My new project

[Jonty]

Thanks for the advice Clay and Rob - I think I'll give it a bash. I'll start with the front gaurd (after some scrap practice pieces) before I cut into the body shell!

Clay - I've got a Cigweld 185. I think it is up to the task, and I'll just need to swap the wire from 0.9 to 0.8. At least, I'm quite confident it is not going to be the limiting factor in the quality of my welds... Thanks for the offer to look at your roof cuts - I might get in touch when I'm confident enough to consider cutting the body shell.

Rob - I dont think the panel has been lead wiped, but then I'm not sure that I'd notice if it was. I think the steel is just that colour because I haven't cleaned it up properly yet. It's just been hit with a wire wheel in that picture to get the paint off and the bog out. I'm thinking I might get it dipped or blasted - there's a fair bit of surface rust on the inside too, and some difficult areas to get to with manual processes. It appears heavily pitted so I see a skim with filler and/or high build primer in my future. It makes me worry about the roof - it has more surface rust than the gaurds do (as you can see in the picture), so I hope it's not too badly pitted.

Cheers

[FireKraka]

Hi Jonty
Firstly welcome to the forum mate.
I agree with what the other guys have said and fixed my headlight eyebrows exactly as described.
If I may the other thing that I will add is don’t replace the lower section of your guards with them off the car I purchased Taylor’s repair sections they are good quality and Aussie made.
Cut the piece off the bottom (after you measure with the new one ) fit the guard back on nd then you will get the lower section in the right place.
Regards
Neil

[Jonty]

Thanks for the tip Neil - I had fully intended to weld it in with the panel off the car, so you might have saved me some heart break! I ordered the rust replacement panel from Rare Spares today. I thought $69 for a lower front guard section might have been a bit steep, but I can't make it myself so I guess that makes it a good price!

I pulled one of the front wheel cylinders off and started to strip it. The pistons are seized as I expected it would be and will need a soak in penetrating fluid and then some grease pressure to free them (accoridng to the internet). I was surprsied though to find the pistons are different at each end of the cylinder. One has a 'hole' 20mm in diameter, while the other is only 15mm diameter. I didn't pay too much attention, but I think the one to rear is the smaller one. Is this normal?

[Errol62]

The wheel cylinders are 1” on the rear and 1 7/16”?? On the front. More braking force to the front to avoid locking up rear brakes as weight of the car dives forward. Standard stuff, later cars may have a proportioning valve instead.

You will be best to get the cylinders resleeved if you intend sticking with stock brakes. You can drive the pistons out using a vice and drift if you’re careful. More care to get out bleed screw and tube nut cleanly. If you want to keep the tubing intact you can remove the rear wheel cylinders with it intact. Just undo at the brass union on the axle. I’ve just been through all this. Have a look at my thread Clay’s Wedgewood Blue FB Ute
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... are_type=t

Get your hands on a GMH workshop manual if you can. They come up on gumtree and at swapmeets, got one for about $60 recently.

Another welding tip is to make sure your surfaces are as clean as you can. You will have easier control and a better result. Keep the wire shroud clear of spatter so you get enough gas on the weld.

Beside using a heat sink as Ardiesse says, you learn to control how much heat you are putting in to the work by the angle of the feed wire to the surfaces you are joining. Welding vertically downward will help keep the heat down, ozek on here put me on to it. The weld turns out finer, good for sheet. Structural and thicker, right angle butt weld etc weld bottom to top for a stronger weld.

Good to see you’re getting stuck in to it
Cheers
Clay


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[FireKraka]

Hi Jonty
I haven't mucked around with drums for a long time but it appears that whay you are measuring there is where part of the mechanism sitss into the wheel cylinder the piston is the outer circle you can see.
Regards
Neil

[ardiesse]

Jonty,

The "smaller inner diameter" on the rear slave cylinder piston is accumulated crud. Grab a screwdriver and you can dig it out.

Rob

[Errol62]

Correction to my post above, fronts are 1 3/16”. Just dropped my resleeved but still leaking front driver wheel cylinder back to south Glenelg Brakes.


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[Jonty]

Thanks for the replies. I filled the smaller end with brake cleaner and it softened up over night - you were right on the money Rob!

[Jonty]

The strip is progressing slowly, but havent had any major dramas so far. I have pulled the old mats out and found some rust in the passenger floor near the a-pillar junction which will need cutting out. One surprise on pulling the mats u was that the transmission plate was missing - why would someone leave that off when putting the mat back in is beyond me. Luckily I found it in the parts pile so will reinstall it when putting everything back together.

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I also thought i'd see if I could start the motor before pulling it out. It hasnt run for 20 years. Following the guide on this forum I put some oil in the cylinders, drained the sump and replaced with fresh oil, removed the valve cover and distributor and tried to spin the oil pump with a drill. Used up the battery of my cordless before any oil appeared on the top of the motor. Does that mean my oil pump is knackered or am I doing something wrong

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[Jonty]

Got the motor out this weekend - relatively straight forward. It's now sitting on the floor of the shed while I source some longer bolts so I can get it on an engine stand.

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Clutch looks to have plenty of life left, but the fly wheel looks a bit grotty.

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Clutch slave cylinder looks to be finished...

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I gave one of the door cards a bit of a clean and it came up like new. Love the stars in the white vinyl.

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[Errol62]

Good progress Nathan. I’ve got a trans cover if you want it it’s yours.


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[Jonty]

So today I took what I thought was the thermostat housing off. Inside I expected to find a fair bit of rust around the thermostat. I was half right -should there be a thermostat in this hole?

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Also turns out my motor is out of an EJ according to my understanding of the engine number prefix. Shame it’s not the original.

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[Jonty]

Good progress Nathan. I’ve got a trans cover if you want it it’s yours.


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Thanks Clay - I found it in the pile of parts i've got so will reinstall it when I get to that stage.

[In the Shed]

Hey Jonty,
Yep there should be a thermostat there. It maybe that the motor was over heating and someone removed it to improve cooling? Keep up the good work, keen to see progress pics.
Regards
Stephen