grey motor
grey motor
a bit of thinking out aloud just seeing if or what is about looking for good running grey motor would like atleast twin carbs and or extractors/headers would prefer a hotty and prefer even more a fresh built with proof, also with steel or alloy timing gear
east coast and go from there i'm at coffs
think that about covers it
thanks
east coast and go from there i'm at coffs
think that about covers it
thanks
sometimes yor just better off shitting in yor hands and clapping
W.S.C.C.A
Woodstock chapter
W.S.C.C.A
Woodstock chapter
Re: grey motor
you going to the dark side Mick ???
When you're faced with an unpleasant task that you really don't want to do, sometimes you just have to dig deep down inside and somehow find the patience to wait for someone else to do it for you.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: grey motor
G'day Mick,
I can't sell you a runner, but I could loan you one. My grey motor test-mule is sitting on an engine stand in Sydney. Can loan you the motor, plus a set of rebuilt twins/triples on a manifold, plus a set of Myers headers or 4-1 extractors. Has a crashbox behind it. You can borrow it as long as you need it, though would need it back eventually.
Not sure if it helps.
Have also got a fair few motors here that suit rebuild, though are siezed. Can give you one of those if it helps.
Cheers,
Harv
I can't sell you a runner, but I could loan you one. My grey motor test-mule is sitting on an engine stand in Sydney. Can loan you the motor, plus a set of rebuilt twins/triples on a manifold, plus a set of Myers headers or 4-1 extractors. Has a crashbox behind it. You can borrow it as long as you need it, though would need it back eventually.
Not sure if it helps.
Have also got a fair few motors here that suit rebuild, though are siezed. Can give you one of those if it helps.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: grey motor
i think i have become a restorer blacky
i bought a pretty good ute has 186 disc brakes etc but only grey crash box, i haven't heard the motor running and the ute is unreg and it is such a pain and expensive to engineer a car over here now even with just a 186 and if i engineer it i might aswell change the gearbox which means doing the practically irreversable floor hump change, and as i only want to do club rego i wonder if it is worth the cost/hassle to engineer it that or i take the risk of doing shonky club rego so a grey has crossed my mind, though i'm scared of the timing gears in them
thanks harv that's very generous but i only really want to change the engine once (i don't even really want to change it ) and the cost of building an engine is outrageous
i bought a pretty good ute has 186 disc brakes etc but only grey crash box, i haven't heard the motor running and the ute is unreg and it is such a pain and expensive to engineer a car over here now even with just a 186 and if i engineer it i might aswell change the gearbox which means doing the practically irreversable floor hump change, and as i only want to do club rego i wonder if it is worth the cost/hassle to engineer it that or i take the risk of doing shonky club rego so a grey has crossed my mind, though i'm scared of the timing gears in them
thanks harv that's very generous but i only really want to change the engine once (i don't even really want to change it ) and the cost of building an engine is outrageous
sometimes yor just better off shitting in yor hands and clapping
W.S.C.C.A
Woodstock chapter
W.S.C.C.A
Woodstock chapter
Re: grey motor
What about a 138 red from a torana mick? Must be a few around. Surely that wouldn't require engineering.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: grey motor
What what I've found out lately 138 red needs engine mounts to be engineered because there basically red motor mounted different to the greys
EK JAY SINCE 1990
Re: grey motor
Hmm. Maybe grey front mount could be adapted?
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getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
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- Location: Brisbane
Re: grey motor
yeah i'm very confused and pissed off on the whole 138red and 149 thing as i've never had a problem registering one, but apparently now and suposedly has always been they go on increased POWER not increased cubic capacity which every engineers report i have ever had was based on capacity not power so 138 red and 149 are just as bad as 186, though i'm very tempted to do the 138 red or 149 and just play stupid
sometimes yor just better off shitting in yor hands and clapping
W.S.C.C.A
Woodstock chapter
W.S.C.C.A
Woodstock chapter
Re: grey motor
Hey Mick just paint the red motor grey and leave it at that no one that isn't in the know is going to really pick it they only ever glance over those sort of things maybe
Regards
Neil H
Regards
Neil H
Member of WA FB/EK Car Club
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Re: grey motor
when I put mine over the pit they didn't even lift the bonnet - checked the RWC - quick look around at lights and tyres and just said - nice car mate and handed me the slip - job done.
You will find me lost somewhere!
Re: grey motor
Hi Harv,Harv wrote:G'day Mick,
I can't sell you a runner, but I could loan you one. My grey motor test-mule is sitting on an engine stand in Sydney. Can loan you the motor, plus a set of rebuilt twins/triples on a manifold, plus a set of Myers headers or 4-1 extractors. Has a crashbox behind it. You can borrow it as long as you need it, though would need it back eventually.
Not sure if it helps.
Have also got a fair few motors here that suit rebuild, though are siezed. Can give you one of those if it helps.
Cheers,
Harv
I'm looking for a set of headers or extractors to suit my EK Ute, and was doing some searching to find out what are the best options, brands etc available for the grey.
