which welder?

matches · Post by **matches** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:40 pm

i'm looking for my first mig welder. i've found two that i don't mind the sound of but am wondering if anyone has some positive/ negative experience with either of them.
the first is a cigweld transmig 135,
the second is a unimig panther 120.
i'm only wanting something big enough for panelwork, and my budget is only $650-$800 max.
any info on these or other good welders you guys have had around that price range would be great.
L&K

oldnek · Post by **oldnek** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 1:09 am

Matches, I have a unimig 210, I had it for 9 years now and use her practically everyday. The machine hasn't give me a ounce of trouble, just the transformer cooling fan bearing is on its way out.
Personally!
I would recommend you stick with a higher amperage unit, 190 to 240. It may cost you a couple of hundred more now than your budget, but will pay for itself in the long run, at least then you won't be limited to only sheet and body steel welding. Duty cycle time won't be an issue (welder cuts out due to heat and excess current burn time) for continuous high current welds as opposed to a smaller unit.

I had a cigweld 135 before the unimig, fantastic for light gauge work, but crank her up and start welding 3 to 4mm steel for brackets, the machine would overload and cut out untill it cools down again.
Hare and Forbes do the unimig 240 for $1250 or maybe even cheaper now. Google them and find out.

John

parisian62 · Post by **parisian62** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:07 am

Hi Matches,

Have a look here http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... ght=welder for similar discussion. Contained within that thread are further links.

We're using a cigweld 135 for all my wagon work and have had no problems. If I'd had the $$$ I might have bought a bigger amp unit but for what I needed the cigweld 135 is fine.

regards
Stewart

matches · Post by **matches** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:04 am

thanks guys. i only need it for light stuff as i also have a small and large stick that is awesome for frames ect.

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:07 am

Hi Matches,
I'm in no position to profess - I can't weld properly, but do better with the MIG than an arc..... but with the machine I have - can just about make a decent weld..... if not, after 1 - 2 grinds/re-welds......

I did a TAFE course with the view of getting some practical instruction on how to weld panels/chassis etc and at the end of the 6 weeks was in a much better position to make a choice.... although I understand many people are quite skilled with smaller/more restrictive units - I was advised to go with a machine which had multiple settings.

The unit I have is a TransMig 215 - it has four coarse and four fine settngs.... a total of 16 combinations.
The literature states it can weld down to 1.6 mm but I have found this quite difficult without the usual burns or "cocky crap"......
It can handle up to 6 mm - but I do not know the duty cycle - or can't remember -

Price - was around the $900 ish (with bottle and fittings) but this was quite a few years ago..... maybe 7 or 8......

I have not had one ounce of trouble with the machine - have had some problems with my abuse of it (un-intentional) with blocking tips and jamming wire - but these were entirely my fault.....

I would recommend this unit to anyone - and might suggest as John does, that for a marginal higher cost - a machine capable of 4/5 mm is going to handle anything you are likely to need.

My suggestion - aim at one with multiple settings..... the local hardware stores have budget priced MIG's with only High/Low and Coarse/Fine settings (4 combinations) ..... may be OK if you are very capable or just "fluke" getting the setting for the job at hand......

frats,
Rosco

Aussy Edo · Post by **Aussy Edo** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:07 pm

Hey mate,in my opinion,the boys are right when they say go for the biggest u can afford so your duty cycle is more usefull but if you are only spot welding panels and you have a decent stick welder for bigger jobs then the duty cycle wont be of great concern because you are not continously welding.If it were me i would be going for the cig weld machine,slightly better amperage and i would say probably easier and cheaper on consumables like tips and liners.ive got an ESAB which ive found to be spot on,opinions are like arseholes,everyone has got one!!,so go with what you can afford,both machines will do panels easily,i was using a uni-mig at work for a while before chrissy and didnt like it but it was more a case of wrong tool for the job at hand.hope this helps mate

matches · Post by **matches** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:31 pm

any opinion is good, its an opinion. by other peoples experience i can look at it with open eyes.

matches · Post by **matches** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:48 pm

well, i've gone out and bought the cigweld 135. i looked into the bigger ones but decided that the 135 was all that i needed. it works great. even did a nice weld straight out of the box

now i can get into the car a bit more

thanks for the advice/ comments.
L&K

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:30 am

At the end of the day - if you are making good welds and it's handling everything you put it to..... good choice - look forward to seeing your output..

frats,
Rosco

matches · Post by **matches** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:07 pm

thanks rosco. i'll keep everyone posted.
L&K

vmx-mxr · Post by **vmx-mxr** » Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:30 pm

Thanks for the input guys.

I picked up a Kemppi 150 Amp that should keep me out of trouble once I pick it up. The thing won't know what hit it !!!

Dave Mac

EKjimmy · Post by **EKjimmy** » Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:39 pm

Matches, there's another thread on this in body paint and panel
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9842
might have a bit more info for you
Jimmy