit another electric fan to this vehicle again... I have a "spare" Davies Craig fan for anyone who wants it... it won't go into this old bus again. Good concept, but I firmly believe these old motors like to run with a belt driven fan and the thermostat simply allows "cool" water resident in the bottom of the radiator to enter the block..... as opposed the entire cooling system reaching a temperature before the electro thermostat says it's time to start cooling the radiator.... that's how I remember the system working.

In running, the temp hovers around the 170 - 175 mark all day.... cold winter's day with the heater on, it might sit on 170.... or drop off if coming down a long mountain... but in summer, it simply doesn't get hot.... one thing the General got right, was the belt driven fan and a radiator capable of keeping the motor cool.... if they are maintained and coolant is changed on a regular basis.

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Looking good Rob. Sorry for the missus ankle.

That mani is a nice piece of work. Any need or intent to compensate mixture variation front to back? I understand the need to run the churn forward for pulley alignment.

Harv put us on to a handy tool for expanding the guards slightly when fitting the bonnet and grille bars. Just a length of continuously threaded 5/8” rod, nuts, washers and 2 drilled hardwood 300mm bearer sections. Probably you’re on to it.
Cheers
Clay


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yes, Clay - did the exact same thing with mine..... don't know why, but the inside of both guards fall in love with each other when that crossmember is removed.

I made my expanders up from a length of broomstick... drilled it out to take the threaded rod. then used a pair of nuts and some washers on each of the threaded rods to expand the rod out from the broomstick..... with rubber pads at the other end of the rod over a nut on each end to protect the guards. I made up two of these assemblies.... they make it an awful lot easier to get the crossmember in without damaging paint etc on the guards.

Forgot to mention, FJW - I believe the length of the original crossmember extended when I welded it back together.. my belief now is that the angle of the hump changed - and probably both vertically and horizontally - this resulted in the overall length of it increasing... there was no way it was going to go in... it wouldn't even get close to coming down from the top of both guards - let alone getting anywhere near inside them...... work slowly, keep trial fitting it if you intend to weld a plate up in the rear of it (highly recommended).

frats,
Rosco

[FJWALLY]

Cheers Clay - she was very unlucky - resting up and hopefully Friday when we get stitches out we get some positive news that she can hobble bout on it at least will give he a bit more freedom - On a plus note her not being able to get off the couch means she cant catch me and walk me around the head when I do something she doesn't like - ben sneaking in some cupboard clean outs while I can - LOL

I'm assuming the mix is basically vaporised and pressure takes care of the flow but will check with Fred and come back to you - Harv might have more of an idea.

There are many holes in it which are preplanned things - the one on top at rear is for a pressure gauge - top middle is a blow off valve as seen fitted in one of the pics - the three on the block side are just bolts hole anti crush tubes so it can be torqued up nice and snug.

Had not thought of the expansion of guards but probably very wise to preserve paint etc - if you find a pic pls through it up so Ic an copy if you dont mind.

I was going to leave the bottom support and grill in place with weight off the tyres on hoist to get the top out and do the test fit that way to start - confirm some measurements before I go any further - then get the top support fully finished and painted before taking the rest out but it may not work that way perhaps.

Looking good Rob. Sorry for the missus ankle.

That mani is a nice piece of work. Any need or intent to compensate mixture variation front to back? I understand the need to run the churn forward for pulley alignment.

Harv put us on to a handy tool for expanding the guards slightly when fitting the bonnet and grille bars. Just a length of continuously threaded 5/8” rod, nuts, washers and 2 drilled hardwood 300mm bearer sections. Probably you’re on to it.
Cheers
Clay


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[FJWALLY]

Pics are always helpful Rosco - especially the bottom sections - Ive had my radiator re-done with a triple cores so it already has a bit more volume so hoping I dont have any overheating issues once using a good quality coolant and the original fan - fingers crossed my measurements are correct and it fits without modification.

The intent is to make as few mods as possible and really only be visible to those that know.

No - after many years, I finally found that a HK/T/G radiator would fit..... it does it easily between the longitudinal sub-frame members.
I didn't have to cut the lower baffle stone shield... but I did some "adjusting" with two large hammers and moved it slightly forward to clear the lower tank of the radiator - I can take some pix and post them if you need references.... the old bus is now open to the road for the first time in 4 years... the caravan is now stored out in the back yard.....

I cut each side of the baffle away to expose the wider radiator - this removed the original mount holes.
Further, I cut some small triangular pieces and welded them into the now exposed strengthening ribs... all this makes it look like it came out of the factory... the only issue is the "hump" in the middle of the member... clearly reveals that it was made for the original narrower radiator.
If anyone got serious (it was my intention) they could cut the centre of the cross-member and also cut both sides before the end mounts.... fit an insertion piece from the offcuts and weld it all back together... this would align the hump with the wider radiator.. but you'd then run into issues with the rubber flaps under the bonnet...

This replacement radiator, and the fitting of an EH radiator fan fixed all of my over-heating issues.... even when towing, I don't believe I've seen the temp go over 200 F.... even going up a long hill on almost full power... and, it cools down really quickly once the load it taken away.
You'd never convince me to fit another electric fan to this vehicle again... I have a "spare" Davies Craig fan for anyone who wants it... it won't go into this old bus again. Good concept, but I firmly believe these old motors like to run with a belt driven fan and the thermostat simply allows "cool" water resident in the bottom of the radiator to enter the block..... as opposed the entire cooling system reaching a temperature before the electro thermostat says it's time to start cooling the radiator.... that's how I remember the system working.

In running, the temp hovers around the 170 - 175 mark all day.... cold winter's day with the heater on, it might sit on 170.... or drop off if coming down a long mountain... but in summer, it simply doesn't get hot.... one thing the General got right, was the belt driven fan and a radiator capable of keeping the motor cool.... if they are maintained and coolant is changed on a regular basis.

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Forgot to mention, when I fitted the replacement cross-member - I also made up some very thin neoprene gaskets to fit between the member and the guards... sikaflex to the member and cut away the openings... it adds a little bit of insulation and protection... little things, but they all add up.
The skirts and guards will bend out quite a bit under compression of the expanders... fit the bolts before relieving them or the assembly will almost "lock" in place.... it will be hard to re-position the members once they are under compression.

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Pics are always helpful Rosco - especially the bottom sections

I'll slip out into the garage later FJW - anything in particular you want close-ups of?... I'll take some from both sides of the bottom of the baffle - you'll see where I "bent" the lower stone plate forward to provide clearance for the bottom radiator tank. I'll also take some close-ups of the little inserts I welded into the baffle sides... let me know if you want anything else - digital film is "cheap"...

frats,
Rosco