Rebuilding and installing a front quarter window

[Rusty EK]

Thanks Stewart , brilliant

[ekdave1962]

the only thing i found hand when i did mine was not to fasten the 1/4 window until you have feed the main window in much easier to get it in the tracks with the 1/4 window tilted back to start feeding glass into runners ,, then fasten 1/4 window

David

[parisian62]

Hi David

Thanks for that tip - that will come in handy for the main window glass.

Stewart

[Finny]

Great stuff.
I looked up the workshop manual on this but it left a few areas unclear.
The biggest issue was how to get the bottom nut off.
I had previously read that they are crushed on. which is why they are a real pain.
I was going to soak, but when you said cut it off and use a locknut to replace it, I thought Wonderful...........

I'll get the frames and actually try your process.
I did notice that mine don't have the top metal cover plates. I hope I haven't lost them.

One question Would it have been better to finish painting that plate before putting it back together?
I assume it was still just undercoated ?

[parisian62]

Hi Finny,

I assume it was still just undercoated

It looks like undercoat but the plate was in final paint.

If you have to cut the nut at the bottom be careful not to cut through the actual pivot.

Good luck on finding that missing plate...I spent many hours chasing around the garage looking for parts...

regards
Stewart

[Finny]

I thought that might have been the case after I posted the message.

Unfortunately I have looked back at my early photos and have come to the conclusion that the car didn't have the top covers over the quarter windows when I got the car.

Maybe my parts car will come in handy yet again......

[mph]

Hi Mate,
Thanks for the good write up
Im doing the q windows atm and was wondering if you replaced the other rubber on the vent window the one on the back side the of baily channel.

Edit, i took a pic of the rubber so left to right is the frame then steel insert with old perished rubber on it then new rubber then glass and frame.
so the back of the new rubber doesnt seem to fit over or be the correct shape to fit over the steel insert, do you discard the old steel insert and glue the new rubber staight to the actual frame.

[puddes]

Hi Stewart.

This would have been a great post for me to read before I started the quarter vent windows.

Spindle 1jpg.jpg (1.04 MiB) Viewed 1719 times

Alas, I didn't think to look and hence the reason why I broke the lower pivot spindle on the second window yesterday.

So I thought I would share what I did next as I am not sure what others have done by way of fixes.

I called around and took the window to a local welder. He managed to weld another bolt on to the broken spindle by creating a 'v' in one end, and an 'arrow head' in the other. I understand that the join will not be as strong but I am pretty happy with the end result for the time being. Of course the only measure of success will come when I put the new spindle to the test when I reassemble the window tomorrow. A careful eye will see that I already have a problem as the new thread appears to be slightly larger and not quite the same shape. The nut doesn't notice a difference but the vent stop is going to take some convincing before it finds its way back to its old home...

Spindle 2.jpg (581.62 KiB) Viewed 1719 times

One question I had is what paint have others used on the bailey channel? There are too many versions of black (phantom, evoke, ebony, black metallic, matt, gloss) at SuperCheap for my liking.

Cheers

Wayne

[puddes]

Just for the record, the repaired thread seems to be working so far. I am not sure if I got the vent stop right (and it's too late now) but so far the repaired thread seems to be holding up well but time will tell. Happy with the result.

IMG_0162[1].jpg (1012.62 KiB) Viewed 1697 times

Couple of questions for those that might have recently been there, done that. In fitting the outer door rubber I found that the new rubber does not have a square corner like the older original rubber, which leaves a gap in the top corner. (I should have taken a blurry photo as my finished job on the door rubber is a little 'wobbly' in spots.)

IMG_0211.jpg (631.64 KiB) Viewed 1697 times

Have others experienced the same problem? I was thinking of cutting a corner piece and glueing it in place but I thought I might see what others have done.

I was also surprised that the outer doorbelt doesn't have the same profile as the inner belt and so I have a gap between the rubber on the quarter vent and the new door belt.

IMG_0216.jpg (503.63 KiB) Viewed 1697 times

Has anyone else had the same experience and if so, what sort of fixes have you tried.

[Errol62]

Hey puddles
The door belt channels should be bent to match the opening ( carefully with pliers) so they sit either side of the front bailey upright.
Door rubbers I used were just a simple extrusion apostrophe profile like yours.
Cheers
Clay


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[puddes]

Thanks Clay.

So you didn't do an adjustment on the corner to make it a little more watertight?

Thanks for the advice on the door belt. I probably followed the rare spares shed talk video too closely and should have made the adjustment to the door belt when I realised what was happening. It seemed odd to me that the rare spares belts would be purposely shaped for the inside belt but not the outside. Rookie mistake by me.

Having said that, while an adjustment with the pliers would have ensured that the profile of the belt followed the contour of the door where it meets the front bailey upright, I didn't cut the door belt's length and so I would have still been left with a gap between where the belt finished and where the rubber on the quarter vent started. That is, the outer belt is shorter than the inner belt. I am thinking the rare spares belts are not quite right?

Cheers

Wayne

[Errol62]

I just went and bought continuous lengths of the door belt, rigid and flexible bailey and cut to length and shaped to fit. Bit late for you perhaps. Available at various outlets. Got mine from Fitch the Rubber Man in Adelaide.
No adjustment to the seal corner was necessary. The main concern here is the front door edge pulling the seal out when opening and closing as they don't have the attached gasket that fits under the guard like the originals.


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[Errol62]

I’m at this stage of my rebuild and using a pair of quarter vents I rebuilt many years ago for another car. At the time I didn’t need to replace the rear seal but now do. It seems to be the go to remove the old metal backed seal and just glue in the new part. Any comments please?

Couple of things to add:

I didn’t find it necessary to remove the rivets and take of the frame to replace the main seal. Simply bend and stretch the frame until the top pivot can be popped out, replace seal, reinstall window and straighten frame.

Regarding the upright paint colour, I reckon it should be satin clinker grey to match dash and not stand out. I had just enough residue left in the bottom of a tin to paint with a watercolour type brush, after forgetting and using most of it up on the grille blackouts.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Clay


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[62ekute]

Hi Clay, I came and read this thread before I started and noticed that the question about the old upright seal had been asked before but couldn't find an answer...so I can only tell you that I stared at the gap between the glass and frame for a while and yep, I removed the old one on mine. Patrick

[Harv]

It seems to be the go to remove the old metal backed seal and just glue in the new part. Any comments please

That's how I did my three.

Cheers,
Harv