WA fb special

[mph]

The bit that tells you what gear you are selecting. Trimatic is PRND21 whereas hydramatic is PDLNR from memory.

Just tek-screwed HQ -Z gate to the column and modified selector tab to fit the gate.

Ah yes the quadrant i have one from a ek ej/h and hd/r the hr one fits in the ek frame but ive since found new quadrants for ek with stickers so i can place them perfect for each gear.

I bought the hq column to use the gate but was told its totally different but it looks similar so im going to give it a crack

[Errol62]

That's it, quadrant. Binnacle wtf? Sounds nautical.

Just a matter of indexing the gate so shift indicator lines up. Now where's that auto column. Must have a half dozen floating around here.

[Errol62]

Found it
HJ gate

Modified tounge tab thingy


HJ neutral safety/reverse light switch


Auto honey pot


Manual. Note different pivot position.


X member bottom view with handbrake lever

Tunnel mods

Hole on the left takes HKTG speedo cable firewall grommet. They screw up to FE to HR speedo but are a bit short to come the usual route.

Sorry about the poor quality photos but hopefully this is helpful.

Cheers

Clay

[mph]

Those pics are exactly what im after Errol62 thanks for that.
With the kinga neutral safety switch was that a direct bolt on and works on the ek column.

That gate looks to fit perfectly ill try my hq gate so long as it has enough throw to change gears and lock correctly. Did you mod the selector that pokes out the ek column to fit in the kinga gate slots
That honey pot i was told is early ek as later ones had the same as the ej needle which is easier for adjustment.

[Errol62]

From memory switch was a direct bolt on although I seem to recall having one apart at some stage. May have been the original.

Used original mounting bolts at top and added tek screws at the lower or forward end of gate.

Yes filed down the selector to fit the HJ gate slots. Throw is good and locks perfectly.

For the linkages I modified lower hydramatic bar from memory by shortening, bending and re threading 3/8 UNC from memory.

Glad to be able to help.

Cheers

Clay

[Trev]

Going from my memory of switches the hq style had a hole where it attached to the selector, you need a slot. I used a hk one that had the trimatic of correct gear pattern and had a slot. I think I had to grind out one side of the two connecting slots so it would fit my column.

[mph]

i spent the day doing bits and pieces on the fb i couldnt find my hq gate. i bent the manual gear rod up to work with the auto column and trimatic and getting each gear,i modded the ek auto gate for now as per instructions from the Roger who makes quadrants etc and it locks in park but if your in n and hit the lever it can move into rev so when i pull the shed apart and find the hq gate ill make it work. Roger also sells gear lock outs to suit trimatic ek.

I buzzed all the nuts,bolts drum shoes etc up for pre assembly of the torana diff and come to a halt with the drum shoes or wheel cylinders .
The brake shop guy said the difference in the drum front drum rear to the disk from drum rear lc torry regaurding rear brakes is the disk front rear drums had smaller holes in the rear cylinders to alow more braking up front of the disks and larger holes in the rear cylinders of the drum front drum rear.

Seems there is two types of cylinders beside the inner hole size for fluid flow in that the ones in the pic or cylinders that have a little H like bits that poke out each end to slot over the drum brake part.


Then you get two types of drums i believe this with the two slot cut outs up the top and the other has just the lower cut out so i presume the cylinders with the H bar sticking out each side are for this type drum and the cylinder in the pic is to suit the other type drum with no slot cut out so the pistons can reach the drum.
Does any one know which combo are the ones to suit drum front drum rear.

[Errol62]

Drum front rears are pretty well identical to front drums. The difference is in the rear wheel cylinder bores which are much smaller and instead of cups with slotted pins to push on the shoes as per front have each cup and pin incorporated in one piece. As this forms a rigid connection the end that acts on the shoe does not need to be located on the shoe by slotting like the drum brake version. The shoe is a different shape where the pin bears on it to accommodate this.

Can post a photo this arvo if I remember.

