EK Ute returns

[In the Shed]

That'll get the ute moving along nicely..........

[Errol62]

Wow great scoreGazza


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Blacky]

Thats purty you need to move the coil or whatever that black box is to a more discreet location though Gaz

[Harv]

Thats a nice cam. Lumpy enough for the track, but still streetable. Should come on song between 2200rpm and 5700rpm.

Cheers,
Harv

[WesternWagon]

Picked up the motor yesterday
Just need to swap a few bits around front plate on FX to EK to get align the engine mount
Upgrade the gearbox from mechanical to hydraulic clutch not sure if I need to swap extension housing?
Swap cams and fit new timing gears
Internals are very clean












Tidy home made T and fuel line




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[ardiesse]

There'll be a few gotchas with the "EK" conversion of this motor and gearbox, because they are so early.

Firstly, you can get rid of the clutch countershaft bracket at the right rear of the block. You won't need it.

An EK front engine mount plate onto an FX motor isn't a bolt-in swap, unfortunately. Between FX and EK the front main bearing cap was revised: the oil drain holes were lowered, an extra mounting bolt was added (just on the right side of the crankshaft timing gear) and other timing cover attaching bolts were enlarged and the holes tapped in the front main bearing cap. A vent hole was also drilled in the front of the cylinder block behind the camshaft timing gear.

The best way of changing over to an EK front engine mount plate is also to change over to an EK front main bearing cap, but this requires checking the front main bearing clearance carefully with Plastigage when fitting the replacement front main bearing cap.

It's also best to change over to an EK timing cover (big "+" sign pressed into the front of the cover instead of a sort-of stylised "H"). Or you can identify the bolts which got enlarged and drill the FX timing cover bolt holes to suit.

Because you'll be pulling the camshaft out to change the front engine mount plate over anyway, it's a good idea to ditch the fibre timing gear for an alloy or steel one.

You won't be able to fit a clutch slave cylinder to the FX gearbox: the cast rib on the right hand side of the bellhousing interferes with the slave cylinder, and the "ears" for the driver's side engine mount bracket are not machined to take the slave cylinder either. The FX clutch cover is a "six-bolt" type with integral exhaust pipe bracket, and will interfere with EK rear engine mount brackets; you would need a "four-bolt" EK clutch cover. The gearshift levers on the gearbox are for FX-FJ, and are different from the EK ones. They would need changing over to EK. If this gearbox is original internally, it will have a single-row rear bearing. An EK gearbox has a double-row rear bearing, which lasts a lot longer.

All told: the best thing to do with the gearbox is to sell it complete to someone restoring an FX/FJ. The early gearbox cases are eagerly sought after by the Humpy fraternity. Use an EK gearbox complete instead.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but the little details like this can turn out to be major frustrations . . .

Rob

[WesternWagon]

Thanks Rob

Sent you a PM

I have a good usable gearbox in my ute, thanks for the advice I probably now sell the gearbox as it has just been rebuilt.

Was wondering if there was a difference between the FJ & B series front plates as I can see difference between the J & B series plates the J has additional holes

Cheers

Gazza


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[Harv]

Engine plate info here:
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... te#p237750

(with thanks to Rob for teaching me last time round )

Cheers,
Harv

[WesternWagon]

Thanks Harv

Great read

Regards

Gazza


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[WesternWagon]

Thanks for the chat Rob
Here are the 3 I have from a L B and J blocks
only slight difference is the bottom right hole on the FC block is smaller
Chasing an FE front plate

Timing covers



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[ardiesse]

Gazza,

Early FE front engine mount plates are fairly thin on the ground. The FC one you have is after the revision to the oil drain holes in the front main bearing cap. You can still use it, though, without modification to the front main bearing cap. And the early timing gear cover is the one that matches this front plate.

One trick that I've seen done on early motors with later front mount plates is to drill a third oil drain hole in the front main bearing cap, under the crank centreline, with the hole touching the flat of the new engine mount plate. But you'd have to take the sump off to clean the swarf out after drilling the hole.

Is the oil squirt hole pointing in the right direction? And it's a good idea to check that the threads in the captive nuts are OK before using the front mounting plate.

Rob

[WesternWagon]

Thanks Rob

Hope to get it all sorted next break

Regards

Gazza


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[WesternWagon]

Off for a haircut

“Define Streetable”

This should be fun




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[Harv]

Streetable: a camshaft with sufficient duration to make old blokes grin at the lumpy idle, and make millennials think the car has a fuel problem. Starts without ether but may require swearing on a cold morning. Marked unburnt fuel smell at idle (from increased overlap) will linger on clothes until washed. This may cause accusations of “you smell like old cars, Dad”. Overlap may cause occasional carburettor backfiring at idle, which may remove eyebrows if peering down the carb throat. Slightly sluggish below 2000rpm, but not sluggish enough to make the owner seek an 8000rpm Hydramatic torque converter. Acceptable justification for a Clive, McGee or Wade Cams window sticker. See also “stock cam”, “lumpy cam”, “3/4 race” and “pig to drive”.

Cheers,
Harv

[WesternWagon]

Streetable: a camshaft with sufficient duration to make old blokes grin at the lumpy idle, and make millennials think the car has a fuel problem. Starts without ether but may require swearing on a cold morning. Marked unburnt fuel smell at idle (from increased overlap) will linger on clothes until washed. This may cause accusations of “you smell like old cars, Dad”. Overlap may cause occasional carburettor backfiring at idle, which may remove eyebrows if peering down the carb throat. Slightly sluggish below 2000rpm, but not sluggish enough to make the owner seek an 8000rpm Hydramatic torque converter. Acceptable justification for a Clive, McGee or Wade Cams window sticker. See also “stock cam”, “lumpy cam”, “3/4 race” and “pig to drive”.

Cheers,
Harv

Ha ha that’s gold, sums it up nicely , my ute is like a two stroke atm, all noise and no guts but it sounds


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