Bought some twin carbs, so made sense to improve performance a little to compliment the Strommies.
Any suggestions on brand type or style would be appreciated. You sound like you've got the grey motor stuff well and truly covered.
Cheers,
Steve
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Re: grey motor
G'day Steve,
The type of exhaust you run depends a bit on your preference for looks. Don't expect a massive performance difference between the options.
At the "easy to do" end of the scale, you can buy an off-the-shelf set of headers. There are two types:
a) 4-2-1 headers (also known as interference headers) have primary pipes that join the secondaries in the firing order of the engine. This gives scavenging, better gas flow, and better power/torque at lower/mid range revs. These are best for most of us.
b) 4-1 headers (also known as equal length headers) are targeted at high rpm use. Not typically a road-going option, more for the speedway/drag/boat guys.
4-2-1 headers are available from mobs like Pacemaker (Pacemaker PH5004), or 4-1 headers from Hurricane (Hurricane HU209ST). From memory, the Redline Performance header (Redline RE209ST) is also 4-1. AFAIK, HM Headers does not do grey motor (they do lots of red motor stuff though). Expect to pay around $200-$350 for the above headers, plus some work to connect to the standard 'zaust pipe (or replace the pipe with larger).
You can equally make your own headers, or have a muffler shop do it for you. Can be cheap if you can weld well, or expensive via a muffler shop.
The alternative is to buy some cast headers (eg Speco or Jack Myers) via eBay or a forum ad. Expect to pay $400-$1200. These "look more correct" to the Period Correctness Police though.
All up, any of the options above will sound better than the standard 'zuast, and you might (just) be able to feel the difference driving. Won't turn the grey into a rocket sled though.
Cheers,
Harv
The type of exhaust you run depends a bit on your preference for looks. Don't expect a massive performance difference between the options.
At the "easy to do" end of the scale, you can buy an off-the-shelf set of headers. There are two types:
a) 4-2-1 headers (also known as interference headers) have primary pipes that join the secondaries in the firing order of the engine. This gives scavenging, better gas flow, and better power/torque at lower/mid range revs. These are best for most of us.
b) 4-1 headers (also known as equal length headers) are targeted at high rpm use. Not typically a road-going option, more for the speedway/drag/boat guys.
4-2-1 headers are available from mobs like Pacemaker (Pacemaker PH5004), or 4-1 headers from Hurricane (Hurricane HU209ST). From memory, the Redline Performance header (Redline RE209ST) is also 4-1. AFAIK, HM Headers does not do grey motor (they do lots of red motor stuff though). Expect to pay around $200-$350 for the above headers, plus some work to connect to the standard 'zaust pipe (or replace the pipe with larger).
You can equally make your own headers, or have a muffler shop do it for you. Can be cheap if you can weld well, or expensive via a muffler shop.
The alternative is to buy some cast headers (eg Speco or Jack Myers) via eBay or a forum ad. Expect to pay $400-$1200. These "look more correct" to the Period Correctness Police though.
All up, any of the options above will sound better than the standard 'zuast, and you might (just) be able to feel the difference driving. Won't turn the grey into a rocket sled though.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: grey motor
Headers look better but cost more. Jack Myres headers ( The most common ) go for $600-1000
Aussie Speed make some there pretty good I have a set build quality is good: http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/holden-g ... ussiespeed
Aussie Speed make some there pretty good I have a set build quality is good: http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/holden-g ... ussiespeed
Re: grey motor
Thank you Harv, appreciate the feedback and advice mate.Harv wrote:G'day Steve,
The type of exhaust you run depends a bit on your preference for looks. Don't expect a massive performance difference between the options.
At the "easy to do" end of the scale, you can buy an off-the-shelf set of headers. There are two types:
a) 4-2-1 headers (also known as interference headers) have primary pipes that join the secondaries in the firing order of the engine. This gives scavenging, better gas flow, and better power/torque at lower/mid range revs. These are best for most of us.
b) 4-1 headers (also known as equal length headers) are targeted at high rpm use. Not typically a road-going option, more for the speedway/drag/boat guys.
4-2-1 headers are available from mobs like Pacemaker (Pacemaker PH5004), or 4-1 headers from Hurricane (Hurricane HU209ST). From memory, the Redline Performance header (Redline RE209ST) is also 4-1. AFAIK, HM Headers does not do grey motor (they do lots of red motor stuff though). Expect to pay around $200-$350 for the above headers, plus some work to connect to the standard 'zaust pipe (or replace the pipe with larger).
You can equally make your own headers, or have a muffler shop do it for you. Can be cheap if you can weld well, or expensive via a muffler shop.
The alternative is to buy some cast headers (eg Speco or Jack Myers) via eBay or a forum ad. Expect to pay $400-$1200. These "look more correct" to the Period Correctness Police though.
All up, any of the options above will sound better than the standard 'zuast, and you might (just) be able to feel the difference driving. Won't turn the grey into a rocket sled though.
Cheers,
Harv
Short
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