Quarter vent pillar seal help me Rosco
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Craig
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:16 pm
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- Location: Fear and Loathing in Brisvegas
Quarter vent pillar seal help me Rosco
Hi Rosco (or any one else that can help) I read one of your old posts that said you had some inside information on fitting the seal to the post on the quarter vent I am trying to fit a rares one at the moment asd it looks like you just glue it on is this right?
Thanks
Thanks
Better dead than red
EK, the VN of the 60s
EK, the VN of the 60s
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parisian62
- Posts: 3997
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 2:19 pm
- State: NSW
- Location: Sydney
- Contact:
Hi Craig,
The original rubber seal on the upright post for the quarter window was backed by a steel strip that had 'teeth' that clipped into the post. When I fitted new rares rubbers a couple of years ago I was told to remove the steel strip with 'teeth' and glue the new rubber straight to the upright post.
regards
Stewart
The original rubber seal on the upright post for the quarter window was backed by a steel strip that had 'teeth' that clipped into the post. When I fitted new rares rubbers a couple of years ago I was told to remove the steel strip with 'teeth' and glue the new rubber straight to the upright post.
regards
Stewart
Feelin free in a '61 FB.
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
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parisian62
- Posts: 3997
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 2:19 pm
- State: NSW
- Location: Sydney
- Contact:
Hi Austmod,
I wouldn't say it hard its just that you have to pull the entire quarter window out of the door to do the job properly. Did the drivers side a few years back.
Check out this post for some pics and advice.
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=438
Be very careful when removing the assembly from the door as it easy to scratch paint (this bit is the most fiddly) and try and remember at what angle you removed it so you can repeat it when you re-install. Also at the base of the qaurter window is a bolt that it pivots on. Tou need to remove the nut and washers to be able to remove the glass so you can install the new rubber. The nut is usually rusted on. Be very careful - do not force as you can snap the bolt rendering the whole assembly useless.
Also have you got a Owners manual...its all explained in that step by step...
regards
Stewart
I wouldn't say it hard its just that you have to pull the entire quarter window out of the door to do the job properly. Did the drivers side a few years back.
Check out this post for some pics and advice.
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=438
Be very careful when removing the assembly from the door as it easy to scratch paint (this bit is the most fiddly) and try and remember at what angle you removed it so you can repeat it when you re-install. Also at the base of the qaurter window is a bolt that it pivots on. Tou need to remove the nut and washers to be able to remove the glass so you can install the new rubber. The nut is usually rusted on. Be very careful - do not force as you can snap the bolt rendering the whole assembly useless.
Also have you got a Owners manual...its all explained in that step by step...
regards
Stewart
Feelin free in a '61 FB.
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
Member of FB-EK Holden Car Club Of NSW Inc.
Check out the Rebuild of Old Timer
1/4 vent pillar seal
Hi Craig,
do you still need my article - I wrote it some time back, but to date my seals are as fitted...................
If you have your 1/4 window out already, you won't need half of my post.
Make sure you remember to fit those angled covers prior to re-fitting the 1/4 assembly - I didn't the first time and had to pull it out again.......
To get it out - it has to "pivot forwards from the top front corner - make sure to remove the vent lever/lock - of course you side window has to come out first.
You may wish to take a peek inside - fishoil is good for re-sealing the deadener.
I can make a small job like this take a month -
The seal has to be "worked" on at about two inches at a time - of course all surfaces must be absolutely spotless.......
Yes, the original metal retainer is discarded.
The replacement seal is adhered directly to the bailey channel frame.
It must go in so that the glass will compress the seal - I think that's the best way of getting you to "find" the correct orientation - it's a funnly looking little seal - didn't make any sense to me at all until I spoke with the Tech at Rare's for 30 minutes............
You use a small block of wood to hold the seal in place whilst the cyano acrylate sets then work the next section until done - don't bunch or stretch the seal as you work - just press it down firmly.
I fitted my 1/4 vent assy in a vice whilst fitting it.
You may wish to "treat" the pivots and spring/washer etc whilst you have them in your hands......
Be mindful to re-fit the "cam" correctly - it will only work in the correct orientatation..........
I'll post you that article if you send me an email - I cannot, as yet, attach anything on this site............. but learning..
frats,
Rosco
do you still need my article - I wrote it some time back, but to date my seals are as fitted...................
If you have your 1/4 window out already, you won't need half of my post.
Make sure you remember to fit those angled covers prior to re-fitting the 1/4 assembly - I didn't the first time and had to pull it out again.......
To get it out - it has to "pivot forwards from the top front corner - make sure to remove the vent lever/lock - of course you side window has to come out first.
You may wish to take a peek inside - fishoil is good for re-sealing the deadener.
I can make a small job like this take a month -
The seal has to be "worked" on at about two inches at a time - of course all surfaces must be absolutely spotless.......
Yes, the original metal retainer is discarded.
The replacement seal is adhered directly to the bailey channel frame.
It must go in so that the glass will compress the seal - I think that's the best way of getting you to "find" the correct orientation - it's a funnly looking little seal - didn't make any sense to me at all until I spoke with the Tech at Rare's for 30 minutes............
You use a small block of wood to hold the seal in place whilst the cyano acrylate sets then work the next section until done - don't bunch or stretch the seal as you work - just press it down firmly.
I fitted my 1/4 vent assy in a vice whilst fitting it.
You may wish to "treat" the pivots and spring/washer etc whilst you have them in your hands......
Be mindful to re-fit the "cam" correctly - it will only work in the correct orientatation..........
I'll post you that article if you send me an email - I cannot, as yet, attach anything on this site............. but learning..
frats,
Rosco
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Craig
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:16 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Fear and Loathing in Brisvegas
Thanks for the reply rosco as usuall very descriptive I have now done both sides and am doing baily channels and door belts at the same time I was taking photos in the hope of posting a how to untill I dropped my camera and it is now in pieces
guess it was time for an upgrade anyway door seals will be next started scrapping the old ones out a couple of months ago and gave up in frustration
cheers
cheers
Better dead than red
EK, the VN of the 60s
EK, the VN of the 60s
camera
Bugger!
- guess that means we'll be getting some "sharper" pix from now on, Craig....
frats,
Rosco
ps sorry I didn't get an answer to you earlier - had to get up early (usual) this morning............ my bed-time is mainly around 20:30 - 21:00 - have a lot of trouble staying up after 22:00................
- guess that means we'll be getting some "sharper" pix from now on, Craig....
frats,
Rosco
ps sorry I didn't get an answer to you earlier - had to get up early (usual) this morning............ my bed-time is mainly around 20:30 - 21:00 - have a lot of trouble staying up after 22:00................