Later models HQ on used the standard diameter wheel cylinders with a proportioning valve to lower the pressure to the rear, also incorporating a brake fail warning circuit. I believe there is also available after market adjustable proportioning valves so you can tune the front to rear balance.

Another alternative is to only boost the front circuit to the discs and run the drum front rears unboosted. Works well if using a dual circuit master cylinder unboosted on the firewall. Front circuit through vh44? remote booster. Rear straight to drum front rears.

Probably more information than you are looking for. Apologies for running off at the keyboard.

[mph]

Drum front rears are pretty well identical to front drums. The difference is in the rear wheel cylinder bores which are much smaller and instead of cups with slotted pins to push on the shoes as per front have each cup and pin incorporated in one piece. As this forms a rigid connection the end that acts on the shoe does not need to be located on the shoe by slotting like the drum brake version. The shoe is a different shape where the pin bears on it to accommodate this.

Can post a photo this arvo if I remember.

Later models HQ on used the standard diameter wheel cylinders with a proportioning valve to lower the pressure to the rear, also incorporating a brake fail warning circuit. I believe there is also available after market adjustable proportioning valves so you can tune the front to rear balance.

Another alternative is to only boost the front circuit to the discs and run the drum front rears unboosted. Works well if using a dual circuit master cylinder unboosted on the firewall. Front circuit through vh44? remote booster. Rear straight to drum front rears.



Probably more information than you are looking for. Apologies for running off at the keyboard.

Running off at the key board is perfect not just for me but others looking for information on sorting the same issues. Great information mate if you have some pics that would be great.
im running front std drums still i dont have the budget atm to spend 1k on getting and building up a hr disk front and my hr had drum front it pulled up straight and worked well so id like to get the fb like that for now.

so i went back to the brake shop and to keep drum cylinders on the back to suit drum front i need the cylinders that take the little push rods in them , the dont sell the little H like shaped push rods but he mentioned hk -hj rear drums use them so i need to find a kingswood diff to get those rods.
i dont really want to start messing around with the proportion valves it was pita enough trying to adjust my landcruiser one.

Does anyone have spare rods x4

[Errol62]

Should be interchangeable with any drum brake EJ to at least VK and torana excepting disc front rears of course.

[Blacky]

I have some stock diffs lying around

[mph]

I have some stock diffs lying around

Pm sent mate

[mph]

Had some time tonight to put the diff and brakes back together
Im still missing some wheel cylinder push rods can slot them in when i find some
She went together quite well after some homebrew longnecks


The three bottom bolts are they ment to have copper washers on them are they ment to be studs with nuts or all bolts? would any one know, the bolts in the torry housing were way to long for the center i put in


The C is from the torry diff and the W is from the fb diff but ive mixed up the little rods and not 100% on which is which i tried the longer one but the drums seems a little loose and the short one was a tight fit i presume it should be tight hence the spring tention c or w clip anyone have any they could measure.


torry hand brake to fb.
For the under floor hand brake pivot arm as the trimatic is now wider and longer than the oem box the arm and bracket needs to be moved more from the center over to the drivers side rather than moving out the pully hand brake wire wheels to match the bracket being moved im going to flip the pivot bracket over so the mount will be closer to the drivers sill panel and the wire to the pullys / firewall will stay in the same location.
The Fb hand brake cable being one piece im hoping as i relocate hand brake cable 180 bracket more to the the rhs of the car as the driver side of the hand brake cable gets shorter it will make up length on the lhs of the cable.




cheers

[Errol62]

Bottom is a bolt. Two either side are nuts. If replacing studs with longer for conversion to 3.08 or 2.78 ratio particularly using a long bolt, be sure and tack bolt head inside housing so you can get the nits nice and tight. Brass washers a must if you want to avoid weeping.


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[Errol62]

Re the hand brake I never bothered with moving the pulley wheel. Maybe just realigned by bending mount slightly. Rear cable length works out okay as you suggest but mock it up to be sure and position mount accordingly.

Should be a tight fit with the c clip and short pin I reckon.


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